Andy Hamp

All,

My car was ECUTek'ed by Pat when he worked for ScoobySport (18 months or so ago). Recently i've started seeing some high RPM knock :-( ....

Any suggestions what could cause it ?

I've changed the Air Filter (Panel) to a K&N from an ITB (?) which it was mapped with as it was in a disgusting state as I suspected that it may be causing the problem. But that seemed to make it marginally better for a short period of time.

For what it's worth, the knock seemed to appear shortly after a service ... but that may be coincidence.

Help !!

Andy

PS - Yes i know the simple answer is to get Pat to look at it and i will but i'm just wondering if there is a simple/alternative solution ... it was a perfect runner for 20K miles !!

john banks

In a sort of order of probability when judged blind...

MAF sensor
Overboost - split pipe, oiled up solenoid
Cold weather
Poor fuel
Aggressive map
Lazy fuel pump or injector
Inlet tract laden with oil

ZIPPY

I would go with points 2 and 7 on Johns list first, i have seen lots of Ecutek cars which are running above standard boost and after 15k miles the inlet pipes and solenoid are always full of oil residue.

Give both of the above a good clean and then try it.

I have got to do on MY01 at the weekend as all his pipework is in need of a good clean.

Zippy

Andy Hamp

Thanks Guy's ...

I'll check and clean all the parts i can.

When you say split pipes i assume you're not talking about the intercooler hoses (Which are all Samco's) ... ?

And when you say "oiled Up solonoid" what do you mean ?

And is there anyway of testing the MAF sensor ?

Cheers ... Andy

Andy Hamp

Oh ... and what's the best way of cleaning the pipes ?

Just with a rag or some form of solvent (petrol/turps/meths/white sprit) ?

Andy

Deep Singh

Did they change the spark plugs at the service? They can sometimes be the prob

Andy Hamp

No plug weren't changed ... but they will be at the next.

One thing that John mentioned is pipe work ... which made me remember one thing they did at the service ... change the clutch ... i wonder what they disturbed ....

Andy

micared

Treat the maf sensor as a consumable and change it at 50k...it's only £77 from the dealer and could save you an engine rebuild. Not unlikely to be causing your problem. Change the lamda at the same time....50k is about the limit of its lifespan also. Is it likely that the dealer put fuel in the car while they had it?

Andy Hamp

The MAF's as clean as a whistle ... if fact it looks brand new.

Fuel is not the problem i've done quite a few miles since the service and had different fuel through it.

I wish i knew what solinoid that John & Zippy were talking about ... anyone know ?

john banks

Wastegate solenoid. If you search on overboost and solenoid you'll find threads telling you how to clean it out by connecting under-dash connectors and brake cleaner spraying.

Also check for no splits in vac lines.

Andy Hamp

Cheers John ... found a thread !

Been through the procedure ... but one thing i noticed on my car is that the thread i read said to connect the green dash connectors so the engine would cycle ... but the solenoid didn't cycle as described !! Is that normal ? Could that be my problem ?

Everything seemed to be clean before i started .... :-(

Cheers ... Andy

wah

The solenoid should click away as soon as the green connectors are together, maybe worth a look into as it doesn't sound like it's functioning like it should

john banks

You had the ignition on II as well? Sorry to state the obvious.

Andy Hamp

yep ... fans were going on and off and i could hear other things making noises ...

if it wasn't working at all wouldn't the symptoms be more serious ? i'll play again in the morning ....

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

If they changed the clutch, then they probably disconnected the battery. In this case the ECU would of re-learnt. If the MAF is on it's way out it may be the problem.

Many MAF issues are highlighted after an ECU reset or Battery disconnect.

For the price of a MAF it's gotta be worth it. If it is not the problem then you have a spare. Which you WILL need sooner or later.

Mine died at 22K

john banks

What boost levels are you seeing and what is it mapped for?

micared

Maf's " as clean as a whistle " means nowt if you're talking about its appearance. Could look brand new and still be shagged. If it's done 50k, throw it out and replace. Even if it hasn't, suspect it anyway....they're known to be trouble. Do an ecu reset to be sure.

Andy Hamp

John ... no idea i've not got a boost gauge. The map was one of the early ScoobySport Tek 2 and a bit type from Pat. It ran just fine for at least 20 K miles.

Micrared ... i'll get a new MAF and see what happens ... the cars done 55K so not really a major issue. if it doesn't make a difference i can always keep it as a spare or sell it on.

johnfelstead

if the solonoid isnt cycling, its broken, or the wiring to it is, so get that sorted asap. Change your MAF as sugested, and take it easy for now until you have this sorted.

TARManiAC

Strange that nobody asked yet, but what MY is your car?

Think that only the classics have problems with MAF, or?

cw42

iTrader: (1)

Does this sound familiar johnfelstead?
Andy, I've been having pretty much the same probs on my MY99 uk turbo, mapped by brd last july, and have since done around 10k. With the kind help of j felstead, he's cleaned all my pipes (oh er! ), cleaned the solenoid, fitted a brand new solenoid and maf sensor from prosport, but the problem still persist.
Looking at my history of spending on the car, my last new maf sensor was back in jan last year just after the 76k service, it actually failed as I drove away from prosport! On top of that, I had to put some esso superplus unleaded in the other week, and that seemed to make things a lot worse.
So, now, I've got clean/intact pipes, the solenoid/maf is fine, and I'm back with a full tank of optimax, but its still overboosting under heavy loads.
chris.

Andy Hamp

It's an MY01 but the fact it's ECUTek'ed means it has to be MY01 onward doesn't it ? ... or did the reprogrammable ecu come in a bit earlier than that

cw42

iTrader: (1)

From MY99 you could ecutek the ecu

Fizz

iTrader: (1)

You can't here the clicking on an MY01 onwards tried it on mine and Zippy said you can't either IIRC

Andy Hamp

Thanks Fizz .... i've put a meter on the solenoid and during the "test" process it's got a constant 12v so it wont make any noise anyway. I've tried energising it stand alone and no sound. So it's either buggered or that's the way it works.

I'll change the MAF tomorrow and take it from there.

Thanks to all who've helped and if anyone has any alternative suggestions .. please feel free.

Andy

Bob Rawle

Sound is irrelevent, connect a piece of pipe to one of the ports, with power off if you blow into it you should be into pressure ie no air flow, when energised you should be able to blow thro' it.

bob

johnfelstead

Not quite the same issue with yours chris, that has a serious boost control issue which is causing a large oscilation in boost if you load the engine, which is then producing ocasional det based on knocklink activity. I dont think the problem with this particular car is similar as he hasnt mentioned power surging issues.

MY01 MAF's can fail, but are less likely than MY99/00. I would get some delta dash monitoring done if posible, this should help see if the fuelling is OK.

I've sent you a PM Bob.

cw42

iTrader: (1)

cheers john, you know best
I just drive and wash it
chris.

Andy Hamp

Umm .. tried sucking and blowing ( :-(0) ) and no air passes through with or without 12v passing through it.

Could this be the problem ? What would be the symptoms ? The car pull REALLY well ... until about 6k when the rattle of death appears. Apart from that it's just fine .. no surge .. nada

johnfelstead

when you say with/without 12V do you mean with the test plugs connected and the ignition on?