Information on engine stutter
06 June 2000, 05:31 AM
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I am after as much information/facts on the following subject. Please try and keep it to the point as I am hoping to print it of and take it with me to the garage on the 14th.
Car, MY99 April, RB5 No41 (non WR), scoobysport back box, standard air filter, 8300miles, run on brand SUL.
On going saga as follows. Car has what can be described as a stutter/surging problem. Most noticable around 2900rpm in 2nd and not so but also in 5th. Feels like pumping the throttle but not if that makes any sense. Has done before and after exhaust change.
Also has a tendancy to lose all power but not cut out. An intermittant problem, drive the car and then stop for a short period. Start up and drive no more than 200yards, car dies, push down the throttle, after a few seconds it clears and car takes of like a rocket. Can never get it to repeat it if I stop it again. Have now got in to the habit of starting the car and letting idle for a minutes before moving after a nasty scare when I tried nipping out in front of a Range Rover, left wallowing in the middle of the road until it cleared. Have noticed even starting from cold the engine sometimes gets very lumpy and the revs drop right of then clear.
Finally got the garage to believe me(have since gone bust,did not help me,but serves them right)and called in field engineer. Car has now had 2x Air flow meters, 1x Lambda sensor and a new ECU with a different fuel map. Still not 100%, hence the 14th with engineer again.
I know this topic has been discussed many times before and ideas/fixes have been put down to leaking hoses, Lambda sensors, fuel flushing and so on. What I am after is hard facts to arm myself with. i.e. Dealership, fixes, Car year etc. So When they try and say that this a one of, but they have heard of it from other dealership in Europe again( same production lines?). I can disagree shall we say.
Regards Al
[This message has been edited by Al Harcombe (edited 06-06-2000).]
Car, MY99 April, RB5 No41 (non WR), scoobysport back box, standard air filter, 8300miles, run on brand SUL.
On going saga as follows. Car has what can be described as a stutter/surging problem. Most noticable around 2900rpm in 2nd and not so but also in 5th. Feels like pumping the throttle but not if that makes any sense. Has done before and after exhaust change.
Also has a tendancy to lose all power but not cut out. An intermittant problem, drive the car and then stop for a short period. Start up and drive no more than 200yards, car dies, push down the throttle, after a few seconds it clears and car takes of like a rocket. Can never get it to repeat it if I stop it again. Have now got in to the habit of starting the car and letting idle for a minutes before moving after a nasty scare when I tried nipping out in front of a Range Rover, left wallowing in the middle of the road until it cleared. Have noticed even starting from cold the engine sometimes gets very lumpy and the revs drop right of then clear.
Finally got the garage to believe me(have since gone bust,did not help me,but serves them right)and called in field engineer. Car has now had 2x Air flow meters, 1x Lambda sensor and a new ECU with a different fuel map. Still not 100%, hence the 14th with engineer again.
I know this topic has been discussed many times before and ideas/fixes have been put down to leaking hoses, Lambda sensors, fuel flushing and so on. What I am after is hard facts to arm myself with. i.e. Dealership, fixes, Car year etc. So When they try and say that this a one of, but they have heard of it from other dealership in Europe again( same production lines?). I can disagree shall we say.
Regards Al
[This message has been edited by Al Harcombe (edited 06-06-2000).]
06 June 2000, 04:00 PM
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I had the cold starting problem on my car. (revs drop almost to the point of stalling then pick-up to the 'usual' cold-start speed). I traced it back to the little non-return valve (rubber disk) on the manifold side of the cold-start valve.
The valve was a bit dirty (carbon looking deposits) and after cleaning it there have been no problems. My car had been messing about for two weeks before I cleaned it (During which time the plugs were changed and the air-flow meter cleaned - with no change).
I hope this may help.
Simon
The valve was a bit dirty (carbon looking deposits) and after cleaning it there have been no problems. My car had been messing about for two weeks before I cleaned it (During which time the plugs were changed and the air-flow meter cleaned - with no change).
I hope this may help.
Simon
06 June 2000, 07:39 PM
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ransj, i've had the same problem on my 95 wrx could you tell me were the cold start vavle is you were talking about ,i've tried to find it but haven't got a clue what i'm looking for,cheers.
07 June 2000, 08:17 AM
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Nick,
The cold start valve is located to the right of the throttle butterfly assembly on the inlet manifold. Number 10 in the drawing on Glenn's website.
To remove it you will need to remove the three hoses (One c.15mm air hose and two c.5mm coolant hoses) from the cold start valve body and then remove the bolts which hold the valve to the inlet manifold. You may need to loosen the intercooler mounts and outlet pipe to get access to the lower bolt.
Once undone, remove the actuated valve and clean it out with brake cleaner or similar. Then have a look inside the recess on the inlet manifold and you will see the small check-valve (non-return). This is a small perforated disk with a rubber washer riveted to the back. This is the bit which gets clogged up and causes the cold-start problems. All you need to do is remove this and clean it, be careful not to bend the small hair-spring.
When you re-assemble everything make sure you tighten up all of the pipe clips (in particular the coolant and intercooler).
I hope this is of some help.
Simon
[This message has been edited by ransj (edited 07-06-2000).]
The cold start valve is located to the right of the throttle butterfly assembly on the inlet manifold. Number 10 in the drawing on Glenn's website.
To remove it you will need to remove the three hoses (One c.15mm air hose and two c.5mm coolant hoses) from the cold start valve body and then remove the bolts which hold the valve to the inlet manifold. You may need to loosen the intercooler mounts and outlet pipe to get access to the lower bolt.
Once undone, remove the actuated valve and clean it out with brake cleaner or similar. Then have a look inside the recess on the inlet manifold and you will see the small check-valve (non-return). This is a small perforated disk with a rubber washer riveted to the back. This is the bit which gets clogged up and causes the cold-start problems. All you need to do is remove this and clean it, be careful not to bend the small hair-spring.
When you re-assemble everything make sure you tighten up all of the pipe clips (in particular the coolant and intercooler).
I hope this is of some help.
Simon
[This message has been edited by ransj (edited 07-06-2000).]
07 June 2000, 10:09 PM
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RB5 WRSport 8K miles SUL.
I get the engine stutter but only slightly in 5th under half to full throttle, I have never noticed it in lower gears. I have always assumed that this is the 'Over boost' problem. The car also surges slightly when cold, but I think this is not atypical, it never surges when hot.
Sorry I cannot help with your problems other than to point out it is not typical on all RB5's WRSport or not.
Please post the results when you have got a fix.
Mick
I get the engine stutter but only slightly in 5th under half to full throttle, I have never noticed it in lower gears. I have always assumed that this is the 'Over boost' problem. The car also surges slightly when cold, but I think this is not atypical, it never surges when hot.
Sorry I cannot help with your problems other than to point out it is not typical on all RB5's WRSport or not.
Please post the results when you have got a fix.
Mick
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