kwan88

thanks stuart for your help this afternoon. I will order the hub nuts and then lets see if the noise disappears.

i agree with you that if the notch is on the nut, then it should'nt really get lose but i suppose someone else can share their thoughts?

regards.

stu turbo 98

iTrader: (6)

Your welcome Koi.
Although I have to say that its not something I would be concerned about,your car feels very smooth and tight from where I was sitting,when my classic is fixed ill let you take that out and you wont believe the feelings you get from it especially with harder suspension and racing gearbox,engine and pitch mounts,sometimes I cant tell if its falling apart or wether its the crap roads we are blessed with.A regular check underneath,by grabbing and pulling at everything mechanical with the wheels off the ground and checking nuts and bolts for tightness gives me reassurance that's nothings going to go wrong

kwan88

Did anyone else try replacing the hub nut to cure this knock noise when lifting off? I have'nt had time to order the parts yet?

Regards.

Fonzey

iTrader: (5)

Mine is still silent if that means anything

Problem is... fix one noise, find three more in its place!

quango2k

i have this noise...totally trying this tonight! only started after fitting coilovers :S

Bob99

Just thought I would mention the following (yes, I am an mechanical engineer)The torque for hub nuts on 2004/2005 is 220nm as per factory manual. The reason for the apparent loose nuts is caused by the wear in the bearings which will have settled into their wear pattern, re-tightening the nuts will take up this wear but will cause a new wear pattern to form and in some cases this will cause a possible future bearing failure. What ever you do don't over tighten and rattle guns for tightening wheel bearings are a big no-no and always use a new nut.

kwan88

so bob99 do still think its worth tighting the hub nut or will this cause further wear on the bearing? or is changing the bearing the only way to cure it?

Bob99

The clunking is not the bearing, when a bearing has settled and the nut is not providing the clamping pressure it used to then this will allow the drive shaft splines and the hub splines to move in relation to each other and over a period of time wear will occur, the more wear you have the bigger the clunk. Re-tighening the hub nut will restore the clamp pressure between the drive shaft and hub contact surface and will stop this movement, hence the knock goes away. This is only a temporary fix as the bearing will re-settle and some clamping pressure will be lost and the whole thing starts again, how long this will take is anyones guess and would depend on the driving style and power you are putting down.

If you have no wheel bearing play then a new nut and re-torque should be ok but failure is always a possibility. If for any reason you should remove the hub always replace the bearing.

kwan88

Thanks bob,

I finally finally managed to get ignition mmotorsport to replace both of my rear hub nuts a part of some other work and now the clunk noise that I have been having has gone away. It's been over a month now but I am constantly checking in case the bearing needs replacing, thanks.

LUCKO

iTrader: (3)

should this be tightened to 185nm or 220nm as conflicting numbers on this thread cheers

LUCKO

iTrader: (3)

can someone answer the above please

fl@ four

What's the consensus on this then? Is 220nm the way to go?

I've got an '03 blobeye so assume it's the same as the '04/05?

fl@ four

According to the service manual here, it's 190nm. Think I'll run with that!

Binny

Thread revival!

Can I confirm that the but required is definitely a 32mm nut? I ask as I've just been to a local supplier (JCP out of stock) and they recon it's a 33mm and it's a part that's shared with other car brands.

I want the proper parts not monkey metal gear from a third party if that's what they are selling plus it's the wrong size they I'll wait for JCP. Can someone confirm?

Finally there seems to be a debate on the torque requirement still. What's the general consensus? 190,220...?

Thanks. Binny

Rusti

iTrader: (4)

i would like to know this as well

Binny

Finally got my hands on a decent torque wrench that goes up to 300nm so when swapping over my nuts 😉 I had a look at the hub nut. The near side rear, exactly when the knock was coming from, was not tight enough. The part of the nut that was punched into the whole to stop the nut from turning wasn't punched in enough and had slipped a few mm round. I tightened it up to 210nm (nobody seems to know the correct torque so I went with what seemed to be the most popular choice), punched the nut in a little more so it wouldn't slip again and happy days no more knocking!

Problem solved.

Don Clark

Fronts torque to 220Nm
Rears torque to 190Nm

Jonny Park

Does this apply to V3 classic Don? Thanks

Don Clark

It would appear that for classics it's 186 +/_ 20 Nm front and rear.

scoobyboy

bit odd they are coming loose is there any play in the wheel bearing with that nut undone?

Binny

I had a good push/pull and found no play at all. The nut had come loose from not having the punched part punched in enough. It didn't seem like much but it's made the difference.