Actuator Rod
#1
Shortening the rod will change the crack pressure of the wastegate - basically the wastegate will remain closed up to a predefined limit - say .6bar - and then be controlled by the boost control system. So if you disconnected it you would always make 0.6bar.
However - shortening the actuator has its limitations as the spring will not be strong enough. I had a 0.8bar actuator - shortened to crack at 1.0bar - however the spring just was not strong enough to control the overall boost profile I wanted to run.
I now have a 1.2bar actuator from Bushey Tuning - which has a very strong spring. Top end boost control is now far superior. Also the boost will hold up much better at higher revs.
So - shortening the acutuator will enable the boost control be better - up to a point - and will enable boost targets to be better held.
Trout
PS To test the crack pressure - fit a pipe to a small pump - you will also need a good boost/pressure guage. Pump it up and you will see at what pressure the acuator opens the wastegate. Remove circlip and shorten - you will then see what pressure you need to get the rod to reach the pivot on the wastegate - this will be your new crack pressure
PPS I am sure this will invalidate your warranty and many rods are 'painted/sealed' to see if they have been adjusted.
[Edited by Trout - 8/5/2002 2:07:43 PM]
However - shortening the actuator has its limitations as the spring will not be strong enough. I had a 0.8bar actuator - shortened to crack at 1.0bar - however the spring just was not strong enough to control the overall boost profile I wanted to run.
I now have a 1.2bar actuator from Bushey Tuning - which has a very strong spring. Top end boost control is now far superior. Also the boost will hold up much better at higher revs.
So - shortening the acutuator will enable the boost control be better - up to a point - and will enable boost targets to be better held.
Trout
PS To test the crack pressure - fit a pipe to a small pump - you will also need a good boost/pressure guage. Pump it up and you will see at what pressure the acuator opens the wastegate. Remove circlip and shorten - you will then see what pressure you need to get the rod to reach the pivot on the wastegate - this will be your new crack pressure
PPS I am sure this will invalidate your warranty and many rods are 'painted/sealed' to see if they have been adjusted.
[Edited by Trout - 8/5/2002 2:07:43 PM]
#2
Stephen,
once above crack pressure the boost control system - solenoid, EBC/ECU will control the amount of wastegate opening to achieve the target boost. This will give a wastegate duty cycle value.
In reality of the actuator spring is strong enough to control the boost being loaded - shortening the rod will only give real value if the WG Duty Cycle was already approaching 100% at peak boost.
Trout
[Edited by Trout - 8/6/2002 7:08:36 AM]
once above crack pressure the boost control system - solenoid, EBC/ECU will control the amount of wastegate opening to achieve the target boost. This will give a wastegate duty cycle value.
In reality of the actuator spring is strong enough to control the boost being loaded - shortening the rod will only give real value if the WG Duty Cycle was already approaching 100% at peak boost.
Trout
[Edited by Trout - 8/6/2002 7:08:36 AM]
#3
Steven,
well at the last count I had 346 horses - do think that would be too many for a ten acre field and three loose boxes
Trout
PS Can I take from the pics that your car is metallic purple?
[Edited by Trout - 8/7/2002 9:37:04 AM]
well at the last count I had 346 horses - do think that would be too many for a ten acre field and three loose boxes
Trout
PS Can I take from the pics that your car is metallic purple?
[Edited by Trout - 8/7/2002 9:37:04 AM]
#4
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Shortened the rod and it seems to work.
Pictures a stages i carried out. Hope this is of some use to others.
Hope the instructions are right. Pick faults if i have done it wrong! But it seems to have helped it reach top boost quicker once past half boost.
Pictures a stages i carried out. Hope this is of some use to others.
Hope the instructions are right. Pick faults if i have done it wrong! But it seems to have helped it reach top boost quicker once past half boost.
#6
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Yeah its probably increase it by .05 or .1 bar in 4th and 5th. Biggest diff to me seems to be once it gets past half boost, about 0.6 bar, it just seems to hold and pickup boost smoothly.
Still hasnt cured the responsiveness below half boost.
Full boost is coming on at about 2700-2800rpm.
I have been running super or optimax now for the last 3 tanks!
Once again David thankyou for telling me to use these.
See ya tomorrow, the weather is gorgeous here at the mo.
Still hasnt cured the responsiveness below half boost.
Full boost is coming on at about 2700-2800rpm.
I have been running super or optimax now for the last 3 tanks!
Once again David thankyou for telling me to use these.
See ya tomorrow, the weather is gorgeous here at the mo.
#7
I have a couple of questions
Do you need to do any other mods before adjusting the actuator?
Also how much did you screw the rod in by?
Does it make a big difference?
Thanks Stuart
Do you need to do any other mods before adjusting the actuator?
Also how much did you screw the rod in by?
Does it make a big difference?
Thanks Stuart
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#8
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Sorry for delay
My mods are
Scoobysport downpipe
Magnex centre
Scoobysport back box
Blitz induction kit
Tek 2 ecu.
The only reason i did the actuator was that the car did not seem to be holding full boost quite so well. It also seemed sluggish from half boost(0.6bar) to full boost(1.15bar).
i was told that the wastgate on the turbo can open at about 8psi which i think is my half boost. By shortening the actuator rod to the wastegate it makes it harder for the wastegate to open, therefore it holds and gains boost better.
I only shortened it half a turn.
Hope this helps
My mods are
Scoobysport downpipe
Magnex centre
Scoobysport back box
Blitz induction kit
Tek 2 ecu.
The only reason i did the actuator was that the car did not seem to be holding full boost quite so well. It also seemed sluggish from half boost(0.6bar) to full boost(1.15bar).
i was told that the wastgate on the turbo can open at about 8psi which i think is my half boost. By shortening the actuator rod to the wastegate it makes it harder for the wastegate to open, therefore it holds and gains boost better.
I only shortened it half a turn.
Hope this helps
#9
Scooby Regular
NOTE:- Most people with std downpipes will have to remove the heatshield from the turbo to expose the actuator, which is a bit of a bstard!
So after tightening 1/2 turn do you have a higher HELD boost now?
How did you stop yourself turnning it a bit more.....and a bit more....
So after tightening 1/2 turn do you have a higher HELD boost now?
How did you stop yourself turnning it a bit more.....and a bit more....
#11
Scooby Regular
Just out of interest, I've been trying to measure the travel on my actuator, while planning possible 'adjustments..'
After a lot of complex messing around (as I still have the heat shield on) I have discovered that the actuator only seems to have a relatively small travel eg about 3mm
I was expecting about twice that
Stephen
MY94 WRX 5-door
TD04 turbo
11 psi boost (std)
or rather brief 13psi peak and 11psi sustained
(I would like 13psi sustained ...)
wastegate is suposed to open or be fully open? when it sees 7 psi
(and the boost solenoid bleeds off boost so that wastegate diaphram effective pressure is less than the manifold boost pressure)
Not sure what happens between 0 and 7psi wastegate diaphram pressure, and whether the wastegate starts to slowly open, or if
it only 'suddnly' opens, to its full travel?, at 7psi
The posts above implie a crack pressure (fair enough) but how much additional pressure, if any, above that do you need to fully open it ?
After a lot of complex messing around (as I still have the heat shield on) I have discovered that the actuator only seems to have a relatively small travel eg about 3mm
I was expecting about twice that
Stephen
MY94 WRX 5-door
TD04 turbo
11 psi boost (std)
or rather brief 13psi peak and 11psi sustained
(I would like 13psi sustained ...)
wastegate is suposed to open or be fully open? when it sees 7 psi
(and the boost solenoid bleeds off boost so that wastegate diaphram effective pressure is less than the manifold boost pressure)
Not sure what happens between 0 and 7psi wastegate diaphram pressure, and whether the wastegate starts to slowly open, or if
it only 'suddnly' opens, to its full travel?, at 7psi
The posts above implie a crack pressure (fair enough) but how much additional pressure, if any, above that do you need to fully open it ?
#12
also remember though that when the boost pushes on the spring it is also pushing the diaphram against atmospheric pressure as well hence the hole on the underside of the actuator so the pressure it opens at also depends on the type of day outside i.e hot or cold and damp.
#15
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Trout,
David can laugh with me, or at me, it doesn't matter......he's from Leeds, so it doesn't count
By the way, my boost was down by about 20% on Sunday, would the actuator mod work for me ? I can't seem to find it though
Mark.
David can laugh with me, or at me, it doesn't matter......he's from Leeds, so it doesn't count
By the way, my boost was down by about 20% on Sunday, would the actuator mod work for me ? I can't seem to find it though
Mark.
#16
Mark,
I'll pop over later to see if I can help you find it - I don't know these amateur modders who don't know their **** from their elbow - fancy not being able to find your acuator rod on your wastegate
Trout
I'll pop over later to see if I can help you find it - I don't know these amateur modders who don't know their **** from their elbow - fancy not being able to find your acuator rod on your wastegate
Trout
#17
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Thanks for the replies guys. Trout thanks for the detailed info, there was no paint on the rod, i checked this 1st. By the way i now know who you are, we did talk on sunday but like a tit i did not introduce myself. We talked around marks car(didnt everyone) similar build to d wallis but shorter and had glasses(not sun) similar hairline to yourself
Dr Hu it does hold boost better. Heatshiled is atwat with standard dp but what you got one of those for
Ps trout email me with where your moving to if you dont mind doing so, as it sounds like you moving very close to me. Do you want any horses for the stables as the missus has 6 and i am trying to get rid of some
Dr Hu it does hold boost better. Heatshiled is atwat with standard dp but what you got one of those for
Ps trout email me with where your moving to if you dont mind doing so, as it sounds like you moving very close to me. Do you want any horses for the stables as the missus has 6 and i am trying to get rid of some
#18
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Location: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
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Pah Mark... Amateur... I told you im not selling you the nitrous, no matter how much you ask... ive got that video of the fiesta beating you here
LMAO @ Actuator rod.
Im going to make some air injectors to control my boost... get some cosworth greys and a plug in compressor, similar to the one tim and plantie had on sunday... Oh and some tin foil and duct tape... thats how its done up north... Besides when trout moves up here.. he will start bodging his car with duct tape as well!
David
LMAO @ Actuator rod.
Im going to make some air injectors to control my boost... get some cosworth greys and a plug in compressor, similar to the one tim and plantie had on sunday... Oh and some tin foil and duct tape... thats how its done up north... Besides when trout moves up here.. he will start bodging his car with duct tape as well!
David
#19
P20SPD,
If you need grazing I also will have a 10 acre paddock
Rental will be very cheap!!
Completely PML@David Wallis - I already bodge things up with Duct Tape!
Trout
If you need grazing I also will have a 10 acre paddock
Rental will be very cheap!!
Completely PML@David Wallis - I already bodge things up with Duct Tape!
Trout
#20
I have looked long and hard in my engine bay to find this actuator thing, trouble is it doesnt seem to be there.
I would ask where it is in relation to the engine and turbo, but since the engien is in garage in bushey and the turbo in a hanger up north somewhere, I dont think its going to help.
I would ask where it is in relation to the engine and turbo, but since the engien is in garage in bushey and the turbo in a hanger up north somewhere, I dont think its going to help.
#21
Oh and david,
since you are moving up north, does this mean we will be seeing you even less?
three times a year or so was already a little too much for me, so this could be a good move for everyone.
since you are moving up north, does this mean we will be seeing you even less?
three times a year or so was already a little too much for me, so this could be a good move for everyone.
#23
Steven,
so instead just having pissing contests about bhp - we can now have pissing contests about acreage - LOL -
Trout
PS I will be near Stamford Bridge - email me at rannoch1@hotmail.com and I will give you more details.
so instead just having pissing contests about bhp - we can now have pissing contests about acreage - LOL -
Trout
PS I will be near Stamford Bridge - email me at rannoch1@hotmail.com and I will give you more details.
#28
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Trout LMFAO at
Problably explains why my scooby is so slow what with only having 6 horses
No its Mica Red Why is it the engine bays do not come anywhere near representing the colour of the car??
well at the last count I had 346 horses - do think that would be too many for a ten acre field and three loose boxes
No its Mica Red Why is it the engine bays do not come anywhere near representing the colour of the car??
#29
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Right i have given it nearly a week now since i did this and have run on super or optimax. Conclusion, the tek2 now works properly again.
Just wait the goodies i have order now. Will i need to remap with uprated fuel pump and aps dump valve or can i wait to remap untill i have the APS induction kit and APS FMIC and if i play my cards right a new turbo
(What did i say the other day "no must not spend money on car". oh Well)
Just wait the goodies i have order now. Will i need to remap with uprated fuel pump and aps dump valve or can i wait to remap untill i have the APS induction kit and APS FMIC and if i play my cards right a new turbo
(What did i say the other day "no must not spend money on car". oh Well)