Quickshift
#1
I just fitted a quickshift to my 96UK turbo and what a vast improvement it has made. It feels more positive and precise. This has to be the best value upgrade at £60 and easy to fit too. Got it from Falkland Performance at Glenrothes.
Cheers Stratman
Cheers Stratman
#2
Hmmm...if yours only cost 60 quid how come mine cost 300 plus from my Subaru dealership in Penicuik when I bought my car new last year ??
Is it exactly the same product i.e.have I been ripped off ??
Rico
Is it exactly the same product i.e.have I been ripped off ??
Rico
#3
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I was thinking the same thing - I always thought the price was between £200 - £300.
While we're on the subject, can anyone explain exactly what they do when a quick shift is fitted? I've been considering this for my car and I've heard good things - would there be a big difference on a MY00 car?
Cheers
Chris
[This message has been edited by Chris L (edited 09-06-2000).]
While we're on the subject, can anyone explain exactly what they do when a quick shift is fitted? I've been considering this for my car and I've heard good things - would there be a big difference on a MY00 car?
Cheers
Chris
[This message has been edited by Chris L (edited 09-06-2000).]
#4
The quickshift I fitted comprises a replacement shift lever which is identical to the original except that the gear change linkage attaches to a point slightly higher, or further away, from the pivot than that of the original, thus reqiuring less travel of the gear shift lever.
The replacement shift lever was £60 plus vat to be exact,from Falkland Performance.
30 mins to fit, and all you will need circlip pliers and a screw driver.
The replacement shift lever was £60 plus vat to be exact,from Falkland Performance.
30 mins to fit, and all you will need circlip pliers and a screw driver.
#6
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Cheers Stratman
So in answer to Rico's question - yes we're being ripped off by the dealers
Unless the dealer fit has something extra??
So in answer to Rico's question - yes we're being ripped off by the dealers
Unless the dealer fit has something extra??
#7
Chris
see if you can have a go in a MY00 that has it fitted because I dont think it makes that much of a difference to warrant £240, the throw on a my00 is pretty short anyway.
Cheers
Iain
see if you can have a go in a MY00 that has it fitted because I dont think it makes that much of a difference to warrant £240, the throw on a my00 is pretty short anyway.
Cheers
Iain
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#8
I also have a quick shift on MY94 WRX, my brother bought one for £100 for his wrx, when you compare them together the difference is the hieght the bracket welded on is set at, i took his old lever to a welding company, they cut and rewelded the bracket back on for £10, this done i then fitted it to mine, and hey presto a quickshift too.
The only bother if you do it to your own lever, is if it goes wrong or you don't like it you have to get another lever.
This worked for me and i saved £90, not bad !
Cheers
The only bother if you do it to your own lever, is if it goes wrong or you don't like it you have to get another lever.
This worked for me and i saved £90, not bad !
Cheers
#9
my dealer will do me a quickshift for £245 fitted incl vat.
this is the standard price of £211 + fitting, which should be no more than an hour i'm told.
i'm still tempted to get one on my MY00 as the MY99 i drove before purchasing which had one fitted via a prodrive performance package was definitely shorter.
whether its worth £245 is another question.
as iain says if you can try a MY00 that would be what you need..........
this is the standard price of £211 + fitting, which should be no more than an hour i'm told.
i'm still tempted to get one on my MY00 as the MY99 i drove before purchasing which had one fitted via a prodrive performance package was definitely shorter.
whether its worth £245 is another question.
as iain says if you can try a MY00 that would be what you need..........
#10
Skippy is right, I thought the same when I compared my old lever to the new one. The only difference between the two is that the quickshift has the linkage connecting bracket welded on higher up the lever. You could do the same as Skippy, or even make a clamp on braket which would give some up and down adjustment.
#12
Yes it is a DIY fitting job.
Only screw driver and circlip pliers needed.
1. Remove old **** - it just unscrews.
2. The gaitor is attached at its base by small rubber lugs to plastic spiky things on the inside of the plastic trim surrounding the gear stick. Unhook lugs and remove gaitor.
3. Disconnect linkage.
4. Remove plastic trim to expose base of gear stick.
5. You will then see that the base of the stick has another rubber gaitor covering the ball swivel at the bottom of the stick. Unscrew some of the screws holding the metal surround and pull back this second gaitor to expose the ball swivel.
6. Remove the circlip and then with a firm pull the old stick should come out.
7. Knock out the spring pin securing the ball to the old stick and remove the ball and fit ball to new stick.
The rest is just the reverse proceedure, and a bit of common sense. It sounds complicated but it is really straight forward
Stratman
Only screw driver and circlip pliers needed.
1. Remove old **** - it just unscrews.
2. The gaitor is attached at its base by small rubber lugs to plastic spiky things on the inside of the plastic trim surrounding the gear stick. Unhook lugs and remove gaitor.
3. Disconnect linkage.
4. Remove plastic trim to expose base of gear stick.
5. You will then see that the base of the stick has another rubber gaitor covering the ball swivel at the bottom of the stick. Unscrew some of the screws holding the metal surround and pull back this second gaitor to expose the ball swivel.
6. Remove the circlip and then with a firm pull the old stick should come out.
7. Knock out the spring pin securing the ball to the old stick and remove the ball and fit ball to new stick.
The rest is just the reverse proceedure, and a bit of common sense. It sounds complicated but it is really straight forward
Stratman
#15
Andy
Yeah, move it 20mm, works a treat. Not sure if you could change that to make it even sorter or likewise not as short. I'll be at the NW BBQ is anyone whats to have a look at how its done. I'll see if i can get around to getting my other spare lever modified and take it along if anyone is intrested in one. Mine will be the black 94 WRX, with gold super t's and a magnex pipe.
Skippy
Yeah, move it 20mm, works a treat. Not sure if you could change that to make it even sorter or likewise not as short. I'll be at the NW BBQ is anyone whats to have a look at how its done. I'll see if i can get around to getting my other spare lever modified and take it along if anyone is intrested in one. Mine will be the black 94 WRX, with gold super t's and a magnex pipe.
Skippy
#16
why dont you tight buggers just cut down the gear lever in the car - make sure you leave enough thread for the **** to go back on. This, in itself, will make a vast improvement for a bit of elbow grease and a hacksaw.
PS - this is not a wind up!
PS - this is not a wind up!
#17
Sunilp....I had already tried this, ie cutting the lever shorter. I did this with the lever in situ and plenty of graft with a junior hacksaw, but the effect is only minimal.
Replacing the entire lever is better cos it moves the point of attachement of the change linkage further away from the pivot point of the gear lever, which, whilst increasing the amount of effort slightly, requires less movement of the tip of the gearlever to achieve the necessary movement of the linkage to change gear. Well I think thats the theory as I remember it from college....phew!!
You could take this to the other extreme and move the attachment further, so the movement at the tip of the gearlever is only millimeters but the effort would be to great...without then making changes to the linkage mechanism as well.
Replacing the entire lever is better cos it moves the point of attachement of the change linkage further away from the pivot point of the gear lever, which, whilst increasing the amount of effort slightly, requires less movement of the tip of the gearlever to achieve the necessary movement of the linkage to change gear. Well I think thats the theory as I remember it from college....phew!!
You could take this to the other extreme and move the attachment further, so the movement at the tip of the gearlever is only millimeters but the effort would be to great...without then making changes to the linkage mechanism as well.
#18
I don't think there's much point to a quick shift in newer cars. They were needed with older cars because the shift was a bit woolly but it was pretty much fixed in later cars. I can't remember when the changeover was ... possibly from MY97 as that's when I think they made a lot of upgrades. (This is UK spec cars now - don't know about Japanese spec)
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