Warm up procedure?
#33
#34
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Yep just drive off and keep it off boost if poss for me. Though I've realised I have a slightly odd starting technique in that I always turn the ignition on and wait for the fuel pump to prime before starting it up, and I always put the clutch in, this isn't Subaru specific, just a habit I've got into and do it with every car! Apart from the girlfriends Fiesta with it's damned push button start :-(
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Yep just drive off and keep it off boost if poss for me. Though I've realised I have a slightly odd starting technique in that I always turn the ignition on and wait for the fuel pump to prime before starting it up, and I always put the clutch in, this isn't Subaru specific, just a habit I've got into and do it with every car! Apart from the girlfriends Fiesta with it's damned push button start :-(
#36
Right all those saying they let their car "idle" for a few mins, how do you do that then? I start my impreza up and straight away the revs are up at 2000rpm as its cold and the iscv is wide open! Do you disconnect your iscv every morning then reconnect it again once you drive off? Surley this 2000 rpm situation is too high for you?
#37
Right all those saying they let their car "idle" for a few mins, how do you do that then? I start my impreza up and straight away the revs are up at 2000rpm as its cold and the iscv is wide open! Do you disconnect your iscv every morning then reconnect it again once you drive off? Surley this 2000 rpm situation is too high for you?
#38
You missunderstand my concept, you cant let a cold ej idle, cos it wont, it will rev away quite happily until it warms up, Im really not bothered about how anyone else warms their car up as it wont be me having to re bulid it, im just joinging in on the childish banter this thread has provoked.
#39
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How far does everyone pull their chokes out, I find just a little over the 3/4 mark is best. Pump the accelerator a few times and rev it to an inch of it's life so it doesn't cut out! Then drive straight off remembering to put the choke in to avoid flooding!
#42
You missunderstand my concept, you cant let a cold ej idle, cos it wont, it will rev away quite happily until it warms up, Im really not bothered about how anyone else warms their car up as it wont be me having to re bulid it, im just joinging in on the childish banter this thread has provoked.
you know what people mean by idle don't be a smart ***,i haven't seen anything childish
#44
#45
you turn the key and wait for 2 min is that a good explanation?,yea saw those jokes at least they were amusing,what you said was silly sorry for mentioning anything its all banter as you say
#49
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Ice scrapper and de icer are pretty good, it's also a bit of excercise for lazy *******. A well maintained car won't have condensation, especially if you keep the inside of the screen cleaned with a good product.
Last edited by The Trooper 1815; 24 January 2014 at 03:39 PM.
#50
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I start mine, put seat belt on and drive off, first 2-3 mins is through a 20 zone anyway, so just on tick over in 2nd or 3rd
when you see athletes warming up, are they stationary with an electric blanket wrapped around them to 'warm them up'?
how many turbo diesels get warmed up by leaving on tick over for 5 mins?
my work van has never been warmed up like that, it's done 195k, so I must be doing something right
when you see athletes warming up, are they stationary with an electric blanket wrapped around them to 'warm them up'?
how many turbo diesels get warmed up by leaving on tick over for 5 mins?
my work van has never been warmed up like that, it's done 195k, so I must be doing something right
#53
For me - start engine - crank on WOT for a few seconds if car has not been started for 24 hrs to get oil pressure up.
F-about with music, seatbelt, de-ice or whatever for approx 20-30 seconds.
Open DCCD to take the strain out of egress from driveway onto road - try to avoid pedestrians, school kids with potentially drugged out mums, poorly trained pit-bulls etc.
Take car up to 3K rpm in first on light throttle so that second gear engages without any force being required to engage and continue thus until oil is up to temp - usually about 3 miles and then use car for intended purpose.
ie get to destination safely :-)
F-about with music, seatbelt, de-ice or whatever for approx 20-30 seconds.
Open DCCD to take the strain out of egress from driveway onto road - try to avoid pedestrians, school kids with potentially drugged out mums, poorly trained pit-bulls etc.
Take car up to 3K rpm in first on light throttle so that second gear engages without any force being required to engage and continue thus until oil is up to temp - usually about 3 miles and then use car for intended purpose.
ie get to destination safely :-)
Last edited by cster; 25 January 2014 at 01:59 AM.
#54
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For me I have just started it waited 10 to 20 seconds and drive off easily and off boost until
the gauge is showing the the engine is fully warmed up then I boost the living **** out of it !
besides if I let my engine idle outside my house in the morning my neighbors would probably go apesh!t LOL thanks to the decat and full blitz nur spec exhaust
also for coming home I drive off boost for 1 mile then park and wait like 10 seconds and turn the car off.
the gauge is showing the the engine is fully warmed up then I boost the living **** out of it !
besides if I let my engine idle outside my house in the morning my neighbors would probably go apesh!t LOL thanks to the decat and full blitz nur spec exhaust
also for coming home I drive off boost for 1 mile then park and wait like 10 seconds and turn the car off.
Last edited by nizmo80; 25 January 2014 at 03:46 AM.
#55
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I'd love to get an engine builders take on all this.
By my limited knowledge every engine contains several different metal moving parts of varying thickness'. Metal expands under heat, and the thicker metals would take longer to get to full operating temperature. I'd imagine all tolerances and gaps are designed to be checked when cold to give the real tolerance once it's reached full operating temperature. For example a gap of 0.15 valve gap when cold would be (I'd imagine) less than that once warmed. I'd be interested to know if forged piston's etc take longer to get to full operating temp than standard piston's.
I can't see why idling for a few minutes would harm an engine if it's followed by a relatively long drive afterwards.
Me personally I've always driven off boost until the engine is warmed up, but now I've got an oil temp gauge I can see how long it takes for oil to start getting to operating temperature I'm sympathetic for longer.
By my limited knowledge every engine contains several different metal moving parts of varying thickness'. Metal expands under heat, and the thicker metals would take longer to get to full operating temperature. I'd imagine all tolerances and gaps are designed to be checked when cold to give the real tolerance once it's reached full operating temperature. For example a gap of 0.15 valve gap when cold would be (I'd imagine) less than that once warmed. I'd be interested to know if forged piston's etc take longer to get to full operating temp than standard piston's.
I can't see why idling for a few minutes would harm an engine if it's followed by a relatively long drive afterwards.
Me personally I've always driven off boost until the engine is warmed up, but now I've got an oil temp gauge I can see how long it takes for oil to start getting to operating temperature I'm sympathetic for longer.
#56
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I start mine pull it out of the garage then turn it off, go lock the garage get back in start it again then drive off, sometimes I **** about doing something and other times I don't, I have to drive slowly for the first couple of miles as I have a half mile dirt track to negotiate and then down a big hill with single track and blind bends so it's done in second gear at 20mph.
Is this good for the engine? who cares if it goes **** up and ***** itself i'll fix it simple, I can't be arsed with all this ******* about wondering if it's good or bad worrying about what may or may not happen, life is too short, I cane the **** out of it when i'm in the mood and when i'm not or have someone in the car I drive like an old man, but I do wait till it's up to temp before I cane it which is something I have always done with every car.
Is this good for the engine? who cares if it goes **** up and ***** itself i'll fix it simple, I can't be arsed with all this ******* about wondering if it's good or bad worrying about what may or may not happen, life is too short, I cane the **** out of it when i'm in the mood and when i'm not or have someone in the car I drive like an old man, but I do wait till it's up to temp before I cane it which is something I have always done with every car.
#58
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what about the diff oils?
heat soak in the top mount?
surely it's better to set off and drive sympathetically until everything is up to working temp, not just the engine oil
not sure what damage (if any) will be caused if just left ticking over, but I have heard about crank probs, don't know if the would have happened if they hadn't been sat ticking over for 10 mins before and after each journey
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