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Old 10 September 2004 | 10:20 PM
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Smile ecutec or link [possum link] ;FAO JOHN BANKS

which is the better remap ecu for reliability and power.
also do you need the original ecu [ae801]to reprogram it for the ecutec?

Last edited by yhe chod; 01 November 2004 at 09:09 PM.
Old 10 September 2004 | 11:16 PM
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yes you do M8...think ecutec is cheaper and less hassle
Old 10 September 2004 | 11:37 PM
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Ecutek remaps the existing ecu, so just software.

Link is an aftermarket ecu which replaces your current ecu. Also allows you to do without the dreaded MAF sensor, which is nice if you're running a MY99/00.

Just do a search, there's loads of info to be found.
Old 11 September 2004 | 12:03 AM
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Speak to BRD, I would go ECUTEK but depends entirely on what you're doing to the car. Link can have some cold start running issues...

MB
Old 11 September 2004 | 10:24 AM
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Getting rid of the MAF sensor can be a bad thing too unless you are absolutely forced to with intake design. Having the option of both I choose to stick with a MAF. The more recent twin green dot MAFs, from the last 2 years or so seem much more reliable. I've had mine on and off and on more different intake setups that I can remember and it is still going strong. Unlike what I previously thought, there are at least a few intake configurations on MY99/00 UK cars that use a MAF that are measurably making no less power than removing the MAF, having free intake design and mapping to suit.

Even with a form of intake temperature compensation which can be installed with the 99/00 UK Link, speed density is still far slower to react to transients (can dig out SAE paper which backs up the feeling of it on the road) and not as complete a picture as a MAF sensor. Measuring intake pressure and temperature doesn't tell you anything about what the exhaust side of the engine is doing - VE will depend on exhaust manifold pressure and temperature as well as atmospheric pressure for example, although many speed density ECUs the latter into account.

The PowerFC works very well and has idle and transient control the Link examples I've seen (mapped by experts) can only dream of, as does Ecutek for your two cheaper options. Ecutek at high power is slightly hindered in choice of dump valve to avoid MAF reversions, but on the entirely (IMHO) acceptable OEM DV there are hardly any issues at all. Mine is running acceptably with about twice standard power, at present with no fancy piggyback electronics to help it out now all the issues are sorted. Try a few Link cars first, driving as you would daily from cold start with transient use at low load before deciding. Try a few hot starts and traffic jams as well.
Old 11 September 2004 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by john banks
Getting rid of the MAF sensor can be a bad thing too unless you are absolutely forced to with intake design. Having the option of both I choose to stick with a MAF. The more recent twin green dot MAFs, from the last 2 years or so seem much more reliable. I've had mine on and off and on more different intake setups that I can remember and it is still going strong. Unlike what I previously thought, there are at least a few intake configurations on MY99/00 UK cars that use a MAF that are measurably making no less power than removing the MAF, having free intake design and mapping to suit.

Even with a form of intake temperature compensation which can be installed with the 99/00 UK Link, speed density is still far slower to react to transients (can dig out SAE paper which backs up the feeling of it on the road) and not as complete a picture as a MAF sensor. Measuring intake pressure and temperature doesn't tell you anything about what the exhaust side of the engine is doing - VE will depend on exhaust manifold pressure and temperature as well as atmospheric pressure for example, although many speed density ECUs the latter into account.

The PowerFC works very well and has idle and transient control the Link examples I've seen (mapped by experts) can only dream of, as does Ecutek for your two cheaper options. Ecutek at high power is slightly hindered in choice of dump valve to avoid MAF reversions, but on the entirely (IMHO) acceptable OEM DV there are hardly any issues at all. Mine is running acceptably with about twice standard power, at present with no fancy piggyback electronics to help it out now all the issues are sorted. Try a few Link cars first, driving as you would daily from cold start with transient use at low load before deciding. Try a few hot starts and traffic jams as well.

always good to hear from you jhon.
basically i will probably do the tdo5 and ecutek thing in the near future[probably at brd] to keep it clean and simple.
at the moment im sorting out my cat less zorst and porting the headers and uppipe. and to remove the snorkel on the inner wing of the air intake.
on this note is it worth putting in a k+n panel filter or will this give a risk of probs. on the dreaded standard MAF sensor!!
as i will be taking it on and off to clean it as well.
thanks everybody for your advise.
laters
Old 11 September 2004 | 02:14 PM
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K&N panel is ok.

I would tend to replace filters rather than clean them, although many do clean them I would be paranoid over over-oiling the oil based ones and trashing the MAF.
Old 12 September 2004 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by john banks
K&N panel is ok.

I would tend to replace filters rather than clean them, although many do clean them I would be paranoid over over-oiling the oil based ones and trashing the MAF.

true, true
Old 01 November 2004 | 09:02 PM
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Question fao john banks

so forget the link i say.
with my car; with ported uppipe and headers,3" decat exhaust throughout, and k+n panel filter.
looking for big torque[upto 300lb/ft] in the lower revs.with no reliability hassles
should i go for apexi power fc or ecutek??


ps what do you mean by twin green dot maf? [is this for a uk99]

Last edited by yhe chod; 01 November 2004 at 09:04 PM.
Old 01 November 2004 | 11:13 PM
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The newer MAFs that are reputedly more reliable have two green dots near the sensor film IIRC.

Any ECU will do what you want. Depends on whether you want to program it yourself or not as well, where you are in relation to a mapper you get on with, personal preference etc. They all have a place.
Old 02 November 2004 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by john banks
The newer MAFs that are reputedly more reliable have two green dots near the sensor film IIRC.

Any ECU will do what you want. Depends on whether you want to program it yourself or not as well, where you are in relation to a mapper you get on with, personal preference etc. They all have a place.
theres a few names i could mention; bob rawle, pat hepborn or mervin carol, or even andy f.
whos the man for the job then
[i know there all the dogs]
Old 02 November 2004 | 11:31 PM
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Bob or Andy F would be my choices. Bob for Ecutek and Andy for the Apexi. Those two i've not heard of an engine failing after they have mapped it.... the others????

Tony.
Old 02 November 2004 | 11:55 PM
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Nearly everyone that has mapped for long enough has had at least one engine fail at some point after they've mapped it, or if unlucky during mapping which would be embarrassing , whether the mapper did it is difficult to know often. That is not to criticise any of the mappers mentioned BTW. Except my own 2.5s which have been experimental everyone knows that, two 2.0s that I did for others blew up - one a big end, one a melted piston. Both were subsequently mapped again by another mapper, the melted piston one then lost a big end I believe within a week - something not right there on the car I suspect and the original problem was not solved. Subarus blow up, you play, you pay

If you can't cope with this extend your warranty and get a PPP. It is the right choice for many.
Old 03 November 2004 | 12:09 AM
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Agree, engines do fail. I should have said that i've not heard of engines specifically failing from a map that either Bob or Andy has done. The others mentioned i couldn't possibly comment on

You do pays your money and take your chances.... that's why i won't let anybody touch my PFC other than me .

Do think John has a point about the PPP.

Tony.
Old 03 November 2004 | 07:01 AM
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I'd recommend the power fc wholeheartedly, idle control is stock-like and so much better and refined than the link, greater map resolution (20 * 20) with variable scaling if you get yourself a Datalogit mapping kit or ask your mapper nicely so you won't be stuck using only half of the available cells, and much faster response than the link overall.

And get yourself a robust 90mm Infiniti Q45 maf and live happily everafter!

Robert
Old 03 November 2004 | 08:58 AM
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Tone Loc, stop stirring.

subarus are way too temperamental to be able to say they blew up following a remap. My car blew up after a Bob Rawle remap, but I am utterly convinced it was nothing to do with the map. It was sitting at idle at the time when it just stopped. Idle wasn't rich or lean and it certainly wasn't detting.

You can't simply make comments like that without tarnishing people opinions.

the only people I would avoid mapping wise is dave power, but he doesn't do them now. Otherwise they all know their stuff.
Old 03 November 2004 | 01:46 PM
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Adam, Not stiring at all. I merley said that Bob and Andy would be my recommendations . Would anybody disagree that they are very good at what they do, would i tarnish this guys opinion so that he only uses Bob or Andy. If so i don't think he'll be missing out on much.

As for the comment about not commenting, well the guy i am thinking off i won't trust with my lawn mover after the great hash he made of mapping one car.... that did blow up due to his mapping and no other reason as it was detting it's **** off. Maybe he now knows the software better now but should he really ahve been mapping somebodies car with such basic knowledge of the system missing..... no. He could well be getting good results now, and good luck to him. That is all IMHO of course and everybody is free to not listen to me at all. MAybe Dave Power shoudl be given another chance to prove himself too?????

Tony.
Old 03 November 2004 | 02:04 PM
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I run a Link [mapped by BR] in my MY00 with td05 and have had zero hot or cold start issues in 18 months. Yes the cold idle is not as good as the stock ecu but it doesnt cause me any problems.

I did have an ecutek before the Link and it caused me loads of grief with the blow off valve, and had two dead ecus but thats another story...
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