Does anybody have a Unichip on their Scooby (eapecially on a STi) that they could share some thoughts on .Both positive and especially any problems would be greatly appreciated.At approx £500 it's very competitive against the Motech/link,but then the fact that it's so much cheaper than the latter two worries me about how safe it is. I find the price of the Motech/link prohibitivley expensive,I could afford them at a stretch, but find it difficult to justify since I know the money will never be recouped. Anyway any personal experiences of the the Unichip will be greatly appreciated.

 

...and as I haven't yet blown my engine up with a Superchip (see relevant thread), I'll keep an eye on this one too !

 

Deep,

I have personal experience of the Unichip, but on a GT4. Probably not relevant to you

Yes, the price is much cheaper, but there again you are not totally replacing your ECU. But don't let the price put you off. I still rate it as the No. 1 mod I have ever done on my '4 (and I've done a few). Even better than a trick turbo.

I'll now let the Scooby owners in

Cheers

Ian

 

Where's Paul Walker when you need him?

Paul's had a Unichip fitted to his STI V TypeR with good results.

PAUL ........... Come in MR WALKER

Chris.

 

Deep,

I have a unichip fitted to my UK scoob and although I am pleased with it I would fit a link second time round. If you do go for the unichip you should really get a boost controller fitted aswell, this is an additional £110 (I believe) I have had some problems controlling the boost without one. (Although this is now solved with the changing of restrictor).

If you look at torque figures link equipped cars always seem to produce higher torque than unichip equipped cars. Something else to look at, with the link you can remove the MAF sensor which is prone to failure when fitting an induction kit.

Another thing to consider is how close you are to your unichip dealer. If you make any changes ie exhaust, turbo etc the car should be remapped.

Still, I'm very happy with the unichip and the service I have received from the guys at Powerstation.

Zak.

 

agree with Zak's comments about getting a boost controller together with the Unichip.

I got an HKS EVC IV boost controller which allows you to change boost settings (high/low/scramble/offset/boost cut etc.) inside the car.

This proved handy when I had overboost problems at Donnington a couple of weeks ago (still don't know why) but was soon fixable with the controller.

Great bit of kit - Powerstation top guys

Rich.

 

Yep ive got Unichip and the boost controller fitted to my STI Type R V5.

Wicked results from a safe map, 290 bhp and 292 lb ft torque.

Car pulls like a train, really is superb, and det free. Do get a few overboost problems but that is nothing to do with the Unichip or its boost controller. Im looking in to that problem at the moment.

For the money i cant fault the Dastech equipment, it does everything that i want it to do. Also the service you get from the guys at Powerstation is second to none, having taken it back a couple of times to tweek a few bits here and there.

Paul

 

Paul,

What do you think is causing the overboost problems.

Mark.

 

Great response lads,thank you all very much.I actually feel much more confidant about going for the Unichip now.Could someone just be kind enough to briefly explain what overboost is and why the Unichip causes it.Thanks again.Cheers. Deep.

 

Just a few more questions;
Pete Walker;What other mods did you have on your car when you achieved those dyno results?
Why do you recommend a boost controller,and does this mean you are constantly fiddling with it.
Also is'nt it dangerous to alter boost but have the ignition/fuelling settings for a
preset boost.Or have I completely misunderstood how that works.

 

I'll jump in here Deep as I understand Paul's problems.

The Unichip *isn't* causing the overboost. The overboost is probably being caused by another component on the car, not sure yet, it is being looked into. But I don't want to say anything until it has been proven (anything on this yet Paul ?)

The boost controller that comes with the Unichip as an option (about 110 pounds I think) is another unit that sits alongside the main Unichip. It is also mapped through the Unichip software to control the boost. It also hides away under the carpet (or wherever) along with the main unit. You do not get a **** or buttons or flashing gauges etc. to play with to adjust your boost.

So, to sum up for you Deep. You get the Unichip which controls fuel/ignition. You then buy the additional boost controller widget that allows the boost to be mapped against the fuel/igntion map in the main unit. This way, you get just the right amount of boost through the rev range to meet your requirements.

Cheers

Ian

 

Just to add like with all chip mod piggy back or even complete replacement the guy doing it makes the biggest difference.

I had a Unichip fitted but did not opt for the boost control unit.Driveability at the low end has improve tremendously. Still getting over boost even with a Blitz DSBC. This is not due to the Unichip.

Seems to be a policy by Unichip not to let the owner have access via a lap top to the fuel and ignition maps. I even offered to sign a disclaimer relieving them of any liabilities so that I may have access to the software for remapping when future mods come into the picture. I guess this is where the dealers make more money from you when you go back for a remap.

As for the Unichip boost module can anyone shed some light on its workings. Is the amount of boost set to correspond to the rpm,ie boost vs rpm ? If so, does that mean that I have to put back my boost solenoid valve and get rid of my manual boost controller.

 

Well said Ian, by the way, nice to meet you last Saturday.

Its not the Unichip that causes overboost, as Ian has already said.

My other mods to reach these figures are a catless full system and HKS induction kit.

Paul

 

Ian,

I'm a little confused. Unless there is a faulty part, eg. solenoid, or actuator, I don't see why controlling the overboost, isn't down to the controller.

We know for example, that a de-cat d/p, and exhaust system will allow the turbo to spin up quicker, and induce overboost, but by adjusting the parameters of an ECU, or that of a boost controller should solve the problem.

If it doesn't, then it means that either the controller (ecu, or EVC) isn't, or can't react fast enough.

Example: with the Link, I was always able to control boost (if I got the settings right :-) but with the MoTec, I can't.

This of course made no sense, and after looking into things a little deeper, it turns out that the standard ECU, uses a frequency of 10~14hz to control the solenoid (as does the Link) but the MoTec can only go down to 17hz. On "MY car", with my mods, this isn't low enough. This has been solved by replacing the solenoid with a different unit. No additional mods have been made since changing to the MoTec.

Just wondering if the Unichip controller has the same problem.

Mark.

 

Mark,

With regards to Paul's car, again, no, nothing to do with the Unichip boost control.

It is a mechanical issue that is being looked into. As and when this has either been proven or disproven, then I'm sure you'll hear all about it.

Cheers

Ian

 

A couple of points;
Ian,if the boost controller is there as an additional extra to get the right boost across the rev range then what happens with the boost when you d'ont have the boost controller with a Unichip?
Paul,even though your torque figure is impressive the BHP doesnt seem more than you would expect from an STi5 with a decatted full system(ie without a Unichip)
p.s Thanks for the great response so far guys and sorry if I'm a little slow on the uptake. Deep.

 

Ian,thanks again Ithink that makes sense,but can you just tell me one last thing.With the Unichip and boost controller do you still retain what I've heard termed the "closed loop boost system".I d'ont actually understand what it means,but have been told by some respected tuners that it's the safest way to do things.Cheers for all the info so far.
Rannoch;Not true I'm afraid.The Unichip is £530 fitted/mapped by Powerstation,and lets say £150(tops) for the BC,thats £680.The basic Link 'package' is £1200.This is because Bob Rawle,the only one around who seems to be able to map these things insists on a number of other parts to be fitted.These include a knock sensor,some lambda probe thingy and a few other bits.I spoke to his partner Branco about three weeks ago and the 'basic' package totted up to about £1200 fitted and mapped.If you do know where to get it at the same price as the Unichip/bc please tell me!!

 

AFAIK, the LINK is not in the same price bracket as the Motec as alluded to above - but the same price as a Unichip with a boost controller (which is a reasonably like to like comparison).

Although for the LINK you would then have to shell out for mapping....

R

 

Deep,

No probs.

Unichip, as a piggyback unit will not affect the boost if you just fit the Unichip. I.e. the main ECU will still control the boost level. But in most cases you want to run a little more boost so the boost controller is the way to go.

Obviously, you can just use a bleed valve to increase the boost, but this needs not to be fiddled with . I think that on the Scooby it is much preferable to use boost control as you can then lower/increase the boost at whatever revs based on a map etc., oh, and you cannot fiddle with it.

Cheers

Ian

 

Deep,

Sorry mate, I've no idea about the boost control, i.e. if open or closed loop. I don't run a boost controller on my car at all but do have the Unichip.

Best bet would be to get the information from the people who actually know what they are talking about (unlike me ), give Powerstation a call.

Cheers

Ian

 

My Unichipped Scooby produced 305BHP and 295lbts of torque at Powerstation on a hot summers day of which I was pleased with!

Also it allowed me to acheive a 1/4 mile time of 12.7 at Santa Pod which is still waiting to be beaten by a similar powered Scoob

Unichip anyday of the week as the lads at Powerstation had done a remarkable job with no problems what so ever! never needed to go back for any adjustments either!

 

Harj, have you got a boost controller fitted with your's.

 

Deep, recommended is the word not insisted ... Link ecu fitted and mapped would cost you £869.50 fitted and mapped. Not such a big difference. depending on the car and the objective we do recommend further items to be added to the package but ... a budget is a budget and the basic package is as stated above.

Bob

 

Wow!!!My post has a reply from a Scoobygod!Thanks for the info Bob.It's just that when a highly reputed organisation such as yours recommends something,someone such as myself feels very nervous about not following that advice.May be you could tell me how essential those ancillaries would be on a STi4,(strictly for road use only) with SS DP and HKS Superdrager,HKS induction,always to be run on SUL.Thanking you in advance for your time and expertise. Deep.

 

Got to agree with Bob here. No matter which option you go for (Unichip/Link/MoTeC etc.) *still* consider a KnockLink. It works and it could save your engine

Cheers

Ian

 

Deep, your car already has the three port solenoid as standard which gives more precise metering so no need for that, minimum extra would be Knocklink which I would suggest should be in anyone's budget when upgrading Japanese spec cars. Since this should not be used with the factory knock sensor you would also need the separate sensor as well. Whatever level of upgrade is being used on whatever turbo vehicle (Subaru or non-Subaru)a poor quality tank of fuel will make it det, its for this type of reason that a Knocklink should be given serious consideration.

But, as mentioned ... a budget is a budget and the ecu can be installed and mapped on its own if that is the customers requirement.

 

Thanks for the time and advice Bob(and Ian).You may be getting some business from me in the very near future.Someone has very kindly agreed to let me have a ride in their Linked STi,after that I may well be in touch.Thanks again Bob and maybe we'll meet when you map my car!Also,big thanks to Ian f
or taking the time out to explain things.
I'll post once I've had the system I choose fitted. Deep.

 

Deep,

I am glad that Bob posted as it was not for me to comment on BRDs commercial arrangements. I paid under £600 for my LINK and did not think the price has risen so much! I did say you would need to pay for mapping (which comes with excellent aftersales support).

If you come to Mytchett meet (Fleet meet) on Sunday I will take you out in my LINKed Sti V - you may be surprised at the difference

This is not to say it is better than anything else, but try out cars taking different tuning approaches and go with what you enjoy.

Also, Harj's car WAS undoubtedly very quick and powerful, but also has water injection and runs a fairly high level of boost for a WRX - both of which make a big contribution to power.

R



[This message has been edited by Rannoch (edited 06 March 2001).]

 

Cheers Rannoch,as long as I recover from my flu I'll be at the meet.See you there. Deep.

 

just a question on the link,if the standard ecu is replaced,does this not mean that the "key coded" immobiliser is removed from the car?
just been on the brd site,it looks a very impressive piece of kit.

john