MY01PPP experts, please help.
07 January 2002, 10:45 PM
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 5,502
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the reply
The ECU was reset a couple of times by Power Engineering.
The ECU piggy back board is a seperate PCB and has 5 wires that are soldered to the pins that leave the ECU to the wiring loom. These all look okay and the wires are tight. Should I get someone to resolder them all just incase ? Would this mean that the Piggy back board was possibly recieving some feed but not enough ? Would this not bring on the CEL.
Damn this is giving me a headache
Not thought about the MAF sensor. I'll have a look to see if my ITG has knackered it.
Thanks again
Nathan..
Edited to Add the restrictor was apparently changed for the new Prodrive one and the boost is running at 16 PSI.
[Edited by Nathan L - 7/1/2002 11:34:36 PM]
The ECU was reset a couple of times by Power Engineering.
The ECU piggy back board is a seperate PCB and has 5 wires that are soldered to the pins that leave the ECU to the wiring loom. These all look okay and the wires are tight. Should I get someone to resolder them all just incase ? Would this mean that the Piggy back board was possibly recieving some feed but not enough ? Would this not bring on the CEL.
Damn this is giving me a headache
Not thought about the MAF sensor. I'll have a look to see if my ITG has knackered it.
Thanks again
Nathan..
Edited to Add the restrictor was apparently changed for the new Prodrive one and the boost is running at 16 PSI.
[Edited by Nathan L - 7/1/2002 11:34:36 PM]
01 July 2002, 08:49 PM
#2
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 5,502
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry if this goes on a bit. If this has been covered to death please don't flame me, I know the 01 PPP had problems but I didn't have it at the time.
Firstly I have a Euro import so the warranty is useless for this work.
At the start of the year I purchased from Belgium a PPP Piggy back ECU for the 01. This solders to the original ECU, opposed to the straight swap from a UK dealer.
In May I had the piggy back board soldered to the ECU and a fully decatted exhaust system fitted with CEL fix + ITG filter. At first the car was awesome, it went like a train on boost and pulled really, really hard.
About two weeks after getting the work done the power lead for the piggyback ECU came off of the solder joint, this caused the car to missfire really badly and eventually break down.
The wire was soldered back onto the ECU and the car started fine. When I took the car back out it felt really slow. I put this down to the ECU retarding itself for protection and kept driving. The car improved slightly but was never as quick as when the work was first done. I also noticed that the car felt juddery between 2000 and 4000 revs and that the boost felt like it dropped off quickly.
A couple of weeks later I fitted a VTA BOV and this seemed to improve Turbo response but I was still not happy with the car. The juddery sensation was still there and it didn't feel anywhere near as quick as it was.
Today I took the car to Power Engineering for a power test and I wasn't at all suprised (V.Dissapointed though) with the figures of
234 BHP with 219 LB/FT Torque on the first run.
The car was then run on Delta dsah and the ECU contained 2 fault codes. One for the 02 on the Lambda sensor (02 fix board now fitted) and the other for Manifold pessure. These were removed from the ECU and it was reset.
A second run then showed the following result.
248 BHP with 229 LB/FT Torque.
This was better but I know of several cars with the same setup that run well over 280 bhp on the same rolling road.
The rolling road showed that the car was running seriously rich. Mervyn explained that the car started putting too much fuel in the mix at 2000 rpm and this continued to the redline.
I took the car out for an hour to see if it would settle down and did about 40 miles. The car felt crap and was hesitiating all the way through the rev range at first.
After taking the car back to P.E I achieved very similar figures to the first 2 runs as follows.
1. 238 BHP
2. 249 BHP with 230 LB/FT torque.
Again the car was running very rich. It produced lovely flames but power was crap. On the drive home the car missed badly several times over about 2 hours of driving.
If anyone could help It would be greatly appreciated as I am gutted. I know the rolling roads aren't always a true indication of power but the car feels crap too. I have the Delta Dash logs on disk if this helps or if anyone can make sense of them.
Cheers
Nathan..
P.S. To cap it all off I've gone and kerbed a fecking wheel as well [img]images/smilies/mad.gif[/img]
Firstly I have a Euro import so the warranty is useless for this work.
At the start of the year I purchased from Belgium a PPP Piggy back ECU for the 01. This solders to the original ECU, opposed to the straight swap from a UK dealer.
In May I had the piggy back board soldered to the ECU and a fully decatted exhaust system fitted with CEL fix + ITG filter. At first the car was awesome, it went like a train on boost and pulled really, really hard.
About two weeks after getting the work done the power lead for the piggyback ECU came off of the solder joint, this caused the car to missfire really badly and eventually break down.
The wire was soldered back onto the ECU and the car started fine. When I took the car back out it felt really slow. I put this down to the ECU retarding itself for protection and kept driving. The car improved slightly but was never as quick as when the work was first done. I also noticed that the car felt juddery between 2000 and 4000 revs and that the boost felt like it dropped off quickly.
A couple of weeks later I fitted a VTA BOV and this seemed to improve Turbo response but I was still not happy with the car. The juddery sensation was still there and it didn't feel anywhere near as quick as it was.
Today I took the car to Power Engineering for a power test and I wasn't at all suprised (V.Dissapointed though) with the figures of
234 BHP with 219 LB/FT Torque on the first run.
The car was then run on Delta dsah and the ECU contained 2 fault codes. One for the 02 on the Lambda sensor (02 fix board now fitted) and the other for Manifold pessure. These were removed from the ECU and it was reset.
A second run then showed the following result.
248 BHP with 229 LB/FT Torque.
This was better but I know of several cars with the same setup that run well over 280 bhp on the same rolling road.
The rolling road showed that the car was running seriously rich. Mervyn explained that the car started putting too much fuel in the mix at 2000 rpm and this continued to the redline.
I took the car out for an hour to see if it would settle down and did about 40 miles. The car felt crap and was hesitiating all the way through the rev range at first.
After taking the car back to P.E I achieved very similar figures to the first 2 runs as follows.
1. 238 BHP
2. 249 BHP with 230 LB/FT torque.
Again the car was running very rich. It produced lovely flames but power was crap. On the drive home the car missed badly several times over about 2 hours of driving.
If anyone could help It would be greatly appreciated as I am gutted. I know the rolling roads aren't always a true indication of power but the car feels crap too. I have the Delta Dash logs on disk if this helps or if anyone can make sense of them.
Cheers
Nathan..
P.S. To cap it all off I've gone and kerbed a fecking wheel as well [img]images/smilies/mad.gif[/img]
01 July 2002, 09:22 PM
#3
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,404
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hmm sorry to hear about these probs Nath,
My 01 PPP/Decat had 271bhp/264lb at the same RR, one car with same spec on same day had 280ish (PCB's car)
If its already running ritch then deffo take off the dump valve for now.
Have you tried resetting the ECU ? dunno how its done on late cars but sure some tekky will know on here.
Is there any bridging of the solder between pins where you resoldered the leg ? or any bits of solder floating around on the pcb ?
Also check for continuity between the pins on the chip and the pcb, incase of a dry joint.
Use a very fine tipped soldering iron and a tiny amount of flux to resolder all the pins to make nice spinky connections.
Does appear to me that with that kind of power output you have something not working, possibly the +12v or Gnd pins on the chip, also the MAF sensor could be **** up.
I'm sure a dealer would be able to diagnose the problem easy enough, if its a euro import.
If not ScoobySport/TSL/P.E/ etc should be able to sort it I would think.
Good luck
My 01 PPP/Decat had 271bhp/264lb at the same RR, one car with same spec on same day had 280ish (PCB's car)
If its already running ritch then deffo take off the dump valve for now.
Have you tried resetting the ECU ? dunno how its done on late cars but sure some tekky will know on here.
Is there any bridging of the solder between pins where you resoldered the leg ? or any bits of solder floating around on the pcb ?
Also check for continuity between the pins on the chip and the pcb, incase of a dry joint.
Use a very fine tipped soldering iron and a tiny amount of flux to resolder all the pins to make nice spinky connections.
Does appear to me that with that kind of power output you have something not working, possibly the +12v or Gnd pins on the chip, also the MAF sensor could be **** up.
I'm sure a dealer would be able to diagnose the problem easy enough, if its a euro import.
If not ScoobySport/TSL/P.E/ etc should be able to sort it I would think.
Good luck
02 July 2002, 08:48 AM
#4
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nathan
Sounds like you have a problem with the ECU. Who fitted the piggyback board for you? When it is fitted a number of the surface mounted components (capacitors I think) on the existing board have to be bent down to create the space for the piggyback board. Dealers on the continent have had problems with these failing and causing problems. Hence why in the UK Subaru swap the ECU to avoid the garages having to do the fitting.
I'd suggest that you take the car to someone else that has a Prodrive ECU and is willing to let you borrow it. Swap them and take a test drive. This will let you see if the ECU is the problem. If it is, then you'll need to take it to a specialist to get it sorted.
Good luck.
Duncan
PS. The dump valve should not make any difference to the fueling apart from when you back off the throttle (hence the flames). However, it is worth checking that it isn't opening/leaking on boost and causing a problem.
Sounds like you have a problem with the ECU. Who fitted the piggyback board for you? When it is fitted a number of the surface mounted components (capacitors I think) on the existing board have to be bent down to create the space for the piggyback board. Dealers on the continent have had problems with these failing and causing problems. Hence why in the UK Subaru swap the ECU to avoid the garages having to do the fitting.
I'd suggest that you take the car to someone else that has a Prodrive ECU and is willing to let you borrow it. Swap them and take a test drive. This will let you see if the ECU is the problem. If it is, then you'll need to take it to a specialist to get it sorted.
Good luck.
Duncan
PS. The dump valve should not make any difference to the fueling apart from when you back off the throttle (hence the flames). However, it is worth checking that it isn't opening/leaking on boost and causing a problem.
02 July 2002, 10:42 AM
#5
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 5,502
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cheers Duncan
Dump Valve defo not leaking, its brand new and was checked yesterday by Merv at P.E.
What specialist would I have to use to test the ECU if it was faulty? Prodrive?
Nathan..
Dump Valve defo not leaking, its brand new and was checked yesterday by Merv at P.E.
What specialist would I have to use to test the ECU if it was faulty? Prodrive?
Nathan..
02 July 2002, 12:50 PM
#7
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nathan
I'd suggest you talk to Ecutek and see who they'd recommend, or try Prodrive and see if they'll tell you who fits (and tests) the boards for Subaru UK.
Duncan
Beware of the various people who will claim to be able to do this as they may not have experience on the MY01.
I'd suggest you talk to Ecutek and see who they'd recommend, or try Prodrive and see if they'll tell you who fits (and tests) the boards for Subaru UK.
Duncan
Beware of the various people who will claim to be able to do this as they may not have experience on the MY01.
Trending Topics
02 July 2002, 08:26 PM
#10
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Aug 1999
Posts: 3,539
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nathan
Just re-read the thread. Why not pop and see me in Enfield. Borrow my ECU and see what happens? I can chip the key with select monitor no problem. Remeber to bring both keys.
£1600 deposit required Unless someone that I know can vouch for you 
Call me at work.
David
Just re-read the thread. Why not pop and see me in Enfield. Borrow my ECU and see what happens? I can chip the key with select monitor no problem. Remeber to bring both keys.
£1600 deposit required
Unless someone that I know can vouch for you Call me at work.
David
03 July 2002, 08:31 AM
#11
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nathan
Take up Davids offer - it'll sort out where the problem is. Also, when it is on the Select Monitor check to see if there are any other problems logged.
Duncan
Nice to see a "helpfull" dealer for a change
Take up Davids offer - it'll sort out where the problem is. Also, when it is on the Select Monitor check to see if there are any other problems logged.
Duncan
Nice to see a "helpfull" dealer for a change
03 July 2002, 01:24 PM
#12
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,959
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There was a few posts on "dispointing" MY01 PPP's.... and the conclusion was that whoever fitted the PPP forgot to fit the correct sized (sorry i have no idea what this is all about so do a search... :O) restrictor thingymagig that comes with the PPP and this significantly blunted the PPP's performance... Its 1.1mm thick!!
Sounds like thats the prob to me..... but im no techy so someone else needs to explain....
Jza
Sounds like thats the prob to me..... but im no techy so someone else needs to explain....
Jza
03 July 2002, 02:06 PM
#13
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jza
I don't think that is the problem on this car - Nathan mentioned above the boost that he is running and that he changed the restrictor when the kit was fitted.
Duncan
PS Is your car still running well - I seem to remember you had hassles with the first PPP ECU that was fitted.
I don't think that is the problem on this car - Nathan mentioned above the boost that he is running and that he changed the restrictor when the kit was fitted.
Duncan
PS Is your car still running well - I seem to remember you had hassles with the first PPP ECU that was fitted.
03 July 2002, 03:19 PM
#14
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 5,502
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jza
Thanks for the suggestion but the restrictor was alledgedly changed and the boost guage at P.E. is showing 16 + PSI as it should. There is too much fuel in the mix to get proper performance.
Took the car out a while ago and it is sh1te
In second gear at a constant 5000 revs it was juddering all over the place.
Nathan..
Thanks for the suggestion but the restrictor was alledgedly changed and the boost guage at P.E. is showing 16 + PSI as it should. There is too much fuel in the mix to get proper performance.
Took the car out a while ago and it is sh1te
In second gear at a constant 5000 revs it was juddering all over the place.
Nathan..
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
The Joshua Tree
Computer & Technology Related
18
11 September 2015 09:24 PM