HELP please....! scooby wont run, idles at 200rpm then dies!
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HELP please....! scooby wont run, idles at 200rpm then dies!
my cars been acting slighty dodgy under full throttle past few days, iv got some new plugs, but not had chance to fit them yet. drives perfectly other than under WOT when its slightly hesitant and not as quick! i noticed my oil filler cap had mysteriously vanished!! replaced that, car still drives perfectly other than under full load!
drove home from work today, let it run 2 mins, turned off no probs. just tried starting it now, idling about 200rpm, cutting out all over the shop!! will not idle. even with a bit of gas no change, just struggles like mad then cuts out due to the revs being too low!!
any ideas??? iv not had it long and am completely stuck as to what to do??? anything i can try??
Thanks!
drove home from work today, let it run 2 mins, turned off no probs. just tried starting it now, idling about 200rpm, cutting out all over the shop!! will not idle. even with a bit of gas no change, just struggles like mad then cuts out due to the revs being too low!!
any ideas??? iv not had it long and am completely stuck as to what to do??? anything i can try??
Thanks!
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wierd as a very fuking large beard! just tried it again, starts and runs perfectly!
is this a sign that something is ready for replacement! both this, and the fact its suddenly become hesitant under full throttle?
plugs, coil packs maybe need changing?
cheers for any advice!
is this a sign that something is ready for replacement! both this, and the fact its suddenly become hesitant under full throttle?
plugs, coil packs maybe need changing?
cheers for any advice!
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Hi mate, no error codes on the ECU diagnostic i did yesterday at all!
iv been having general running problems at anything over 60% throttle recently (appears to be getting worse) where the car feels slow, and is holding back, hesitant at WOT. This and the random idle prob combined is tell ing me something is on its way out!
Iv not had this idle issue since this one time though!
Iv got some NGK 7B's and a walboro 255 pump at home ready to fit this weekend!
Also I'v only just realised that there is a procedure for recetting the ECU as well. I thought I had reset it by taking the battery off for a few hours. (not had the impreza long) so I will give that a try!
iv been having general running problems at anything over 60% throttle recently (appears to be getting worse) where the car feels slow, and is holding back, hesitant at WOT. This and the random idle prob combined is tell ing me something is on its way out!
Iv not had this idle issue since this one time though!
Iv got some NGK 7B's and a walboro 255 pump at home ready to fit this weekend!
Also I'v only just realised that there is a procedure for recetting the ECU as well. I thought I had reset it by taking the battery off for a few hours. (not had the impreza long) so I will give that a try!
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Originally Posted by Jolly Green Monster
I wouldn't expect plug / coil problems to fix themselves..
although they might be a problem and not helping obviously.
Might be the dreaded MAF.
although they might be a problem and not helping obviously.
Might be the dreaded MAF.
NS04
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#8
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I have cleaned the MAF. and the knocklink is showing NO lights at all. usually get some greens high up the revs! The other day when I first noticed it it was only slight hesitation on WOT, but defo no lights on the KL! it does appear to have gotten worse since then slightly.
Ill report back after the plugs and pump have been replaced. Fingers crossed!
cheers for the input, mucho appreciated!
Ill report back after the plugs and pump have been replaced. Fingers crossed!
cheers for the input, mucho appreciated!
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*UPDATE*
Fuel pump has gone!! wouldnt start at work, could not hear it priming! called RAC out for a tow home, then it started up once he arrived. he followed me home, looked at it, turned ignition, no prime, no volts, etc, banged tank, suddently started working!
tried a few times, it was struggling at 200rpm to idle, banged tank, suddenly picked up!! sounded very dodgy as well i had a listen in the boot!
So wolboro 255 going in tomorro!!
should solve all these probs hopefully! cheers for the advice folks
Fuel pump has gone!! wouldnt start at work, could not hear it priming! called RAC out for a tow home, then it started up once he arrived. he followed me home, looked at it, turned ignition, no prime, no volts, etc, banged tank, suddently started working!
tried a few times, it was struggling at 200rpm to idle, banged tank, suddenly picked up!! sounded very dodgy as well i had a listen in the boot!
So wolboro 255 going in tomorro!!
should solve all these probs hopefully! cheers for the advice folks
Last edited by CJAF7R; 20 May 2005 at 08:20 PM.
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sure did, its running perfect at the mo (touches wood)
car felt slow and hesitant for the past week, then deteriorated and wouldnt start right and idled really low!
running spot on now and back to full strength! i had to fit a standard item tho as the walbro hasnt arrived yet and i need the car working for Monday!
cheers
car felt slow and hesitant for the past week, then deteriorated and wouldnt start right and idled really low!
running spot on now and back to full strength! i had to fit a standard item tho as the walbro hasnt arrived yet and i need the car working for Monday!
cheers
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yeah, dead easy mate! i found this on here, so cheers to whoever wrote it!
1. Locate fuel pump - it's under the driver's side rear seat. If saloon, you need to take the rear seat out. If wagon, just fold it, and parcially remove the boot carpet. It's covered by kind of oval shaped plate by 4 screws.
2. Remove plate, and the foam cover.
3. Disconnect the electric connector
4. Release fuel pressure by running the engine with the connector off, until it stalls.
5. Open fuel cap to make sure all pressure is relieved.
6. Disconnect negative on the battery
7. Go back to the fuel pump. Disconnect the hose, that has a white connector on, by gently pinching the catch with flathead screwdriver. Some fuel will leak out, but don't worry, and just wipe it clean. If too much comes out, you probably still had some pressure left in system
8. Disconnect the other 2 fuel hoses - they can be pretty stubborn, but be patient, and with time, they will come off
9. Remove all bolts that hold the fuel pump in place (8 x 6mm IIRC)
10.Carefully dodging the wire and connectors, slowly pull out the fuel pump bracket out of the fuel tank. It's got few bits on it, so be careful not to damage any of it. ( i found twisting is as it comes out helps!)
11. When it comes out and its out the car, disconnect the electric connector from the pump, and remove. there is a resister on the bracket, which goes to the pump, and to the top of the braket. Remove that too. You can remove the pump quite easily from the bracket then.
12. Utilising everything in the kit provided, just assembley in reverse order. The only thing to be careful with is that the new fuel isolater at the bottom fits snug into the L shaped braket, and that fuel filter sits right.
1. Locate fuel pump - it's under the driver's side rear seat. If saloon, you need to take the rear seat out. If wagon, just fold it, and parcially remove the boot carpet. It's covered by kind of oval shaped plate by 4 screws.
2. Remove plate, and the foam cover.
3. Disconnect the electric connector
4. Release fuel pressure by running the engine with the connector off, until it stalls.
5. Open fuel cap to make sure all pressure is relieved.
6. Disconnect negative on the battery
7. Go back to the fuel pump. Disconnect the hose, that has a white connector on, by gently pinching the catch with flathead screwdriver. Some fuel will leak out, but don't worry, and just wipe it clean. If too much comes out, you probably still had some pressure left in system
8. Disconnect the other 2 fuel hoses - they can be pretty stubborn, but be patient, and with time, they will come off
9. Remove all bolts that hold the fuel pump in place (8 x 6mm IIRC)
10.Carefully dodging the wire and connectors, slowly pull out the fuel pump bracket out of the fuel tank. It's got few bits on it, so be careful not to damage any of it. ( i found twisting is as it comes out helps!)
11. When it comes out and its out the car, disconnect the electric connector from the pump, and remove. there is a resister on the bracket, which goes to the pump, and to the top of the braket. Remove that too. You can remove the pump quite easily from the bracket then.
12. Utilising everything in the kit provided, just assembley in reverse order. The only thing to be careful with is that the new fuel isolater at the bottom fits snug into the L shaped braket, and that fuel filter sits right.
#14
Thanks for the info. So changing the pump really makes a difference to the feel of the car? (as opposed to an actual performance increase) e.g smoother, better response etc.
#15
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it does if your having problems matey. my pump was on its way out, causing me a few running probs! iv not yet fitted the uprated one, but i imagine its just generaly better for running higher power with a FPR!
my pump deteriorated over about a week and a half, started with general hesitance and feeling slow, then wouldnt start, and idled crap, then finally would hardly run at all!
my pump deteriorated over about a week and a half, started with general hesitance and feeling slow, then wouldnt start, and idled crap, then finally would hardly run at all!
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