MY98 engine problems.....
#1
Hello!
I did a trackday recently with my MY98.
Now my car does a "fuel cut out" when reaching full boost. (in every gear). I am not sure it is the fuel cut out, but it certainly feels like one. If you accelerate from 2500rpm up, there are up to 3-4 cut outs of the engine.
Does anybody know what this could be?
I have checked the hoses, but from outside I cannot find a leaking hose. Also the car was tested by a garage and the tester couldn't find a fault code of the ECU.
I hade extreme vibrations as I have fitted the Prodrive brakes and they aren't up to the job. When they got hot, they gave strong vibrations, maybe this did any harm to my engine?
greetings and thanks for any help
ric
I did a trackday recently with my MY98.
Now my car does a "fuel cut out" when reaching full boost. (in every gear). I am not sure it is the fuel cut out, but it certainly feels like one. If you accelerate from 2500rpm up, there are up to 3-4 cut outs of the engine.
Does anybody know what this could be?
I have checked the hoses, but from outside I cannot find a leaking hose. Also the car was tested by a garage and the tester couldn't find a fault code of the ECU.
I hade extreme vibrations as I have fitted the Prodrive brakes and they aren't up to the job. When they got hot, they gave strong vibrations, maybe this did any harm to my engine?
greetings and thanks for any help
ric
#2
If you fitted race pads you may have needed to bed them in . Did you do this ? Also after the track use do not let the pads sit next to the discs whilst they are still hot. Move the car a foot or so every so often to prevent creating hot spots on the discs. I would have thought the prodrive brakes were up to the job .
#3
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Ric,
You've almost certainly got oil in the boost solenoid/pipes. Give them a good clean out with brake, or carb' cleaner.
Mark
You've almost certainly got oil in the boost solenoid/pipes. Give them a good clean out with brake, or carb' cleaner.
Mark
#4
Slippy Diff:
Yep, I bedded the brakes in properly, gave them the procedure Prodrive writes in their instruction. And afterwards they were driven for about 700km without hard use. I did always a cool down lap and also I never sit on the brakes when standing still. My friend also has a set and we both have the same problem. I contacted Prodrive about one week ago, but until now no answer. We are very unhappy. The brakes are crap.
R19ket:
I already cleaned the pipes. I removed the pipe that goes from the T-hose to the solenoid and cleaned it with brake cleaner. I once had this problem, but now its another thing, sometimes the car misfires just when driving normal. Also I have the problem in every gear (1st too!). Do you take off all hoses and clean them?
...maybe its the sparks?
greetings and thanks for any answer!
ric
Yep, I bedded the brakes in properly, gave them the procedure Prodrive writes in their instruction. And afterwards they were driven for about 700km without hard use. I did always a cool down lap and also I never sit on the brakes when standing still. My friend also has a set and we both have the same problem. I contacted Prodrive about one week ago, but until now no answer. We are very unhappy. The brakes are crap.
R19ket:
I already cleaned the pipes. I removed the pipe that goes from the T-hose to the solenoid and cleaned it with brake cleaner. I once had this problem, but now its another thing, sometimes the car misfires just when driving normal. Also I have the problem in every gear (1st too!). Do you take off all hoses and clean them?
...maybe its the sparks?
greetings and thanks for any answer!
ric
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Hi Ric
Bummer. For cleaning the solenoid you can also connect just one pair of the connectors under the dash...problem is, can't remember if it's the black or green ones. Anyone?
Steve Lawson told me about this way back (but scoobynet search only seems to be going back to June this year ).
Let me know if you want to borrow any (my00) parts. Did you get your knocklink and boost guage?
See-Ya
Richard
Bummer. For cleaning the solenoid you can also connect just one pair of the connectors under the dash...problem is, can't remember if it's the black or green ones. Anyone?
Steve Lawson told me about this way back (but scoobynet search only seems to be going back to June this year ).
Let me know if you want to borrow any (my00) parts. Did you get your knocklink and boost guage?
See-Ya
Richard
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Ric
Just read on another thread that the black under-dash connectors is for ecu fault codes.
So connecting the greeen and switching on the ignition will send your car into mad-cow mode. All under bonnet electrical items will be operate in turn until you switch off again. It (usefully, for you ) pulses the solenoid maybe 10-20 times each cycle. Just be standing their with your cleaner!
Be warned - it's a wierd experience though....and keep your fingers away from the fans
Richard
Just read on another thread that the black under-dash connectors is for ecu fault codes.
So connecting the greeen and switching on the ignition will send your car into mad-cow mode. All under bonnet electrical items will be operate in turn until you switch off again. It (usefully, for you ) pulses the solenoid maybe 10-20 times each cycle. Just be standing their with your cleaner!
Be warned - it's a wierd experience though....and keep your fingers away from the fans
Richard
#7
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Ric,
You need to clean the solenoid too. If there's oil in the pipes, then it's bound to have gone through the solenoid, making it sticky.
Yes I'd take the pipes off, and flush them through.
Ideally, you need to wire the solenoid up, so that it's + goes to the battery +, then put a wire to the solenoid - (make sure it doesn't touch the bodywork yet)
Then rig the brake/carb cleaner pipe into the solenoid (use some rubber/silicon pipe/tape, to connect it).
Then, start tapping the - against "bare metal" bodywork, and at the same time spray the cleaner. The tapping opperates the solenoid, and allows the cleaner to flush any cr*p out. It's worth putting some kitchen paper under the bottom solenoid pipe.
Hope this solves the problem.
Mark.
You need to clean the solenoid too. If there's oil in the pipes, then it's bound to have gone through the solenoid, making it sticky.
Yes I'd take the pipes off, and flush them through.
Ideally, you need to wire the solenoid up, so that it's + goes to the battery +, then put a wire to the solenoid - (make sure it doesn't touch the bodywork yet)
Then rig the brake/carb cleaner pipe into the solenoid (use some rubber/silicon pipe/tape, to connect it).
Then, start tapping the - against "bare metal" bodywork, and at the same time spray the cleaner. The tapping opperates the solenoid, and allows the cleaner to flush any cr*p out. It's worth putting some kitchen paper under the bottom solenoid pipe.
Hope this solves the problem.
Mark.
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