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Old 14 May 2013, 09:26 AM
  #31  
jason_2013
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You've not got it in gear have you? If so it's the resistance of the gearbox you're feeling.
Old 14 May 2013, 03:00 PM
  #32  
wayne9t9
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Originally Posted by Davec30
Could it be that you turned the cams on the right in the wrong direction?


I don't know if this would cause your issue but I have just changed the the belt and kit on mine and the cams moved. There is a guid on YouTube wrx timing belt change. It is a very good guide. The guy advises that the cams can only be turned in their respective direction or risk damage ...!(Top cam clock wise, bottom cam anti clockwise)

Someone will be along and correct me if I'm wrong!
Thats what i`m afraid of. I was aware of it but now i`m wondering if I turned the bottom cam clockwise and caused valve to valve damage. Is that possible with one hand on an allen key? If I take the belt back off and let the cams settle to where there is no resistance on them does that mean all valves are closed? If so I should be able to turn the crank without hitting anything and that would confirm no valves are bent and stuck open?
Old 14 May 2013, 07:45 PM
  #33  
Davec30
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Sorry, I don't know the answer to that although I can't see you damaging the valves if you have not forced anything! Hopefully you'll get an answer soon.
Old 14 May 2013, 08:01 PM
  #34  
jason_2013
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Originally Posted by wayne9t9
Thats what i`m afraid of. I was aware of it but now i`m wondering if I turned the bottom cam clockwise and caused valve to valve damage. Is that possible with one hand on an allen key? If I take the belt back off and let the cams settle to where there is no resistance on them does that mean all valves are closed? If so I should be able to turn the crank without hitting anything and that would confirm no valves are bent and stuck open?

Yeah do that. And also checking the valve clearances will confirm any damage. If you've got a big valve clearance then you have problems.
Old 14 May 2013, 08:03 PM
  #35  
Primeiro
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Ok here some info.

When the key way on the crank is @6oclock/ line mark off sprocket to 12oclock all the pistons are half way down the bores. All cams can be turned fully in this position due to no possible contact between valves and crown of pistons. As long as you had this position when you turned the cams then no issues.

When cams are off cam there is no resistance and will spin by hand until cam lobe comes into contact with valve bucket. Yes this means all the valves are closed.

Stick to this method. Note: When I write Right hand (Rh) this is from the front of the car looking @the engine. This is not the Rh side due to side is determined from the drivers seat so Rh is actualy Lh but lets go by the front of car.

Fit tensioner with pin in.
Remove the lower red idler from the block.
Start @crank & line belt line up with arrow/mark on crank sprocket (key way @6 oclock)
RhIn cam line mark on belt to line on pulley/will also line mark off pulley with inner belt cover.
RhEx cam line belt mark up with line on pulley/will also line mark off pulley with inner belt cover.
Feed belt around toothed pulley onto water pump pulley.
LhEx line belt mark up with line on pulley/will also line mark off pulley with inner belt cover.
LhIn line belt mark up with line on pulley/will also line mark off pulley with inner belt cover.
Fit red smooth idler to block.
Have a look & confirm all belt marks are lined up with crank sprocket/pulley lines.
Remove tensioner pin and turn clockwise to releive tensioner pin.
Turn engine backwards past timed position.
Turn clockwise until all lines are marked to cranksprocket and pulleys.
Note if the double lines from pulley to pulley do not perfectly line up do not worry.

Now turn engine clockwise only from now on and see where you are, if you have any sort of locking then you have an issue.

Try that.
Old 14 May 2013, 08:43 PM
  #36  
mickywrx
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Originally Posted by chopperman
You could have all the marks lined up but still be 180* out.
Seen it at first hand, not my own car though.

It was, erm, interesting to drive.
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