Guest

iTrader: (2)

It's not bad to read the fault codes, you've got the same car as me a MY97. Have a look under the steering wheel and you'll see two sets of loose plugs not connected together, chances are by now they'll have already been used a few times given the age of the car so they'll probably be easily visible. There's two green and two black ones, IIRC you need to connect the black ones together, switch ignition on and the CHECK ENGINE light will flash you a code or several. Make sure you've got a pen and paper handy, mark the flashes and spaces then compare them to the fault code list.

Explained in more detail here:

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...eadingECUCodes

And as said, don't know how you've got away with swapping the turbo without a map but maybe you've been lucky, but one things for sure you're not getting the best out of that turbo without it being mapped. Short term you need to find a good set of working Grey 380cc injectors, they're not very desirable so should be cheap as chips. Then if you decide you want more power stick the yellows back on and drive it straight to a mapper gently off boost. Assuming you've had a bigger turbo fitted (I'd assume VF or TD05 as they're popular choices) with yellow injectors and a decat you'll be around the 300 bhp mark which you WILL notice.

PeeVee

iTrader: (1)

Don't throw your teddies out of the pram mate... Stick with us.. There are some very knowledgeable people on here who will help you find a solution to your problem if you answer their questions & give a detailed account of your current spec, what you have changed & when it was done in relation to the problem you are now experiencing.



They do learn actually... They are quite capable of adjusting fueling and other parameters to suit the day to day changes within the system, but like everything, they have their limits as to how big a step change they can accommodate... You say that your other cars could do this. I know of no engine management system fitted to a road car (or even to the race cars that I have the pleasure of playing with) that could compensate for big changes to the original set up & give you an increase in power (let alone an engine that runs correctly) without a re-map... You have to remember that there are now many incarnations of that legendary flat 4 Subaru engine and the injectors fitted to them vary wildly in their capacity... It's virtually impossible to go to the "next size up" injector without going way past the Limit of the ecu's ability to compensate for that change (normally 20/25%). I would bet that you have never played with a turbo charged engine before (normally aspirated ones will let you f**K about with them to a large degree and they will still run without too much trouble).

By just removing the set of injectors from a standard engine & fitting a set of larger ones to it will NEVER cause any increase in power on it's own.. If anything, it will degrade the power produced due to over fueling & may cause it to not only run rough but also suffer from catastrophic bore wash/engine wear if you don't complement it with the relevant supporting mods & a proper re-map.


You say that the original injectors had MAJOR issues.. What issues?... Were they causing the engine to "run rough" or "not at all"? Had they failed? (I seriously doubt it) Were you getting running or non start problems... Did the initial fitment of the "larger" injectors cure your problem or did it just improve it? Were the injectors fitted at the same time as the Catalyst?.. Re-fitting a catalyst to a de-catted engine would not cause the problems that you describe & certainly would not cause limp home mode to kick in unless something else was disturbed/changed at the same time.

Cast your mind back to when she last ran properly (did she ever?). When precisely did you first notice the current problem?.. Was it the first time you turned the key after a change was made or did it happen gradually over a period of time after a mod?

Was it running ok with the new injectors fitted in tandem with the de-cat down pipe or did the problem only start when either the catalyst or injectors were changed independently?

Have you read the fault codes from the ECU?... As this would give you an idea as to what part of the engine management system was causing your problem.

Phil

scoobynshag

iTrader: (14)

Ok toys back in pram and pram back in the cupboard, codes read are 23 and 24 which are AFM and ICV which listed 3 possible faults on the 24 code.

Problem solved now as it seems I didnt properly engage the AFM plug until a hard push and a click completely changed the engines note and check light off straight away.

i have owned 2 turbocharged cars, 1 being a 550 bhp C20LET and a 380 BHP saab V6 both of which i have built and had no issues with until sale of the LET.

The saab i still own and use it for a track car mainly, so i am very aware of the turbo design, the V6 actually has a VF28 on it which you all know is out of a scooby or similar.

i know that you cant just sling in a set of injectors in and hope for the best without a remap or standalone management which i prefer TBH.

But in saying that the injectors are from a scooby and not from a porsche for example and shouldnt cause major running issues like hunting, rough idle and popping and banging and refusal to rev past 3.5k. the obvious after reading the codes which is the exact same way as GM and saab pointed me to my failure to check the AFM plug which caused the problem, the car is now running better than it was when i bought it as to be fair i picked it up quite cheap and spent a few quid on it to get it looking and going like it almost should be, it probably is overfueling but that can be sorted when i remap it, it passed its emissions test so cant be all that bad and to be fair they could hardly get a reading which is good news for me, as for the mods done, it has a TD05 fitted which replaced the TD04 which was in the boot when i picked it up and the injectors and thats about all i can see, as for a remap i have no idea if it has or hasnt had one done, it seems to pull like a train now whereas it never did before, so for now i'm happy, still more to do and deeper pockets required as remaps are pricey for these for some reason.

anyway all done and happy and could do with a wideband just to keep an eye on things but i sold mine so stuffed myself there.

happy days, cheers guys

scoobynshag

iTrader: (14)

on another note:

How difficult are the clutches to do in this, i have a price for a exedy pink and a standard one but was wondering if they are hard to do and how long it would take, or how much a garage would charge as mines started to slip in 2,3,4,5 which is a right pain when you want to put the power down

Guest

iTrader: (2)

I've just done mine literally a week or so ago, first time doing the clutch on a scoob and I didn't find it any trouble at all. If like me you're doing it on the floor not on ramps it's a lot easier to lift the engine out with a hoist rather than spend a day or two messing round underneath with the heavy gearbox.

Plus with the engine out it gives you a chance to give it a good look over and replace all the hard to get bits. In the end as well as the clutch I replaced the rear crank seal, spark plugs, oil and filter, timing belt and all idlers, new radiator and a few of the vacuum/wastegate actuator hoses that had perished. All super easy to do with the engine out.

Took a few pictures and stuff here.

https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...-tomorrow.html

scoobynshag

iTrader: (14)

Cheers mate will look into that, was yours a pull or push type clutch, I don't know what mine is and will have to look it up, at a guess and experience with both types I prefer the push type as peugeots use the same sort of pull type and they can be hell