p1 or v6 sti type r limited
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Wow, well i did a search for the differences in P1 and Type R, and my limited conclusion is:
Type R for the drivers seem intelligent and have a sense of humour. (with the exception of a couple of very decent P1 chaps who hold logical and intelligent opinions in this thread.
P1 for a duct intake
A local farmers son was bought a P1 for his 21st birthday, against all ods its still around. He says its ahead of the 22b in terms of machinery and rarity.
Type R for the drivers seem intelligent and have a sense of humour. (with the exception of a couple of very decent P1 chaps who hold logical and intelligent opinions in this thread.
P1 for a duct intake
A local farmers son was bought a P1 for his 21st birthday, against all ods its still around. He says its ahead of the 22b in terms of machinery and rarity.
#64
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I like the idea of the P1 becoming rarer each year, I think only 400 odd survive out of the 1000 produced, so prices will rise.
How many type R were made?
How many type R were made?
#65
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Yeah but you can still import a Type r that will have pretty much zero rust, there won't be many P1's that will be in that sort of condition.
At the end of the day as I said in an earlier post, buy on condition, when I bought my Type r 7/8 yrs ago a similar P1 was £10/12k my Type r was £7k so obviously that influenced my decision even though I could have bought either, I chose the Type r for the DCCD and it was for track/sprints, after a bit more research I went for the V3.
At the end of the day as I said in an earlier post, buy on condition, when I bought my Type r 7/8 yrs ago a similar P1 was £10/12k my Type r was £7k so obviously that influenced my decision even though I could have bought either, I chose the Type r for the DCCD and it was for track/sprints, after a bit more research I went for the V3.
#66
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My P1 doesn't have any rust issues apart from one large scab on a rear wheel arch which I intend to sort out very soon, car looks pretty original as well as far as paint and bodywork go so maybe I have just been lucky?
Ref the DCCD, mine also has this fitted along with 6 pot calipers which I think was another 'issue' as the P1 brakes were deemed not as good as the type R.
So for me I have the perfect scooby.
Ref the DCCD, mine also has this fitted along with 6 pot calipers which I think was another 'issue' as the P1 brakes were deemed not as good as the type R.
So for me I have the perfect scooby.
#67
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My P1 doesn't have any rust issues apart from one large scab on a rear wheel arch which I intend to sort out very soon, car looks pretty original as well as far as paint and bodywork go so maybe I have just been lucky?
Ref the DCCD, mine also has this fitted along with 6 pot calipers which I think was another 'issue' as the P1 brakes were deemed not as good as the type R.
So for me I have the perfect scooby.
Ref the DCCD, mine also has this fitted along with 6 pot calipers which I think was another 'issue' as the P1 brakes were deemed not as good as the type R.
So for me I have the perfect scooby.
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Like I said there is bugger all in it and it's horses for courses, as long as your happy with your car that's all that matters.
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#69
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Ditch.. you wrongly assume I do not know what i am looking at with car paintwork / bodywork then?
Qualified panel beater / sprayer for more years then I like to remember, own business, run bodyshop for national main dealer (Nissan) etc etc etc.
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#70
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Its a known fact that when you can see rust on the outside of the arch then its far worse underneath, and no doubt if the arch is showing rust then the sills will be in a similar state.
You said your car doesn't have any rust issues other than a large scab on the rear arch, with imprezas that is more often than not a large rust issue.
Do a search, theres plenty of threads with pics etc, I even did a thread myself with my own findings on my 'mint' impreza.
Ditch just pointed out that its very unlikely to find a UK model impreza that doesn't have corrosion issues.
Last edited by MattyB1983; 04 February 2014 at 10:30 AM.
#71
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Thanks for advise and opinions, I do value them.
I just find it difficult to understand how you and Ditch can be so insistant my car, which I have inspected, has a rust problem which clearly it hasn't got.
But that's just me with 40 years experience as a fully apprentice served qualified panel beater, probably repaired damaged vehicles you wouldn't have thought possible.
I am restoring a split screen '54 moggy minor at the moment, now if you want to talk rust.......
I just find it difficult to understand how you and Ditch can be so insistant my car, which I have inspected, has a rust problem which clearly it hasn't got.
But that's just me with 40 years experience as a fully apprentice served qualified panel beater, probably repaired damaged vehicles you wouldn't have thought possible.
I am restoring a split screen '54 moggy minor at the moment, now if you want to talk rust.......
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It's been done to death and no car is 'better' than the other. They are different in minor ways but that's about it.
I owned a 22B and a P1 at the same time and preferred the P1 - they were the keys I grabbed more often than not.
Quicker and more comfortable over the bumpy sh1tty back roads I like to blatt up and down in my area. 22B was too stiff and crashy for my liking.
It's a matter of driving experience- some like really hardcore, some like a bit more civilised. I am now in a 5 series Beemer which tells you which driving style I have fallen into these days.
Horses for courses. Same engine, same power, give or take on 'fastest' or whatever. Both will put a smile on your face and outrun 95% of everything else you see on the roads.
What does it 'really' matter.....?
It just seems a lot of 'one-upmanship' by whoever owns what car most of the time. I appreciate both.
P1WOC has had a few bad eggs over the years but the core of the group is great- very helpful and knowledgeable and understandably fond of their respective cars. It is an enthusiast club- these guys care about their cars.
You wouldn't pick your kid up from nursery and tell another Dad his kid is ugly/mine is better.....so don't do it in car enthusiast forums. Have some respect.
I owned a 22B and a P1 at the same time and preferred the P1 - they were the keys I grabbed more often than not.
Quicker and more comfortable over the bumpy sh1tty back roads I like to blatt up and down in my area. 22B was too stiff and crashy for my liking.
It's a matter of driving experience- some like really hardcore, some like a bit more civilised. I am now in a 5 series Beemer which tells you which driving style I have fallen into these days.
Horses for courses. Same engine, same power, give or take on 'fastest' or whatever. Both will put a smile on your face and outrun 95% of everything else you see on the roads.
What does it 'really' matter.....?
It just seems a lot of 'one-upmanship' by whoever owns what car most of the time. I appreciate both.
P1WOC has had a few bad eggs over the years but the core of the group is great- very helpful and knowledgeable and understandably fond of their respective cars. It is an enthusiast club- these guys care about their cars.
You wouldn't pick your kid up from nursery and tell another Dad his kid is ugly/mine is better.....so don't do it in car enthusiast forums. Have some respect.
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#75
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Thanks for advise and opinions, I do value them.
I just find it difficult to understand how you and Ditch can be so insistant my car, which I have inspected, has a rust problem which clearly it hasn't got.
But that's just me with 40 years experience as a fully apprentice served qualified panel beater, probably repaired damaged vehicles you wouldn't have thought possible.
I am restoring a split screen '54 moggy minor at the moment, now if you want to talk rust.......
I just find it difficult to understand how you and Ditch can be so insistant my car, which I have inspected, has a rust problem which clearly it hasn't got.
But that's just me with 40 years experience as a fully apprentice served qualified panel beater, probably repaired damaged vehicles you wouldn't have thought possible.
I am restoring a split screen '54 moggy minor at the moment, now if you want to talk rust.......
![Thumb](images/smilies/thumb.gif)
It does have a rusty rear arch so yes, it does have a rust problem, just like every other uk classic impreza. Its no big deal fella, chill out.
#76
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Get some pics of your moggy up.
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#79
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My point is I do not understand how anyone can assume or indeed say what rust problem MY car has, considering I obviously know what I am looking for when I inspected it.
I do however accept it may be perforatedt when I grind the scab back, and if it's perforated then I will put a small plate in, but think it strange that guys on here insist it must be a lot worse because it's a P1.
Car is in workshop for last 6 weeks trying to sort out running problem, new MAF, Leads, Plugs, Coilpack and just about to fit new Lamda sensor.
I intended to do paintwork in spring, but am tempted to photo the scab, grind it back to prove a point.
I do however accept it may be perforatedt when I grind the scab back, and if it's perforated then I will put a small plate in, but think it strange that guys on here insist it must be a lot worse because it's a P1.
Car is in workshop for last 6 weeks trying to sort out running problem, new MAF, Leads, Plugs, Coilpack and just about to fit new Lamda sensor.
I intended to do paintwork in spring, but am tempted to photo the scab, grind it back to prove a point.
#80
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My point is I do not understand how anyone can assume or indeed say what rust problem MY car has, considering I obviously know what I am looking for when I inspected it.
I do however accept it may be perforatedt when I grind the scab back, and if it's perforated then I will put a small plate in, but think it strange that guys on here insist it must be a lot worse because it's a P1.
Car is in workshop for last 6 weeks trying to sort out running problem, new MAF, Leads, Plugs, Coilpack and just about to fit new Lamda sensor.
I intended to do paintwork in spring, but am tempted to photo the scab, grind it back to prove a point.
I do however accept it may be perforatedt when I grind the scab back, and if it's perforated then I will put a small plate in, but think it strange that guys on here insist it must be a lot worse because it's a P1.
Car is in workshop for last 6 weeks trying to sort out running problem, new MAF, Leads, Plugs, Coilpack and just about to fit new Lamda sensor.
I intended to do paintwork in spring, but am tempted to photo the scab, grind it back to prove a point.
get it done a prove them wrong
;-)
#82
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Get some pics of your moggy up.
![Thumb](images/smilies/thumb.gif)
was going to put some moggy photos up but can not see any options?
#83
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My point is I do not understand how anyone can assume or indeed say what rust problem MY car has, considering I obviously know what I am looking for when I inspected it.
I do however accept it may be perforatedt when I grind the scab back, and if it's perforated then I will put a small plate in, but think it strange that guys on here insist it must be a lot worse because it's a P1.
Car is in workshop for last 6 weeks trying to sort out running problem, new MAF, Leads, Plugs, Coilpack and just about to fit new Lamda sensor.
I intended to do paintwork in spring, but am tempted to photo the scab, grind it back to prove a point.
I do however accept it may be perforatedt when I grind the scab back, and if it's perforated then I will put a small plate in, but think it strange that guys on here insist it must be a lot worse because it's a P1.
Car is in workshop for last 6 weeks trying to sort out running problem, new MAF, Leads, Plugs, Coilpack and just about to fit new Lamda sensor.
I intended to do paintwork in spring, but am tempted to photo the scab, grind it back to prove a point.
![Thumb](images/smilies/thumb.gif)
#84
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From the outside my Type R arches don't look too bad. But when I looked it over with a view to buying it i saw a small bubble on the outside and then viewed down from the boot into the top of the arch and it looks worse from that angle.
Judging by some of the pictures I've seen on here with mild rusting on the outside to severe rusting inside I'd say any sign on the outside can't be good inside.
As said though, chuck some pictures up by registering with photobucket.
www.photobucket.co.uk.
Judging by some of the pictures I've seen on here with mild rusting on the outside to severe rusting inside I'd say any sign on the outside can't be good inside.
As said though, chuck some pictures up by registering with photobucket.
www.photobucket.co.uk.
#85
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Engine fitted had problem on hot idle, it is eratic (hunting), seem like an air leak issue, but problem finding it. A guy on P1 owners club reckons it could be the hose to turbo, he had same idle problem and it was a split under the hose clip.
Then 2 months ago it started having a misfire, which I am still trying to sort out.
I do like the car, it's great to drive when it's working, but owned for 1 year now and off the road for nearly half of it
![Cry2](images/smilies/cry2.gif)
#86
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My point is I do not understand how anyone can assume or indeed say what rust problem MY car has, considering I obviously know what I am looking for when I inspected it.
I do however accept it may be perforatedt when I grind the scab back, and if it's perforated then I will put a small plate in, but think it strange that guys on here insist it must be a lot worse because it's a P1.
Car is in workshop for last 6 weeks trying to sort out running problem, new MAF, Leads, Plugs, Coilpack and just about to fit new Lamda sensor.
I intended to do paintwork in spring, but am tempted to photo the scab, grind it back to prove a point.
I do however accept it may be perforatedt when I grind the scab back, and if it's perforated then I will put a small plate in, but think it strange that guys on here insist it must be a lot worse because it's a P1.
Car is in workshop for last 6 weeks trying to sort out running problem, new MAF, Leads, Plugs, Coilpack and just about to fit new Lamda sensor.
I intended to do paintwork in spring, but am tempted to photo the scab, grind it back to prove a point.
The only point being made is that 99% of the time the rust on the rear arch is far worse than it appears. Not just on P1's, on any classic impreza !!!!! And the UK cars usually suffer far more with rust that is all.
It does however sound as if you've got more pressing matters, get it running right before you worry about how it looks hey
![Thumb](images/smilies/thumb.gif)
#88
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Unfortunately engine 'went pop' after about 2 months of buying car (rear shell siezed), it took another 3 months to find and fit a good engine.
Engine fitted had problem on hot idle, it is eratic (hunting), seem like an air leak issue, but problem finding it. A guy on P1 owners club reckons it could be the hose to turbo, he had same idle problem and it was a split under the hose clip.
Then 2 months ago it started having a misfire, which I am still trying to sort out.
I do like the car, it's great to drive when it's working, but owned for 1 year now and off the road for nearly half of it![Cry2](images/smilies/cry2.gif)
Engine fitted had problem on hot idle, it is eratic (hunting), seem like an air leak issue, but problem finding it. A guy on P1 owners club reckons it could be the hose to turbo, he had same idle problem and it was a split under the hose clip.
Then 2 months ago it started having a misfire, which I am still trying to sort out.
I do like the car, it's great to drive when it's working, but owned for 1 year now and off the road for nearly half of it
![Cry2](images/smilies/cry2.gif)
![Thumb](images/smilies/thumb.gif)
Sounds like it could also be maf related, sorry just read you changed the maf, what about the idle control valve?
Last edited by ditchmyster; 04 February 2014 at 05:35 PM.
#89
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Jesus fella, chill out.
The only point being made is that 99% of the time the rust on the rear arch is far worse than it appears. Not just on P1's, on any classic impreza !!!!! And the UK cars usually suffer far more with rust that is all.
It does however sound as if you've got more pressing matters, get it running right before you worry about how it looks hey![Thumb](images/smilies/thumb.gif)
The only point being made is that 99% of the time the rust on the rear arch is far worse than it appears. Not just on P1's, on any classic impreza !!!!! And the UK cars usually suffer far more with rust that is all.
It does however sound as if you've got more pressing matters, get it running right before you worry about how it looks hey
![Thumb](images/smilies/thumb.gif)
I am chilled about the rust thing, and my knickers are not in a twist, just trying to get a point over.
RUST.. yes it's a 4 letter word, and scares the average car owner, but for me is no problem, certainly nothing to worry about on my P1, even if it was as big a problem as you guys on here like to think it's really no concern because it's what I have been doing for 40 years
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