Last night I tried a PPP ECU on MY99, plugged in no probs, started her up, idle nearly dropped to stall then picked up but was running very low, after a few seconds it picked up and idle was sorta normal.

My question is, should the gains of a PPP be noticed immediately, or will the ECU have to learn the breathing of my car and RON of the fuel being used (the PPP ecu had been reset as it was off the car a number of hours)
I tested it for 10 minutes or so, would this be long enough?


When I put my original ECU back on, same thing with the idle for the first few seconds, I guess this is a sign the ECU has been reset? (Brown AE801 as standard, my car is decat with HKS Hyper System)

If anyone can help me out on this I'ld be most greatful, I'm after some educated opionions not educated guesses!

Thanks

John

 

The ecu will have to learn and should get better with a few miles on it, ie more than 10. Also vary your driving styles between normal, constant and high revs last.

Sam

 

I do not believe that 10 minutes is enough. After resetting my PPP ECU after swapping exhausts, I reckon it took a tankful of juice to set itself up. However, that was doing normal driving, it may be quicker to set up if you hold it at WOT for a period of time, i.e. up a motorway hill. The ECU can then learn the boost curve and how to control it accordingly. It tends to swing about a bit at full boost (I am talking about the needle on my boost gauge)before it settles down.
Beastie
RB5 PPP

 

agree with both the above.

I have tried a few ecu's in my car and all of them needed a learn period of about 10miles.most obvious is the boost,that will start off a few psi lower than it will finish.I am not too keen going for a thrash during this time and usually drive to a dualc/way or motorway,stick it in top and watch the boost guage,letting the car peak and hold for a few seconds then lifting off and doing it again,until it settles.

should the gains of a PPP be noticed immediately,I take it that you were not that impressed?,I did not feel there was much difference between a my99ecu and the prodrive ecu,it did have more mid range grunt but put this down to the extra psi of boost I gained.

[Edited by T-uk - 7/31/2002 9:15:01 AM]

 

Mega, I believe that the ppp ecu will be in its 'lower' state if it has been off for a while.
When you fit it and run the car it will be in 95 octane mode....you then need to 'drive it like you stole it' so the ecu can see what TF is going on (with sul or opti).

My car took about 60 odd miles to 'set up' after my dealer did ecu re-set, then it sorted itself out and 'back on grunt'.

Try a bit more driving before you give up!

 

Thanks for the info everyone

Looks like it does need some more time to bed in then..

 

I'm sorry, all the above appears to be pure twaddle to me

When I first bought my my00, I ordered the PPP to go on it. As an export customer it wasn't an exchange ecu, but a replacement one.

Because the PPP wasn't covered by my warranty I swapped the ecu's back and forth when it needed to go to the dealer. The improvement was immediately noticeable whenever I swapped the OE ecu for the Prodrive one - more torque, much earlier (this was before I'd made any other mods)

While the my99/00 OE ecu's are different, the same PPP ecu is used for both my's.

All imvho, of course.

Richard

 

Wow

I am suprised at that...

 

Richard, you would see a change though as being a MY00 car you probably have the the lesser performing stock ECU (Black stickered I believe)

John

 

John,

All MY00 owners would wish it were the black labelled ECU. Unfortunately it's the green stickered one they have, which is the less performing of the three modelled ECUs. The black labelled and the brown labelled ECUs are the good ones.

Cheers,

Wrexy.

 

I stand corrected

Again

 

there would be a big difference between a ppp ecu and a my00 ecu,both on boost and off boost,even without the bed in period.I find the my99 ecu a bit more than half way between the two performance wise.

I think the bed in period takes longer if you drive normally,but would not think "driving it like it was stolen" to be very safe.the ignition (i'm told)should be at max advance so if it is going to det it will during this time.

 

Then I too stand corrected

 

While the my00 ecu was undoubtably sh*t compared to my previous my99 car's one I'd traded it for, the PPP was night and day to both

We're talking standard cars here - sure, if you're running an MBC and have improved the breathing then the difference is less (minimal, even ). On a standard car the PPP makes a big, big difference.

You only realise it's limitations once you start sorting the breathing.

Richard

 

The PPP has a few degrees extra advance, and a 2 PSI higher boost target. Fuelling is broadly similar to AE800/1.

Improvements should be noticed immediately, boost increases over the first 10 miles I personally think because you are getting the car hot.

If I pull into a layby and reflash the ECU and then drive again, if the car was fairly warm it goes like stink straight away. There will be subtle learning of timing for a fair bit longer, but I am unaware of any "learning" for boost.

I would estimate that at least 80% of the improvement from the PPP ECU is the extra boost compared with AE800/1.

 

my car doesnt feel fast anymore...
until i REALLY get in the flow.. then it shifts!
agree with john about the car getting hot..

 

Thanks John, I decided against the PPP for the very reason that I really didn't think it would make things improve enough on my car as it is, I'm sure the benefits of the PPP ecu are good if you're going from a standard setup but not so for mine

Tek2 then I rekon