Fatman

I've heard that cars fitted with the HKS front-mounted intercooler may require a new dump valve. Is this true? I'm going to be fitting the HKS with an uprated turbo (not yet chosen). Currently I have the OE turbo (MY00 => TD04 ?). So, I'm wondering if the dump valve will need uprating to vent additional air.

Any suggestions? Is it even necessary? Given the choice, I'd rather keep a recirculating type, by the way. Any recommendations?

DubaiNeil

AFAIK due to the extra pipework required for the FMIC you will need to remove the airbox at least. The dumpvalve seems less likely to me, but when mine was installed (APS version not HKS) APS stated the requirement for a dumpvalve as well.
This was all installed as part of a 'kit' and I didn't want to diverge from their spec - mainly 'cos I am a long way away from any help! The APS version is a dual port, which vents internally in 'normal' driving, and externally when 'pressing on'
Most of the increased noise comes from the replacement air filter rather than the dump valve anyway!

Fatman

I already have a K&N induction kit fitted, so the airbox removal isn't relevant . I was more concerned about the ability of the OE dump valve to shift the extra air than the fitment.

What has been your experience of the performance of the APS valve (not the noise)?

chrome

fatman: I might have bagged an SSQV for mine ...
its in the FMIC "destructions" on the pic connected directly to the pipework..

not got it to hand to post a pic tho

I hear it can be a bad thing to do this.. anyone car to enlighten me?

[Edited by chrome - 7/22/2003 10:25:13 PM]

Fatman

The SSQV is a VTA valve, isn't it? I'm after a recirc type.

chrome

thought there was a recirc piece availabe for the SSQV ??
Im probably wrong tho..


can anyone correct me?

Cord

The standard dumpvalve (that bolts directly to the intercooler) will not fit on the HKS front mount unless you make some kind of an adapter, as seen on this page. Or you could use the MRT Plumback Recirculating, also seen on this page.
http://www.jap-innovations.fsnet.co.uk/Main/Products/Engine/EngineDumpValves.html

DubaiNeil

The APS seems fine so far (only been on for approx 1000km's tho). Its not ridiculously noisy, and the idle seems stable. On my SECS the idle 'wanders' a bit, but it did this as standard anyway - you don't see anything on the rev counter, but the numbers change from (approx) 750 rpm to 820 rpm.
I don't know if it is a factor of the dump valve or the cold air intake, but the lambda reading goes shooting up to 1.50 when I change gear when driving 'hard'!
Would I revert to a standard dump valve if I could? Probably
Do I want to mess with a 'kit' which has been tested to function with these parts? - definately not!
The major issue I have is identifying what part has made what difference. As so much stuff was changed in one go, I cannot really state categorically what the impact of each is. If I had the opportunity (and unlimited time and money!) I would have fitted the parts one at a time, but back in the real world this was not possible.
One thing I have noticed with the FMIC, is that the lag is not noticeably worse than before, which surprised me. Sure, accelerating from 1500rpm takes time, but thats why I have a gearbox! Now this impact may hav been 'softened' by the increased torque from the 3" exhaust system.

Do I still want more power - oh yes indeedy!

TBMeech

Am sure I read horror stories of the MY99 pipework being a bit pony too, as the d/v cannot seat to the FMIC properly, thus leaking, the way I got around this was to obtain older pipework from a MY97/98 car, this allows me to run my Forge Re-Circ inline (Still using the bolt to i/c type with no probs) and the MRT adaptor.