ScoobyJawa

How do you pressure test the actuator to see at what point it cracks open at? Anyone done this and can run me through it/step by step etc?

Ta muchly!
Neil

nom

At a guess...
disconnect the boost solenoid, floor it, & see what happens to the boost gauge! Probably worthwhile flooring it rather cautiously seeming the 'interesting' boost you're getting at the moment though if the actuator is set to open at 1.6 bar or something (not convinced it can, unless there's been an accident with a welder...).
The boost will be limited to the actuator opening pressure, so, well, the boost gauge should read that.
I think I'm going in circles now so I'll shut up

ScoobyJawa

Thanks Nom - interesting boost - thats one way of putting it

Right, so talking about the t-piece to actuator, turbo and solenoid, if I remove the one going to the solenoid and test it. I assume the pipe to the solenoid should be blocked up once removed to allow the pressure to build (sounds obvious I know, but just to make sure! )

I'm assuming anywhere around 0.7 bar ish would be about right to hit on an MY99 with the solenoid disconnected (seems to be the figure everyone mentions!). Must also check the restrictor to make sure its 1.2.

[Edited by ScoobyJawa - 12/17/2002 11:07:18 PM]

AlanG

You can buy a tool called a Mity-vac which allows you to create vacuum and pressure for measurement purposes.

Good automotive retailers should be able to source one for you. Failing that, RS do them

Alan

AlanG

Alternatively run a 4mm ID hose between turbo outlet and wastegate actuator.

Alan

nom

I think - except for possible crud getting into places it shouldn't be (except I don't think you'll have it running like this for long enough) - that you should just be able to pop the little hose off that goes into the actuator. Easiest place to explain it - then the onlt thing controlling the boost is the actuator!
And it's 7psi / 0.5 bar, AFAIK. But as long as it's not wayyy off, it shouldn't be doing what it's doing!

dowser

Nom - you'd have no boost control at all if you remove the hose which normally provides the pressure to operate the actuator....this is, however, a very good way of ensuring your fuel cut is operational (joke - v.dangerous if you have FC removed...)

If you've a known gauge, then just run the pipe between turbo and actuator, as Alan mentioned.

Richard

ScoobyJawa

Thanks Richard/Alan - I'll give it a try at lunch, I have some boost piping long enough to reach between the turbo and actuator so I'll see where the wastegate is opening - hopefully might explain my somewhat high boost on the new turbo

ScoobyJawa

Ok - as far as I can tell from the defi gauge which I know is pretty damn accurate, I've measured this using the hose between the turbo and actuator.

The defi gauge was holding 0.6kg/cm and when I pulled up the peak indicator on the gauge was showing just over 0.65 - just under 0.7. So this would appear to be set right then for the TD04. Gotta find other reasons then why the boost is so high!

[Edited by ScoobyJawa - 12/18/2002 1:13:17 PM]

john banks

They should be about 0.5 bar. Whatever, I support the other comments about getting the duty cycle map changed to suit the new turbo.

ScoobyJawa

John,

I will be getting the car remaped but want to wait until I can get a 3 port etc to make the remap worth its while. After the expense of the new turbo, fitting and a 60k service due next month this is not going to be something I can do straight away I will have to use a dawes to keep the pressure at what I want it to be for the time being - like Saxo Boy really, as we have very similar set-ups.

This remap for the turbo stuff confuses me though. My car is set to run a TD04. I get a new one from the factory, bog standard (actuator set around 0.55bar so as near as dammit to what you said), same turbo so surely it should work fine?
If I was still running on the AE800 with no mods then what you are saying should mean that also fitting this new turbo would surely have caused issues with that too? but I can't see a Subaru dealership remapping the car or altering duty cycles, as far as I am aware, they would take out, put in, reset the ECU and on your way??????
Now the TEK2 I have is a generic to cover alot of cars/mods and the TD04, albeit they will vary slightly between cars too, so in essence its like the Subaru ECU but with higher values but designed to fit a lot of cars/setups (as in a limited way the AE800 does). I can't understand that, is my set up that different from others that it should cause problems? Ok my car has a slightly higher boost target than TEK2 but that is all they changed, the rest is still based on the generic map.

Please don't think I'm getting at you, or questioning your opinion, as I'm not, nor am I having a go , I'm just trying to get this all straight in my head as it confuses the hell outta me!!!

Cheers
Neil.

[Edited by ScoobyJawa - 12/18/2002 2:43:59 PM]

[Edited by ScoobyJawa - 12/18/2002 2:45:07 PM]

dowser

But that all goes out the window if you have the 'new' td04, and it's different from the old. Are the spoolup characteristics different?

If so, I guess it's spooling earlier (and is why the tek2 map can't catch it) - I'm sure you could find someone willing to take the td04 you have off your hands for the their 'old' style td04....which will probably work fine with your tek2

Richard

ScoobyJawa

Richard - that much is true I still haven't found out how to check if its an MY01+ TD04 or the classic shape one. As this will indeed change things As for spool up - I've not really checked as I was too afraid to put my foot down!
Still, I'll use the dawes for now, as I do plan on getting a remap after fitting the 3 port and a then getting it custom done to the car.

Also, restrictor at the moment is the standard MY99 one (1.2mm??? I think, new one looked identical to old one) but Merv has mentioned checking its 1.3?????? This would reduce the boost would it not?

Cheers
Neil (complete muppet at technical things! )

[Edited by ScoobyJawa - 12/18/2002 3:41:29 PM]

john banks

Neil, I don't understand it either unless the new turbo is different or there was a longstanding problem with the old one which meant that your map was appropriate for it and not the new one.

ScoobyJawa

Phew - thats ok then at least I'm not alone! Perhaps the new one is slightly different then - strange! I'll see how I get on, ECU reset and solenoid clean tonight, then poss a 1.3mm restrictor instead of 1.2 and see what that does.......

ScoobyJawa

I've cleaned the boost solenoid and unpluged the ECU.

While I was out there I took the liberty of comparing the turbo's. The new one is different to the old. The wastegate actuator is more angled away from the turbo output pipe towards the driver and also it is more angled on the vertical plane backwards - top part nearer the driver. On the old one it is much more vertically and horizontally squared up - if that makes sense? So perhaps it is an MY01 TD04.......???????

dowser

What are the model numbers of each? Should be stamped on the compressor outlet pipe.

Richard

ScoobyJawa

Which pipe is that Richard? Is it the one that goes to the intercooler?

HAving done all that last night, its made no difference and I'm still getting the same high boost. I did notice though that in 5th I've got a full 1 bar by 2.2k revs On the old turbo was more like 2.6/2.7k.........

ScoobyJawa

Had a look at the new turbo, there are some numbers cast into the exhaust housing but they are quite hard to read. There are some other numbers on the clasp between the exhaust and compressor housing. These say 1J1 04H.

ScoobyJawa

On the old turbo, in the same place it says:

8h1 04H

dowser

He-he - I'll swap you a standard td04 fot the turbo you've got now

Basically, it sounds like the fugly 04's are better than the classic ones - giving boost much earlier. You're hitting overboost because the boost maps you're running expect the turbo to start spooling by 2k5

Seriously - I can have a classic style td04 to you by 27th, all your problems will disappear...let me know

Richard

ScoobyJawa

Cool!

Erm, as much as I'd like to swap , being as its now on the car already - I best get it in to Merv at PE for a fettle instead

I've put a Dawes on until I can see him, holding the boost back to 1.2/1.25.

Cheers for the help

dowser

No worries