Few pics that thay may be of interest

modified inlet



Exhuast partly modified


TDO5 front entry mod


isolater plate


isolater matched to port



isolater and manifold


filter


flow chart mod my00 and mod my95 my00 higher flowing


std and mod exhuast


std and mod my00 inlet


std and mod my95



pulley set up



Hope you enjoyed
Steve.

 

Were did u get the filter from ?????

Carlos H.

 

SMG,

superb pics mate - can you email me at rannoch1@hotmail.com I would like to understand more about the porting and the isolator plate - specifically whether there would be any specific issues with Phase II heads.

Keep up the good work.

Trout

 

Carlos
GGR RS500 touring car filter

Steve.

 

Nice informative post Steve

Two questions though,

1 - Where is the difference between MY95 and MY00 heads ?

2 - Is it wise to competely cut back the valve guides ? Especially on the exhaust ? My understanding is that the already short guides on an OHC engine, if shortened will suffer from increased wear. Also, the valves will also run hotter due to reduced cooling via the stem/guide. Is this an issue on the scoob head in your experience ?

Andy

 

Trout YHM

Andy
what you say is right but this is common on engines with rockers as the motion of the rocker opening the valve also pushes it creating a side force which in turn cuases wear, also the wieght of the valve is fare more 8 valve engines etc. With the subaru we have a 6mm stem, lieght valves and buckets on top of the valve so no side forcings and to add an other advantage the valve guide is very long on subaru. Few years back we were always changing guides on race heads that were running agressive cams and massive spring presures ohc,minis,xflows with modern design lighter valves, over valve bucket, because the valve is lighter less sping presure all adds to less wear, we did over come this a bit by using cast iron guides with 1mm K line bronze inserts. On other 4 valve per cyl
heads i have done i have realy munched the guide away and found
no real excess wear. I have still to strip a scoob head thats been ported and had some abuse but expect no problems. Same with heat
i use 1.5mm seat on road heads and 1.3mm on race alot of the heat gets trasfered through the seat. But all said and done if you start
moding to this degree you cant expect it to last as well as a std motor.
Do you want graphs of std my95 and std myoo?
Steve

 

STD my95 std my00


Modified ex manifold


Steve.

 

Cheers Steve

I noticed Ian (UK Legacy Turbo) had also machined away the guides on his heads, if as you say the guides are long anyway then I agree it will not cause a problem.
Re the differences between MY00 and 95 I just wondered if there were visible differences between them or was it more subtle in the casting profile or port volume ?

Andy

 

I notice that the gains seem mostly to be above 0.320" lift. The next question has to be, how much lift does the std cams get?
Have you ever done any testing on engines with various camshafts, with increased duration and lift, to make the most of the higher flowing heads. The exhaust mods seem to help more throught the lift range though.
With mechanical lifter heads, there could be some quite aggressive profiles made, that would really maximise airflow, without increasing overlap too much, if at all.
What are the profiles like, that the wrc cars use? Would they be suitable for a road car, bearing in mind the wrc cars produce most of their grunt in the midrange which would be ideal for a road car, and without the restrictor in place, the road car would still easily be able to rev.

 

Stevie
std cams ive come across are bstween .310 to .355, i am doing an
engine that will be running some .460 lift cams with 264 duration
so this will be interesting. WRC cars that ive had involvment with
use a differant head that has smaller throats and this does give
a better flow through the hole range until about .370 and the cams
that were being used had .370 lift.
Steve.

 

Andy the phase 2 is a slightly differant shape but the main improvment is around the v/seat area and the short side of the valve throat.
I will put some pics up later showing the differences.
Steve.

 

Where can we get these cams?? They are bound to be a massive improvement even on a std engine??
Would it really be worth getting a set of Ph2 heads to modify, or all the early ones just as good, once modified ( bearing in mind the car already has Ph1 , so it would be hassle to change )
Also, do you have any opinions on re-grinding cams for subarus? or are blanks the best option. Im sure that some major shims could be involved to get valve clearances again after regrinding, and if hydraulic, would the cam even be close enough to the lfter anymore after re-grinding?


[Edited by ustolemyname??stevieturbo - 8/25/2002 11:33:33 AM]

 

You can still use phase 1 for good results just more work to be done to get there. I would regrind std cams, blanks are megger money
and are better for shimmimg reasions, normally grind a cam them
parcoluberize it that just helps oil stick. Most cam wear occours
on start up, when fitting knew cams i will hold engine at about
2k get some oil up there never found cam wear a prob. Several differant ways of doing the shimming one way involves using your
std hydrolics with some mods. As a rough guide to get an idear
of the shim you will have to use this may help. The base circle
is the part of the lobe that is half circle where the valve
clearance is taken, what ever increace in lift you have ground on
the lobe will be removed from the base circle, duration will effect
this as well. So if you have .310 lift and your knew profile has
.410 expect a good .100 to be gone from the base circle. This is why it is better to use a blank.
I personaly will port a head match the cams to the ports flow capability and would think twise about using more than 270 duration
on a turbo road or race.
Steve.

 

Thats pretty big shims, but with solid lifters, easily done. What is involved in getting hydraulic cams to meet up with the camshaft again??. UKLegacyT posted a while ago, that Kent or Piper where doing regrinds at around £220+vat I think, which is very reasonable ( im sure he said for 4 ). Its the material removed from the base circle that was worrying me, but I would like a bit more lift, but it will take the cam a good bit away from the lifter. Subarus tend not to need much duration, and as far as I know the std cams are quite short ( around 250deg? )
Taken from the Kent site.

Sub Ver 4 SUB01 Sports 'R' 2000-6000 8.55mm 8.55mm 262 Deg 19/63 63/19 112/112 Deg 0.00mm Valve clearance
Sub Ver 4 SUB02 Sports 'R' 2000-6500 8.66mm 8.41mm 249 Deg 15/54 54/15 110/110 Deg 0.25mm
Sub Ver 4 SUB03 Supersports 2500-7000 9.29mm 9.04mm 260 Deg 20/60 60/20 110/110 Deg 0.25mm
Sub Ver 5&6 SUB04 Supersports 2500-7000 10.33mm 10.08mm 272 Deg 26/66 66/26 110/110 Deg 0.25mm

 

That sub 01 you could prob use that on hydrolics they have about 1mm operating range but you can end up with a ratly top end. That is a mild cam would not expect to much from that.
Sub 04 looks ok timming figures look good idle should be ok as overlap and valve opening is still minimal. With adjustable cam pulleys you can alter overlap and valve timming which will let you
change the power band through the rev range. The more overlap you have it will tend to push the power up top because of the valves being open at the same time at tdc some of the cylinder fill will escape through the exhaust, but the right degree of overlap is needed to use the exhaust pulse to suck incoming charge into the cyl, this is were development work comes into play. Im not saying this is the way to make solid lifters, but it will work, the face of the lifter will need to be good before you start, bang it on a hard surface hydro part will come out, scrap that bit. You know need some silver steel that will go in place of the hydro part
(prob 13mm o/d depends on the lifter type) this can be made to suit your v/clearance and will still remain fairly light wieght.
Machined surfaces should be very smooth to reduce wear. You can
harden it by getting it very,very hot and droping into dirty oil,
i used to do this but dont bother any more never had a real wear prob. It will be an idear to tig up the oil feed holes in the lifter as thay could cause it to pump up. I have not gone this route on a subaru, but have on vuaxhalls and cossies.
Steve.

 

Bucket and shim centre is titanium for lightness




Tig weld to stop punp up


std my95

std my 00

std my95 inlet


std my00 inlet

std my00 ex

std my95 ex



Steve.

 

SMG.. for your graphs... Press ALT + Print Screen Whilst in your flow program... Then paste into any graphics program and upload...

Drop me a mail if this doesnt make sense!

David

 

Cheers Dave....YHM.

 

steve, some great piccies there mate, excellent work

i want to go the cams route, but was advised otherwise
stevieturbo, yeah thats correct, piper regrind are £216+vat for all four, which i think is cheap!
however, i sent them to piper, then was advised to get them back asap untouched by clive at rcdevelopments, which i did.
he said that they would not last two minutes, wear out etc, and could even damage the engine??

i dont want to pay 850+vat for blanks, so regrinds are only option

ian.

p.s. steve (smg), did you get the piccies of my heads in the end?

 

The MY95 inlet shrouding looks mostly like the valve seat?? The My95 std exhaust actually look better, or is it just the photo??
Ian, along similar lines with the hydraulic, if you could get a longer ballstud, for the top of the lifter, then regrinding may be an option, hopefully the valvetrain geometry wouldnt be too messed up, as long as they dont go too far with the lift.
Have you actually spoke to piper to see what they say regarding the problem? Can you post the specs of the piper cams again?
Would it be possible to modify the impreza hydraulic lifter, and still retain the hydraulic function, to save any hassles with valve clearances? or is going solid the only option ( better option?? )
Great work Steve, keep it up. Just how busy are you modifying heads? any timescale on possible modifications for customers?

 

Ian no pics mate that acount was full, by the time i cleared it there was nothing, try the other one.
Stevie dont think you will have much luck with retaining the hydro
function solid much safer idea. Booked up for about 2 months with big jobs mate, i do have a nice set of phase 1 heads and cams that ive been moding, sorting some cams is not a prob as we are a autherised piper dealership im sure we could help you out with piper or kent profile. These heads will be up for grabs. Photos
are a bit dodge, my00 is a nicer port, on the inlet (hard to get pic) the short side radious is smoother and this makes a hell of a difference.
Steve.

 

Stevieturbo,
yes i spoke to gary at piper cams, he said he had never heard of any problems with the subaru regrinds. i didnt have any specs at all, he just said it was a fast road regrind with more lift and duration.
steve, i'll send some pics to your other address now mate


p.s. any of you know, the rods, half way up one side of the rod is a little lump, does this face the front of the engine? its been about soddin 6wks since i took em off

 

I think there is a subaru logo, which goes to the front.

 

nice one, cheers

steve, it says your address is too long and needs to be less than 16 characters...wont send
i'll try your normal one again

ian

 

SMG, Didnt you say with a little work a hydraulic(sp) cosworth lifter could be used??

David

 

welcome back david. I think the cossies ones fit if you have larger hydaulic followers, 32mm nominal OD, pre97 are 30mm I believe.

You should be able to turn up some bits to convert yours.

P

 

David as pavlo says , you should be able to machine some up yours
will be the smaller ones.
Steve.

 

So, Correct me if im wrong but the heads I have are good enough, and I can flow these and add some wild cams? with machined cosworth lifters?



hmm rods and pistons...

 

I emailed kent. They are asking £1100 for a set of cams, and £420 for vernier pulleys. Not sure if that includes VAT or not.
Only one of their profiles ( SUB01 is suitable for hydraulic )
At that price they must be on blanks, which should make shimming much easier. Just which profile to go for???

 

Call me stupid (im asking for this one)

If I dont use hydraulic's do you just shim them up with solid ones?? also was the other bit about welding up the hole with to regard to making them solid lifters??

Or am I being stupid today?

David