Engine won't start after swap,, please someone help
#31
Try a new set of plugs. If youv contaminated them with excessive fuel they may be no good now. If the pipes were wrong way perhaps a small amount of fuel was finding it's way to the rail but not enough to allow it to run.
#33
No fuel was put in when car was drove to workshop..
If u connect fuel lines wrong way so it builds up and doesn't put any fuel in the rail the car will try and fire up on the fuel that is left in chamber etc,, actually coughs and kicks..
But put fuel pipes on the rail the right way I'm basically drowning them and it won't fire
So what causes this?
If u connect fuel lines wrong way so it builds up and doesn't put any fuel in the rail the car will try and fire up on the fuel that is left in chamber etc,, actually coughs and kicks..
But put fuel pipes on the rail the right way I'm basically drowning them and it won't fire
So what causes this?
#35
Iv also checked the ones marks on cam sprockets all seem in same place as old engine when turning the crank over by hand
So what's causing my car to cough when fuel is not going into the rail
But as soon as its all plumbed the right way it won't fire but just floods the engine with fuel ?
So what's causing my car to cough when fuel is not going into the rail
But as soon as its all plumbed the right way it won't fire but just floods the engine with fuel ?
#36
Iv also checked the ones marks on cam sprockets all seem in same place as old engine when turning the crank over by hand
So what's causing my car to cough when fuel is not going into the rail
But as soon as its all plumbed the right way it won't fire but just floods the engine with fuel ?
So what's causing my car to cough when fuel is not going into the rail
But as soon as its all plumbed the right way it won't fire but just floods the engine with fuel ?
#37
I removed the delivery pipe to the rail into a bottle( didnt knoe how stop pump)
cranked it over and then it proper started to cough like it was trying,,(never got to sound like this so far) but then overly just cranked over as no fuel was going to injectors as it was just trying to start on the fuel left in the engine,,
Iv removed plugs now and dry them and refitted
But I'm pretty sure if I refit fuel line to the rail It will just end up flooding and still not firing
Seems like its getting to much fuel to me,,
cranked it over and then it proper started to cough like it was trying,,(never got to sound like this so far) but then overly just cranked over as no fuel was going to injectors as it was just trying to start on the fuel left in the engine,,
Iv removed plugs now and dry them and refitted
But I'm pretty sure if I refit fuel line to the rail It will just end up flooding and still not firing
Seems like its getting to much fuel to me,,
#39
Mate I'm feeling for you on this one now. Maybe it's time to have a mobile mechanic out to it or even see if anyone on here local to you will spare you a bit of time and pop over and help, it's amazing what an offered case of beer will get you. Put the offer out and ask, some good lads on here.
#41
All 4 injector plugs r same colour,,(grey) I can only tell apart because of colour wires going into the plug,, I have the same colour wires going to plugs on front and same again with plugs going onto to back injectors.. I will swap them around tho as worth a try
#46
No I'm going to do later,,or tomorrow,, il not be happy if its knackered seeing as was ment be running from a member off here,,sounds like compression on it as feel it coming out plugs when removed when turning crank by hand,,also out intake pipe when plugs are in and filter off
#47
While the plugs are out also out check for spark out of all leads & see if fuel mists out of the plug holes while cranking to ensure it's injecting fuel.(make sure no sources of ignition while doing this as fire hazard)
Last edited by RICHARD J; 17 April 2013 at 11:24 AM.
#48
I removed the leads last night to double check for spark,,could only do drivers side as couldn't see the other side while cranking,, they sparked but seemed abit yellow rather than blue?
Surly I'm getting fuel as every time I remove plugs if a flick them u can see specs of fuel that have come off the plugs, and I have fuel coming into rail from filter
Surly I'm getting fuel as every time I remove plugs if a flick them u can see specs of fuel that have come off the plugs, and I have fuel coming into rail from filter
#49
I removed the leads last night to double check for spark,,could only do drivers side as couldn't see the other side while cranking,, they sparked but seemed abit yellow rather than blue?
Surly I'm getting fuel as every time I remove plugs if a flick them u can see specs of fuel that have come off the plugs, and I have fuel coming into rail from filter
Surly I'm getting fuel as every time I remove plugs if a flick them u can see specs of fuel that have come off the plugs, and I have fuel coming into rail from filter
#51
for a start the fuel filter hose ( feed hose ) should go in the top most port of the 3 on the manifold
return should be in the middle port
tank vent ( smaller pipe ) should be on the bottom
clean the plugs ( ALL 4 ! ) properly
also to note the injectors must be sealed correctly , if using the old seals upon priming what can happen is the bottom seal inside the injector seat on the manifold can leak fuel straight past into the bore rather than using the injector to control fuel distribution , so you will have 3 bar of fuel going straight in there rather than intermitently pulsing through the injector
you say you have changed a lot , my bet is that the fuel pipes were on incorectly at one point and also the injectors are NOT seated correctly and hence the problems you are encountering
my advise would be as above:
make sure fuel lines are as i said
fit new injector seals
clean the plugs correctly and gap to 0.65
if problem persists check fuel pressure as u may have a seized fpr
return should be in the middle port
tank vent ( smaller pipe ) should be on the bottom
clean the plugs ( ALL 4 ! ) properly
also to note the injectors must be sealed correctly , if using the old seals upon priming what can happen is the bottom seal inside the injector seat on the manifold can leak fuel straight past into the bore rather than using the injector to control fuel distribution , so you will have 3 bar of fuel going straight in there rather than intermitently pulsing through the injector
you say you have changed a lot , my bet is that the fuel pipes were on incorectly at one point and also the injectors are NOT seated correctly and hence the problems you are encountering
my advise would be as above:
make sure fuel lines are as i said
fit new injector seals
clean the plugs correctly and gap to 0.65
if problem persists check fuel pressure as u may have a seized fpr
#52
Thank u for that,, fuel pipes r the right way on,,
As for injectors, the rail was removed to paint the inlet manifold,,
Do u mean the rubber seal that sits in the manifold? (This area was all taped up while painting painted) or is there a seal on the bottom of the injector itself?
By when putting it back together they seemed to push in the seal in the manifold before fitting the bolts on the rail
As for injectors, the rail was removed to paint the inlet manifold,,
Do u mean the rubber seal that sits in the manifold? (This area was all taped up while painting painted) or is there a seal on the bottom of the injector itself?
By when putting it back together they seemed to push in the seal in the manifold before fitting the bolts on the rail
#53
all the seals , manifold ones and internal ones
reason im sayin is ive had this issue before a few times , once was a stuck fpr ( closed ) and other time was botton injector seal ( inside the rail ) was leaking , causing fuel to go direct into the bore rather than through the injector , was spitting it out the exhaust too
reason im sayin is ive had this issue before a few times , once was a stuck fpr ( closed ) and other time was botton injector seal ( inside the rail ) was leaking , causing fuel to go direct into the bore rather than through the injector , was spitting it out the exhaust too
#54
Ok thank u for that information,, the injectors was pulled out but not apart from the rail so possibly bottom o ring seal off the injector,
, should the injectors just push in the inlet manifold and kinda pop in to stay in place, then the bolts for the rail
, should the injectors just push in the inlet manifold and kinda pop in to stay in place, then the bolts for the rail
#55
yes
if the injectors were fine in ur old car ( and it is indeed your injectors and not other ones ) and they have not been disturbed from there rails then they should be ok
the manifold o rings maybe give them a coat of vaseline , this will help seal them , just remove them then smear it round them and put them back in , otherwise buy new ones
if the injectors were fine in ur old car ( and it is indeed your injectors and not other ones ) and they have not been disturbed from there rails then they should be ok
the manifold o rings maybe give them a coat of vaseline , this will help seal them , just remove them then smear it round them and put them back in , otherwise buy new ones
#56
Yes the injectors was not removed from the rail,, the rail was removed from the manifold with injectors still connected
I will try the Vaseline around the manifold seals,, would this really stop it firing tho?
I'm only asking as unsure,,
I will try the Vaseline around the manifold seals,, would this really stop it firing tho?
I'm only asking as unsure,,
#57
Have you tried disconnecting the fuel system entirely, then spraying cold start or carb cleaner into the intake and seeing if she runs? If runs fine like that then you definitely know you've got a fueling issue.
#58
Right be in garage,, the checked time timming etc and all fine,, but still won't start,, there have said that there is whisp of smoke coming out the intake pipe?
They have said that to cause that would be
Timming ( which they checked)
Or valve trouble
To be honest iv had a gut full now and very pissed off or someone selling a engine that clearly is not running!! And has internal problems!
They have said that to cause that would be
Timming ( which they checked)
Or valve trouble
To be honest iv had a gut full now and very pissed off or someone selling a engine that clearly is not running!! And has internal problems!
#59
Really gutted for you mate. By a wisp of smoke coming out of the intake I take it they've done a leak down test with smoke? Surely they would have done compression test before this? If poor compression with correct timing must be valve, gasket or piston rings?