Type R
#1
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In the very near future i will be looking at getting a Impreza Type R.
I know these are an import, how do i go about getting one?
Am i better buying one from a uk owner?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Nick
I know these are an import, how do i go about getting one?
Am i better buying one from a uk owner?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Nick
#2
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I suppose you would be better trying to buy one off this site really as you will know at least an enthusiast has owned it & prob cared for it, alternatively have a look at the traders banners at the top off the screens , iain litchfield, etc or even try warrenders
#4
iain litchfield every time.
best "car salesman" I have ever met.
Am always sceptical when people try to sell me things, but iain has become a friend not someone trying to stay in touch with customers.
Like minded and totally genuine, plus he has heled me with plenty extra stuff since.
I can't recommend a better person to buy a car from.
best "car salesman" I have ever met.
Am always sceptical when people try to sell me things, but iain has become a friend not someone trying to stay in touch with customers.
Like minded and totally genuine, plus he has heled me with plenty extra stuff since.
I can't recommend a better person to buy a car from.
#6
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I got a Type R a few months ago. There are brilliant, much better than the standard Impreza. It is fastest car about! Nothing comes close.
The only downside is the short ratio gear box, it can be a little annoying in traffic, and the fuel it uses. You get about 16 mpg! You will be shells best Optimax customer though.
The only downside is the short ratio gear box, it can be a little annoying in traffic, and the fuel it uses. You get about 16 mpg! You will be shells best Optimax customer though.
#7
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Try Top Marque, looked in there today and there were at least 8 in there for sale, all different versions and prices so must be somthing in there that suits you.
Good luck
simb
Good luck
simb
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#9
Nick,
Look for one that has been exclusively run on SUL/Optimax + octane booster, like all imports it could save you a very expensive bill in the future. Top S/H and quality oil obviously a must too. Avoid a full decat/filter unless it was fitted along with a appropriate remap.
I've had my Type R for 3 years - next Tuesday to be precise and would certainly recommend one. Can't quite work out the logic in using a white undercoat on a black car though
The white one is for sale btw
Look for one that has been exclusively run on SUL/Optimax + octane booster, like all imports it could save you a very expensive bill in the future. Top S/H and quality oil obviously a must too. Avoid a full decat/filter unless it was fitted along with a appropriate remap.
I've had my Type R for 3 years - next Tuesday to be precise and would certainly recommend one. Can't quite work out the logic in using a white undercoat on a black car though
The white one is for sale btw
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2 things: oil pump upgrade essential as a minimum & is feking A as the scoob of choice but appreciate low ratios & potential **** covering (as in oil pump etc to prevent mishaps 100ron etc....
Si
Si
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#14
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Guys, Im MY opinion there is nothing to gain with an oil pump upgrade as the engine failures on Sti Subaru are not oil pump related. Damage to the oil pump is caused AFTER the big end has failed not before.
A world rally car uses standard oil pump internals with just an engineering change to the relief valve for technical purposes which doesn't effect the pressure/delivery rate. Latterly the pump has been re-engineered to turn it upside down so that in an emergency the relief valve and debris plug can be got at without stripping all the front covers off.
In over 100 engine rebuilds last year we fitted just 3 oil pumps all the rest were cleaned and re-assembled and are going fine. If you want to waste your money feel free, but I can think of several other things that would be more worthwhile adding that money to that would have a better overall effect.
No doubt this will cause a comtroversy and a number of replies but that's my opinion based on facts that we have collected in our own experiences.
David APi Engines
A world rally car uses standard oil pump internals with just an engineering change to the relief valve for technical purposes which doesn't effect the pressure/delivery rate. Latterly the pump has been re-engineered to turn it upside down so that in an emergency the relief valve and debris plug can be got at without stripping all the front covers off.
In over 100 engine rebuilds last year we fitted just 3 oil pumps all the rest were cleaned and re-assembled and are going fine. If you want to waste your money feel free, but I can think of several other things that would be more worthwhile adding that money to that would have a better overall effect.
No doubt this will cause a comtroversy and a number of replies but that's my opinion based on facts that we have collected in our own experiences.
David APi Engines
#15
have you an opinion as to what caused the problems with the other 97?
this was a very good thread amongst several that discussed it
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/Forum9/HTML/002503.html
having stripped down 100 engines,what are your thoughts?
this was a very good thread amongst several that discussed it
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/Forum9/HTML/002503.html
having stripped down 100 engines,what are your thoughts?
#16
I think a number of owners have put down an engine failure to a faulty oil pump.......
Changing the pump is a little extreme imo, however I would make sure you run a oil temp and presure gauge to keep an eye on stuff.
Also a knock link is a worthwhile investment as previously listed.
Just make sure you have it regularly checked and setup by someone that knows what they are doing.
The safest measure is to get a remap using either a Link, Gems, Ecutek or Unichip from someone you trust.
Its just piece of mind that the car is setup specifically for the individual mods and changes , which no matter how similar to others will be unique to your car
For a good importer you will be hard pushed to find better than Miguel and NewEra Imports (www.neweraimports.com) . As listed Litchfield Imports have a good reputation by fellow owners also.
For a Link you can speak with Bob Rawle at BR Developments and for a Unichip speak with Owen Developments (www.owendevelopments.co,uk)
Changing the pump is a little extreme imo, however I would make sure you run a oil temp and presure gauge to keep an eye on stuff.
Also a knock link is a worthwhile investment as previously listed.
Just make sure you have it regularly checked and setup by someone that knows what they are doing.
The safest measure is to get a remap using either a Link, Gems, Ecutek or Unichip from someone you trust.
Its just piece of mind that the car is setup specifically for the individual mods and changes , which no matter how similar to others will be unique to your car
For a good importer you will be hard pushed to find better than Miguel and NewEra Imports (www.neweraimports.com) . As listed Litchfield Imports have a good reputation by fellow owners also.
For a Link you can speak with Bob Rawle at BR Developments and for a Unichip speak with Owen Developments (www.owendevelopments.co,uk)
#17
Forgot to say that I believe the white one above is for sale and you will certainly find it hard to get a better example than that..........
Alternatively if this one is already sold, make sure it has a 100% service history since being in the UK......you run the risk of problems if not........
Getting an import from a trusted source direct from Japan is the best option
Alternatively if this one is already sold, make sure it has a 100% service history since being in the UK......you run the risk of problems if not........
Getting an import from a trusted source direct from Japan is the best option
#21
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dba & others, Our opinion is that the failures are directly related to detonation [ pinking] assuming that the owner checks the oil level and so on regularly. Most cherish their cars to death and the first question is always Why?, when I just had it serviced etc etc.
There is a problem with oil changing that progressively weakens the bearings when the first start up after the oil change the engine runs without sufficient oil pressure for short space of time. The engine should be treated thus; change oil, fill new filter brim full and fit, disconnect electric feed to cam angle sensor [ top cam, nearside bank, by the battery ] and spin umtil oil light out for 10 seconds. Reconnect C.A.S. and off you go.
Remember, that even on spin up the motor is rotating at @ 300 rpm = 6 times a second.......... insufficent oil pressure will mark the bearings even at that speed. Multiply that by say 10 services at 60,000 miles and the engine has turned a great number of times with low pressure. The number is much greater if you start it and it runs at 750 / 800 rpm.
The real problem is the quality of fuel. Optimax is as good as it gets but is still wrong. Booster helps of course but to put in a can every fill up is expensive and despite assurances that 'I do it every fill' I am not certain that I believe.
The cure is a remap to UK fuel 97 or 98 or 98.6 optimax. The problem then goes away as a detonation issue and returns to the oil pressure spin up problem. Or even wear and tear on a highly stressed unit with very lightweight components.
Of the 100 plus units not all were Impreza, some Legacy twin turbo, The greatest percentage were no 3 big end, the rest were melted piston crowns; No 2 on Legacys and 1 or 2 on Impreza. These we believe are caused by excess manifold temperatures due to airflow going over the bonnet scoop rather than through it at high road speed.
Thats our data and our opinions.
Keep talking guys
David API
There is a problem with oil changing that progressively weakens the bearings when the first start up after the oil change the engine runs without sufficient oil pressure for short space of time. The engine should be treated thus; change oil, fill new filter brim full and fit, disconnect electric feed to cam angle sensor [ top cam, nearside bank, by the battery ] and spin umtil oil light out for 10 seconds. Reconnect C.A.S. and off you go.
Remember, that even on spin up the motor is rotating at @ 300 rpm = 6 times a second.......... insufficent oil pressure will mark the bearings even at that speed. Multiply that by say 10 services at 60,000 miles and the engine has turned a great number of times with low pressure. The number is much greater if you start it and it runs at 750 / 800 rpm.
The real problem is the quality of fuel. Optimax is as good as it gets but is still wrong. Booster helps of course but to put in a can every fill up is expensive and despite assurances that 'I do it every fill' I am not certain that I believe.
The cure is a remap to UK fuel 97 or 98 or 98.6 optimax. The problem then goes away as a detonation issue and returns to the oil pressure spin up problem. Or even wear and tear on a highly stressed unit with very lightweight components.
Of the 100 plus units not all were Impreza, some Legacy twin turbo, The greatest percentage were no 3 big end, the rest were melted piston crowns; No 2 on Legacys and 1 or 2 on Impreza. These we believe are caused by excess manifold temperatures due to airflow going over the bonnet scoop rather than through it at high road speed.
Thats our data and our opinions.
Keep talking guys
David API
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