THAT knock when lifting off the gas
#31
thanks stuart for your help this afternoon. I will order the hub nuts and then lets see if the noise disappears.
i agree with you that if the notch is on the nut, then it should'nt really get lose but i suppose someone else can share their thoughts?
regards.
i agree with you that if the notch is on the nut, then it should'nt really get lose but i suppose someone else can share their thoughts?
regards.
#32
Scooby Regular
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Your welcome Koi.
Although I have to say that its not something I would be concerned about,your car feels very smooth and tight from where I was sitting,when my classic is fixed ill let you take that out and you wont believe the feelings you get from it especially with harder suspension and racing gearbox,engine and pitch mounts,sometimes I cant tell if its falling apart or wether its the crap roads we are blessed with.A regular check underneath,by grabbing and pulling at everything mechanical with the wheels off the ground and checking nuts and bolts for tightness gives me reassurance that's nothings going to go wrong
Although I have to say that its not something I would be concerned about,your car feels very smooth and tight from where I was sitting,when my classic is fixed ill let you take that out and you wont believe the feelings you get from it especially with harder suspension and racing gearbox,engine and pitch mounts,sometimes I cant tell if its falling apart or wether its the crap roads we are blessed with.A regular check underneath,by grabbing and pulling at everything mechanical with the wheels off the ground and checking nuts and bolts for tightness gives me reassurance that's nothings going to go wrong
#36
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Just thought I would mention the following (yes, I am an mechanical engineer)The torque for hub nuts on 2004/2005 is 220nm as per factory manual. The reason for the apparent loose nuts is caused by the wear in the bearings which will have settled into their wear pattern, re-tightening the nuts will take up this wear but will cause a new wear pattern to form and in some cases this will cause a possible future bearing failure. What ever you do don't over tighten and rattle guns for tightening wheel bearings are a big no-no and always use a new nut.
#38
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The clunking is not the bearing, when a bearing has settled and the nut is not providing the clamping pressure it used to then this will allow the drive shaft splines and the hub splines to move in relation to each other and over a period of time wear will occur, the more wear you have the bigger the clunk. Re-tighening the hub nut will restore the clamp pressure between the drive shaft and hub contact surface and will stop this movement, hence the knock goes away. This is only a temporary fix as the bearing will re-settle and some clamping pressure will be lost and the whole thing starts again, how long this will take is anyones guess and would depend on the driving style and power you are putting down.
If you have no wheel bearing play then a new nut and re-torque should be ok but failure is always a possibility. If for any reason you should remove the hub always replace the bearing.
If you have no wheel bearing play then a new nut and re-torque should be ok but failure is always a possibility. If for any reason you should remove the hub always replace the bearing.
#39
The clunking is not the bearing, when a bearing has settled and the nut is not providing the clamping pressure it used to then this will allow the drive shaft splines and the hub splines to move in relation to each other and over a period of time wear will occur, the more wear you have the bigger the clunk. Re-tighening the hub nut will restore the clamp pressure between the drive shaft and hub contact surface and will stop this movement, hence the knock goes away. This is only a temporary fix as the bearing will re-settle and some clamping pressure will be lost and the whole thing starts again, how long this will take is anyones guess and would depend on the driving style and power you are putting down.
If you have no wheel bearing play then a new nut and re-torque should be ok but failure is always a possibility. If for any reason you should remove the hub always replace the bearing.
If you have no wheel bearing play then a new nut and re-torque should be ok but failure is always a possibility. If for any reason you should remove the hub always replace the bearing.
I finally finally managed to get ignition mmotorsport to replace both of my rear hub nuts a part of some other work and now the clunk noise that I have been having has gone away. It's been over a month now but I am constantly checking in case the bearing needs replacing, thanks.
#44
Scooby Regular
Thread revival!
Can I confirm that the but required is definitely a 32mm nut? I ask as I've just been to a local supplier (JCP out of stock) and they recon it's a 33mm and it's a part that's shared with other car brands.
I want the proper parts not monkey metal gear from a third party if that's what they are selling plus it's the wrong size they I'll wait for JCP. Can someone confirm?
Finally there seems to be a debate on the torque requirement still. What's the general consensus? 190,220...?
Thanks. Binny
Can I confirm that the but required is definitely a 32mm nut? I ask as I've just been to a local supplier (JCP out of stock) and they recon it's a 33mm and it's a part that's shared with other car brands.
I want the proper parts not monkey metal gear from a third party if that's what they are selling plus it's the wrong size they I'll wait for JCP. Can someone confirm?
Finally there seems to be a debate on the torque requirement still. What's the general consensus? 190,220...?
Thanks. Binny
#46
Scooby Regular
Finally got my hands on a decent torque wrench that goes up to 300nm so when swapping over my nuts 😉 I had a look at the hub nut. The near side rear, exactly when the knock was coming from, was not tight enough. The part of the nut that was punched into the whole to stop the nut from turning wasn't punched in enough and had slipped a few mm round. I tightened it up to 210nm (nobody seems to know the correct torque so I went with what seemed to be the most popular choice), punched the nut in a little more so it wouldn't slip again and happy days no more knocking!
Problem solved.
Problem solved.
Last edited by Binny; 28 February 2017 at 05:49 PM.
#47
Scooby Regular
Fronts torque to 220Nm
Rears torque to 190Nm
Rears torque to 190Nm
#49
Scooby Regular
#51
Scooby Regular
I had a good push/pull and found no play at all. The nut had come loose from not having the punched part punched in enough. It didn't seem like much but it's made the difference.
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