andypugh2000

How easy are the turbo studs to replace if you break one trying to change the downpipe?? I can't wait for weeks to fit my new system and thinking of doing it myself but hear stories of snapped studs

greasemonkey

They're tw*ts to get out of the turbo, and that's an understatement. If you shear one near the flange, your only options are either drilling it out and cleaning the threads up with a tap (10 x 1.25 I think), or welding a nut onto the end of it so you can get some purchase and try to turn it out. Even then, you'll have to get the turbo casting red/white hot before they'll shift.

However, this is all worst-case scenario stuff. They should undo alright, especially if the heatshield has kept them away from moisture.

If in doubt, drive for a couple of days frequently squirting a little penetrating oil onto the nuts and stud threads before trying to undo them. It'll smoke and stink for a while of course but the heat should help the oil to penetrate and ease.

andypugh2000

cheers greasmonkey, will give it a try, was hoping they wouldnt be too rusty as the car has been garaged fromm new and its a MY98

andypugh2000

just went out and removed the intercooler and and had a go at the heatsheild, what a ba$tard it is to get at the two lower nuts, i guess these have to be done from under the car??

gave the lambda sensor a good drowning in WD40 so hope that comes out easy.

andy

harvey

iTrader: (48)

Before you start the job it would be worth getting three spare studs from your dealer so you have them if needed. The thread is 1.25 pitch and from memory the studs are about £3 each.

greasemonkey

While we're on the subject Harvey, do you have any better ideas on removal than I could come up with? Would be nice to know if there's an easier way

Andy - you can get to the lower two from above with a ratchet, but you've got to feel around a bit. Suggest using something like 3 in 1 oil in preference to the WD40, as the aerosol based oils will burn off much quicker. 3 in 1 will as well, but with a bit of luck more of it will get into the threads before it does so

[Edited by greasemonkey - 8/21/2003 3:03:10 PM]

harvey

iTrader: (48)

It is a ball acher of a job. Only practical advice I can give you is that it is far easier if you have access to a ramp and proper equipment. Wish I could be more helpful.

David_Wallis

I think its harder on a ramp..

Ive done loads never snapped a stud off completely... allways been able to get a nut on still..

Only ever snapped one.. Heat helps.. as does a good 14mm spanner.

David

greasemonkey

Cheers Harvey. If nothing else it's comforting to know there isn't an easier way I've missed out on.

andypugh2000

I still can't see how the lower heat sheild bolts can be removed with out the use of a ramp, I have a pair of the old halfords drive up metal ramps that get the beast up about 16 inches at the front, that should help, stick a trolley jack under the rear and should have a nice bit of elevation. doing the job saturday all being well.

greasemonkey

Heat shield bolts will definitely come off from the top. Seem to recall a ratchet and socket with a 3" extension was all I used.

However, if you're going to change the downpipe, you still need good access under the car, so either way the ramps would come in handy.

jonny gav

iTrader: (1)

i have snapped a few studs in my time too!

its a good idea to give them a good soaking in WD for a few hours before you start the job.

never snapped one doing this

andypugh2000

*******Update*******

Changed the downpipe and whole system yesterday for an HKS super drager and had no problems.......?? Except the two lower heat shield bolts that are attached to the turbo downpipe were only accessible from putting the car up in the air, just in case I snapped a stud I went to Subaru and waited for 35 minutes for them to determine the correct studs. Anyway, I took off the heat shield then drowned the studs/nuts/bolts in plus gas as this is supposed to be more penetrating that WD40, then ran the engine with no intercooler on idle for ten mins to get them hot, then drowned the studs again in plus gas and set to work, all came undone with a lot of sweating over a hot turbo and all from above the car with a quality 14mm spanner, I was told to heat it up by a very well known engine tuner on Friday night as this would make the process a lot easier, very pleased to have managed it with no problems.


andy