sluggish performance
#1
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this morning on my commute to work, the car seemed sluggish all through the rev range - everytime I took my foot of the throttle, the car noticably wanted to slow down. Boost seemed fine, but it was as though something had crawled up my exhaust and blocked it a bit (like the cats went back in, if you know what I mean)
Sounds really stupid, but I imagine you're all as sensitive to your cars as I am
anyone got any ideas? engine ticks over sweetly, no funny noises on boost, exhaust pops merrily on and the brakes weren't any hotter than normal.
... I'll get me coat...
Sounds really stupid, but I imagine you're all as sensitive to your cars as I am
anyone got any ideas? engine ticks over sweetly, no funny noises on boost, exhaust pops merrily on and the brakes weren't any hotter than normal.
... I'll get me coat...
#6
I have to agree...stay as far away as possible from the always cheaper superstore petrol. It makes a difference for sure.
Has anyone noticed a difference in putting ron97 in a uk empreza which is set for 95. I'm sure today after filling with 97 its much more responsive or am I just imagining it.........
Has anyone noticed a difference in putting ron97 in a uk empreza which is set for 95. I'm sure today after filling with 97 its much more responsive or am I just imagining it.........
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#9
Fosters
Did you reset still with the Tesco petrol in the tank? or were you on to the next lot?
I know that this has been covered loads of times before but how did you reset the ECU. I had a simialr problem with supermarket petrol recently and think resetting may be a good idea.
Brendan
Did you reset still with the Tesco petrol in the tank? or were you on to the next lot?
I know that this has been covered loads of times before but how did you reset the ECU. I had a simialr problem with supermarket petrol recently and think resetting may be a good idea.
Brendan
#10
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[Edit] It wasn't a whole tank about 35 litres of BP 97RON (I always use SUL anyway).
Made a whole difference though.
To reset the ECU (thanks Stef, btw)...
look under the dash in the centre behind the plastic that surrounds the steering column. In amongst the whole bunch of wires, there are 2 sets of unconnected connectors, one with black connectors and one with bright green connectors (green slightly bigger than black)
I found myself a bit of dual carriageway to blat on and parked in the layby. GET A MIRROR TOO!!!!
With the ignition on (I had the engine running) connect the afore mentioned connectors and your 'check Engine' light should be flashing every half second.
Go for a drive and keep the revs (on average) above 2K revs (tee hee ). I drove for about 3 or 4 miles.
stop and unconnect the connectors and the check engine light should have disappeared.
I then went for another blat and was very surprised at thennice result.
I have a PPP btw, but I guess it'll be the same procedure with a normal ECU.
If you car blows up, neither I or Stef are at fault!
[This message has been edited by Fosters (edited 18 May 2001).]
Made a whole difference though.
To reset the ECU (thanks Stef, btw)...
look under the dash in the centre behind the plastic that surrounds the steering column. In amongst the whole bunch of wires, there are 2 sets of unconnected connectors, one with black connectors and one with bright green connectors (green slightly bigger than black)
I found myself a bit of dual carriageway to blat on and parked in the layby. GET A MIRROR TOO!!!!
With the ignition on (I had the engine running) connect the afore mentioned connectors and your 'check Engine' light should be flashing every half second.
Go for a drive and keep the revs (on average) above 2K revs (tee hee ). I drove for about 3 or 4 miles.
stop and unconnect the connectors and the check engine light should have disappeared.
I then went for another blat and was very surprised at thennice result.
I have a PPP btw, but I guess it'll be the same procedure with a normal ECU.
If you car blows up, neither I or Stef are at fault!
[This message has been edited by Fosters (edited 18 May 2001).]
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