Letting subaru warm up before driving from cold-advice
#33
We all may laugh, but some no brain will quote that as actual fact, now that it has been put in B&W on an internet forum!
#34
start up and drive of slowly and off boost,this warms the engine and box quickly.
sitting idling is a pointless fuel wasting exercise.
water temp means **** all, its oil temp thats important and mine takes a fair few miles to get to running temp.
sitting idling is a pointless fuel wasting exercise.
water temp means **** all, its oil temp thats important and mine takes a fair few miles to get to running temp.
#35
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From: Enginetuner.co.uk Plymouth Dyno Dynamics RR Engine machining and building EcuTek SimTek mapping
Are none of you guys married?
Get going right away before she changes her mind, but stroke her gently until she warms up.
It's simple really.
Get going right away before she changes her mind, but stroke her gently until she warms up.
It's simple really.
#36
#37
#38
It isn't just the engine oil that needs warming up. Just because the water guage is up to nominal, doesn't mean diff/gearbox is. Brakes too. More than one of my friends has been caught out by brakes not being up to temp
Paul
#39
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From: Enginetuner.co.uk Plymouth Dyno Dynamics RR Engine machining and building EcuTek SimTek mapping
#40
F*ck me aye it's a subaru, its a performance car but its just a car!! People are making out the engines gonna shat its internals down the street by driving off 30 secs too early.
Use the correct oil, keep it clean, keep it at the correct level, use a genuine filter, change it more often than recommended if your like me and stop worrying lol.
Mick
#41
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From: The hell where youth and laughter go
Forget about the cold brakes...all those people driving round on track day pads that are never up to temperature during road driving. A milk float probably could stop quicker
Me? I just get in and drive.
There maybe a 15 to 20 second state of idle whilst I shut the garage door but that's the most of it.
But here's the rub: I live by a busy junction and at rush hour the only way to pull out into the stream of traffic is by giving it some beans. So yes, almost every morning involves a 0-40mph in 4 seconds launch (on a quiet day ). I've done this on every car I have ever owned. And put it this way none of them have ever had a problem with doing that.
Make of that what you will.
Me? I just get in and drive.
There maybe a 15 to 20 second state of idle whilst I shut the garage door but that's the most of it.
But here's the rub: I live by a busy junction and at rush hour the only way to pull out into the stream of traffic is by giving it some beans. So yes, almost every morning involves a 0-40mph in 4 seconds launch (on a quiet day ). I've done this on every car I have ever owned. And put it this way none of them have ever had a problem with doing that.
Make of that what you will.
Last edited by ALi-B; 30 April 2013 at 11:22 PM.
#42
#43
i always put on tyre warmers for 15 mins,then warm brakes over with a hairdryer, let engine idle for 15 to 20 mins then drive under 1000 rpm for at least 2 hours.
anything else and the car will blow up............
anything else and the car will blow up............
#45
Sorry like but I don't get the point of this statement lol, surely the gearbox warms up in the time the engine oils warming up, I doubt there's many that need to ram through all the gears as quick as possible whilst driving round under 3k revs???
F*ck me aye it's a subaru, its a performance car but its just a car!! People are making out the engines gonna shat its internals down the street by driving off 30 secs too early.
Use the correct oil, keep it clean, keep it at the correct level, use a genuine filter, change it more often than recommended if your like me and stop worrying lol.
Mick
F*ck me aye it's a subaru, its a performance car but its just a car!! People are making out the engines gonna shat its internals down the street by driving off 30 secs too early.
Use the correct oil, keep it clean, keep it at the correct level, use a genuine filter, change it more often than recommended if your like me and stop worrying lol.
Mick
And as for the brakes, I do know people who run high temp pads on their road/TD cars but most of the people I know who've been caught out are bikers granted
Paul
#47
Well on my hawk sti on starting from cold itll idle for about 10secs at 1k rpm it then increases idle to around 1.5k rpm and thats when i drive off gentle warm up driving a few miles before any enthusiastic driving
#48
All I meant was some people assume that if the engine is up to temperature then the whole car is. This isn't necessarily the case.
And as for the brakes, I do know people who run high temp pads on their road/TD cars but most of the people I know who've been caught out are bikers granted
Paul
And as for the brakes, I do know people who run high temp pads on their road/TD cars but most of the people I know who've been caught out are bikers granted
Paul
I'm a biker also but I usually concentrate on not falling off on my way off the drive instead of worrying about brakes lol
Mick
#49
Tbh mate I was talking more about gearbox oil from the post above yours but I must have used the quote thing wrong lol, I never even give my brakes a thought tbh although I hate the red stuff pads.
I'm a biker also but I usually concentrate on not falling off on my way off the drive instead of worrying about brakes lol
Mick
I'm a biker also but I usually concentrate on not falling off on my way off the drive instead of worrying about brakes lol
Mick
I also have to do the "remember Paul, the clutch is on the left hand" check when I get on the bike
Anyhoo, back to original thread, just get in it and drive slowly till it's ALL warm through
#51
#53
Start it, rev it to 4000rpm to blow the cobwebs out, then rev to 5000rpm in every gear to make sure the gearbox and engine oil get nice and warm quickly, which takes about 1 mile, then bounce it off the rev limiter till I get to my destination.
**** it, it's only money, someone has to keep the subaru tuning scene alive, there is a whole industry full of mechanics that have to feed their kids and send them to university depending on us, don't be selfish, when it blows up use the opportunity to get more power and blow it up sooner.
Sit's back and waits for gratuities from tuners.
**** it, it's only money, someone has to keep the subaru tuning scene alive, there is a whole industry full of mechanics that have to feed their kids and send them to university depending on us, don't be selfish, when it blows up use the opportunity to get more power and blow it up sooner.
Sit's back and waits for gratuities from tuners.
#54
#55
#58
I'm fully aware that oil takes longer to warm than water to protect the engine effectively, I don't need gauges to tell me that.
My question was what is the general consensus of time for oil to warm up. For instance using a 10-40 grade in normal outside temp weather. No need to get clever.
My question was what is the general consensus of time for oil to warm up. For instance using a 10-40 grade in normal outside temp weather. No need to get clever.
For what it's worth, I have both oil and water gauges, and starting up and driving off straight away while keeping it off boost and under 3k until fully warm gives me almost exactly twice as long to the second for the oil temp to come up to 80C (which is where I like it to get to before giving if it real boost) as it does for the OEM water gauge to reach its normal operating temp.
At the point when the water gauge is showing normal op temp the oil temps are still off the bottom of the defi oil gauge range (starts at 50C)
Everyone's car is different obviously, but that would be a reasonable guide IMHO - keep an eye on how long it takes the water temp to get to normal and double it - should see you fine.
HTH
FB
PS Alan
"Are none of you guys married?
Get going right away before she changes her mind, but stroke her gently until she warms up.
It's simple really."
Not a bad theory, but it takes my car at least 7+ minutes to warm up, which is not only approximately 4 years quicker than the wife takes, but would also represent nearly 3 goes by me and I'm not sure at my advanced age that the old ticker could take it.
Last edited by Fat Boy; 01 May 2013 at 10:13 AM.
#59
i dont let mine warm up, just get in it, use LC and AL to set off down the road and carry on in that mannor..... redline every gear... gets me to where im going quicker.....
I joke, i dont have LC and AL
But on a serious note, yes, i have always let my turbo'd cars warm up, generally for 30-60 seconds stationary, just while i belt up and fiddle about with the radio etc.... then drive it off boost/low revs for a few miles/ minutes, and then give it hell!
I joke, i dont have LC and AL
But on a serious note, yes, i have always let my turbo'd cars warm up, generally for 30-60 seconds stationary, just while i belt up and fiddle about with the radio etc.... then drive it off boost/low revs for a few miles/ minutes, and then give it hell!
#60
Here's a post I made 9 years ago. Defi gauges were used on a UK Classic Turbo.
Did a test on the way home from work this morning
@ 1.3 miles the car showed normal water temp.
@ 1.4 miles the oil gauge registered 50c
@ 2.0 miles the oil was 70c
@ 3.1 miles the oil was 80c
@ 5.4 miles the oil was 90c where i stays really unless i'm on the motorway or booting it. The most i've ever seen was 105c on a really hot day with the foot to the floor
This test was done in 30 and 40 limits under 3k and off boost
@ 1.3 miles the car showed normal water temp.
@ 1.4 miles the oil gauge registered 50c
@ 2.0 miles the oil was 70c
@ 3.1 miles the oil was 80c
@ 5.4 miles the oil was 90c where i stays really unless i'm on the motorway or booting it. The most i've ever seen was 105c on a really hot day with the foot to the floor
This test was done in 30 and 40 limits under 3k and off boost