Letting subaru warm up before driving from cold-advice
01 May 2013 | 10:25 AM
#61
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From: Harrogate
None of the above involved fannying around warming up for one second! I bought the car on 32k miles and sold it with 111k miles and the last I heard it was still going strong at 125k. It was running 313/300 with nothing more than a new clutch and radiator in it's life.
F1 cars need warming up, not a Japanese box of tin
F1 cars need warming up, not a Japanese box of tin
01 May 2013 | 11:50 AM
#62
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Most manufactures hand books advice is start up and move off straight away. They recommend not letting the engine idle for too long. My routine is. Start car, then put on seat belt, put on sun glasses, in gear hand brake off and go. That probably gives around 20 secs idle . If i'm waiting for the misses or kids it's a totally different story .
Sit there for 5 mins, decide they aren't coming out yet. Switch the engine off, go back in the house and put the T.V on for a bit haha
01 May 2013 | 04:18 PM
#63
No one bothered to read the manual, then?
According to Subaru themselves, if I remember correctly, if you own a classic, it depends on which country you're in when you start the car!
If you're in most countries, you start the engine, wait a minute then drive away.
However, if you're in GERMANY(!!) when you start the engine then you must drive away straightaway.
I've a friend who lives in Luxemburg and whose partner lived across the border in Germany. Fortunately, she didn't own a classic otherwise her warranty would've been well fooked.
No, I don't know why either!
According to Subaru themselves, if I remember correctly, if you own a classic, it depends on which country you're in when you start the car!
If you're in most countries, you start the engine, wait a minute then drive away.
However, if you're in GERMANY(!!) when you start the engine then you must drive away straightaway.
I've a friend who lives in Luxemburg and whose partner lived across the border in Germany. Fortunately, she didn't own a classic otherwise her warranty would've been well fooked.
No, I don't know why either!
02 May 2013 | 02:39 AM
#64
On my impreza you can feel that the boost isn't on full chat whilst accelerating when the engine is cold. Try it tomorrow, put your foot to the floor whilst the engine is cold and it definately doesn't go like it does when it's warm. ECU's aren't stupid you know lol
02 May 2013 | 08:19 AM
#65
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From: Wales
@ 1.3 miles the car showed normal water temp.
@ 1.4 miles the oil gauge registered 50c
@ 2.0 miles the oil was 70c
@ 3.1 miles the oil was 80c
@ 5.4 miles the oil was 90c where i stays really unless i'm on the motorway or booting it. The most i've ever seen was 105c on a really hot day with the foot to the floor
This test was done in 30 and 40 limits under 3k and off boost
Did you drive into the back of anything whilst conducting this research?
Last edited by LuckyWelshchap; 02 May 2013 at 08:20 AM.
02 May 2013 | 08:36 AM
#67
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From: Harrogate
Quote: Did a test on the way home from work this morning
@ 1.3 miles the car showed normal water temp.
@ 1.4 miles the oil gauge registered 50c
@ 2.0 miles the oil was 70c
@ 3.1 miles the oil was 80c
@ 5.4 miles the oil was 90c where i stays really unless i'm on the motorway or booting it. The most i've ever seen was 105c on a really hot day with the foot to the floor
This test was done in 30 and 40 limits under 3k and off boost
Did you drive into the back of anything whilst conducting this research?
@ 1.3 miles the car showed normal water temp.
@ 1.4 miles the oil gauge registered 50c
@ 2.0 miles the oil was 70c
@ 3.1 miles the oil was 80c
@ 5.4 miles the oil was 90c where i stays really unless i'm on the motorway or booting it. The most i've ever seen was 105c on a really hot day with the foot to the floor
This test was done in 30 and 40 limits under 3k and off boost
Did you drive into the back of anything whilst conducting this research?
02 May 2013 | 12:18 PM
#68
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Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Bristol
I face the issue of going 300 yards then on to a major ring road so I can't accelerate that slowly or just plain dangerous. My 2002 jdm sti definitely holds back and doesn't want to be pushed. Annoying that I have no oil temp gauge. Its pretty frustrating as a quick blast is impossible really, had loads of turbo diesels and petrols but the sti still is noticeably more hesitant and makes you aware that hooning it of the drive is not a great idea. I guess its pretty old and is more tuned/performance focused than your run of the mill turbo derv
Last edited by seado180; 02 May 2013 at 12:20 PM.
02 May 2013 | 07:33 PM
#70
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From: Harrogate
02 May 2013 | 08:41 PM
#71
My neighbour has a classic M reg WRX. Straight through exhaust. For the past year and a half since hes owned his he has let it warm up for 15 mins EVERY time he goes out in it threw out the day. I mean like he could go out in it 6 times a day just nipping to the shops or work or where ever so its idling for over an hour a day pretty much every day!
He also leaves it running for 5 mins when he parks up again too!
I have told him many times hes killing it and that he doesnt need to do this. I just start mine up and off i go, i drive it nicely till its nice and warm for about 5 miles (roughly) and then i can thrash it if i fancy it. When i'm about 2 miles from home i would drive it nicely and then just leave it running for 30 secs while i take my seatbelt off etc. and then just turn it off.
Long story short, his engine now has a knocking noise from the bottom end, hes still driving it and he denies its there but it definately is knocking and is only getting worse.
He also leaves it running for 5 mins when he parks up again too!
I have told him many times hes killing it and that he doesnt need to do this. I just start mine up and off i go, i drive it nicely till its nice and warm for about 5 miles (roughly) and then i can thrash it if i fancy it. When i'm about 2 miles from home i would drive it nicely and then just leave it running for 30 secs while i take my seatbelt off etc. and then just turn it off.
Long story short, his engine now has a knocking noise from the bottom end, hes still driving it and he denies its there but it definately is knocking and is only getting worse.
03 May 2013 | 12:00 AM
#74
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From: Wales
03 May 2013 | 09:24 AM
#78
My neighbours would love me running my car at 3.45am with a 3"bore exhaust for 5 mins lol, i start and move off and keep revs and boost to minimum until oil temp is up, sitting at idle is wasting fuel and causing more ware as it takes longer to heat up.
07 May 2013 | 03:31 PM
#81
Does it make a difference with rebuilt engines? Do you need to treat them any different? Seems like the sensus is to let it warm up to 80c before any major boost? I can set my oil temp gauge to change colour at specified temps so i might set that up as a good visual indicator of when you can give it some beans
07 May 2013 | 05:53 PM
#83
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From: Bordon England
It's simple don't rag it till its warm! Athletes warm up before competing in the same way but they don't warm up from standing still in a blanket!! Just take it easy until up to a reasonable temp!!
07 May 2013 | 06:21 PM
#85
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From: North Yorkshire
I looked into this a couple of months ago and found out that leaving a car to idle is where most wear occurs, even at traffic lights when the car has been running for a bit. Something to do with build up of condensation and friction, I cant really remember, but the longer you leave it idling the worse it is. Driving gently at 1500 - 2000 revs rather than idling at 800 speeds up the heating process, it doesn't add any more wear than at 800 but greatly reducing the time the car spends cold. Letting it 'warm up' for a few minutes before actually driving off is just about the worst thing you can do.
08 May 2013 | 02:27 AM
#86
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From: West London
I looked into this a couple of months ago and found out that leaving a car to idle is where most wear occurs, even at traffic lights when the car has been running for a bit. Something to do with build up of condensation and friction, I cant really remember, but the longer you leave it idling the worse it is. Driving gently at 1500 - 2000 revs rather than idling at 800 speeds up the heating process, it doesn't add any more wear than at 800 but greatly reducing the time the car spends cold. Letting it 'warm up' for a few minutes before actually driving off is just about the worst thing you can do.
08 May 2013 | 08:01 AM
#87
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From: North Yorkshire
A quick search on google say much the same thing.
http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/myths/idling.html
http://www.consumerenergycenter.org/myths/idling.html
Here are some other Myths associated with idling.
Myth #1: The engine should be warmed up before driving. Reality: Idling is not an effective way to warm up your vehicle, even in cold weather. The best way to do this is to drive the vehicle. With today's modern engines, you need no more than 30 seconds of idling on winter days before driving away.
Myth #2: Idling is good for your engine. Reality: Excessive idling can actually damage your engine components, including cylinders, spark plugs, and exhaust systems. Fuel is only partially combusted when idling because an engine does not operate at its peak temperature. This leads to the build up of fuel residues on cylinder walls that can damage engine components and increase fuel consumption.
Myth #3: Shutting off and restarting your vehicle is hard on the engine and uses more gas than if you leave it running. Reality: Frequent restarting has little impact on engine components like the battery and the starter motor. Component wear caused by restarting the engine is estimated to add $10 per year to the cost of driving, money that will likely be recovered several times over in fuel savings from reduced idling. The bottom line is that more than ten seconds of idling uses more fuel than restarting the engine.
Myth #1: The engine should be warmed up before driving. Reality: Idling is not an effective way to warm up your vehicle, even in cold weather. The best way to do this is to drive the vehicle. With today's modern engines, you need no more than 30 seconds of idling on winter days before driving away.
Myth #2: Idling is good for your engine. Reality: Excessive idling can actually damage your engine components, including cylinders, spark plugs, and exhaust systems. Fuel is only partially combusted when idling because an engine does not operate at its peak temperature. This leads to the build up of fuel residues on cylinder walls that can damage engine components and increase fuel consumption.
Myth #3: Shutting off and restarting your vehicle is hard on the engine and uses more gas than if you leave it running. Reality: Frequent restarting has little impact on engine components like the battery and the starter motor. Component wear caused by restarting the engine is estimated to add $10 per year to the cost of driving, money that will likely be recovered several times over in fuel savings from reduced idling. The bottom line is that more than ten seconds of idling uses more fuel than restarting the engine.
14 May 2013 | 12:24 PM
#90
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From: Wales
I notice a distinct difference if it's idling for 30secs or so before pulling off.
Almost as soon as I leave there's a short sharp incline (10 yards 1 in 5 or so) onto the main road.
The once I pulled off straight away it strained on gentle revs to get up there and had to be held on fairly vigourous revs before I could edge out (the junction is almost totally blind) and it was a bit lumpy.
Giving it 30 seconds or so (which I always do) and it's a different story altogether.
I then keep it at about 2k - using whatever gear is required - for a mile or so until the OT's up and running (50+) then off boost until the OT's up to 80.
A couple of miles and it's ready if needed.
Almost as soon as I leave there's a short sharp incline (10 yards 1 in 5 or so) onto the main road.
The once I pulled off straight away it strained on gentle revs to get up there and had to be held on fairly vigourous revs before I could edge out (the junction is almost totally blind) and it was a bit lumpy.
Giving it 30 seconds or so (which I always do) and it's a different story altogether.
I then keep it at about 2k - using whatever gear is required - for a mile or so until the OT's up and running (50+) then off boost until the OT's up to 80.
A couple of miles and it's ready if needed.
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