DD Air/Fuel Meter. Would this be OK?
#1
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Hi folks,
I am ordering a Boost device from www.dawesdevices.com today or tomorrow and I have been advised to get an Air/Fuel meter at the same time. I am planning on raising the boost from 11PSI to 14/15PSI on a 94WRX.
Dawes do their own A/F meter and I was considering getting this at the same time. http://www.dawesdevices.com/airfuelmeter.html . Could one of you guys that are in the know with these things please have a look at it and see if the levels that it guages are withing the same range for good fuelling as say the Lambdalink( is that the right comparison?).
All help appreciated,
Nick![Smile](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I am ordering a Boost device from www.dawesdevices.com today or tomorrow and I have been advised to get an Air/Fuel meter at the same time. I am planning on raising the boost from 11PSI to 14/15PSI on a 94WRX.
Dawes do their own A/F meter and I was considering getting this at the same time. http://www.dawesdevices.com/airfuelmeter.html . Could one of you guys that are in the know with these things please have a look at it and see if the levels that it guages are withing the same range for good fuelling as say the Lambdalink( is that the right comparison?).
All help appreciated,
Nick
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#2
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to my knowledge the narrow band lambda sensors that nearly all normal cars operate are only actively useful over a certain range. So the answer is yes it will be fine without even looking at it.
The reason being the effective range of narrow band lambda sensors is only just above and below stoichiometry. This is why for ultimate car set ups it is best to use wide band lambda sensors. But before everyone wants one, this facility is a £600? option on the motec m800 ecu (standard £2300 + £350 loom + £100 solenoid + vat etc)) then the wide band sensor alone is £350 + vat.
The reason being the effective range of narrow band lambda sensors is only just above and below stoichiometry. This is why for ultimate car set ups it is best to use wide band lambda sensors. But before everyone wants one, this facility is a £600? option on the motec m800 ecu (standard £2300 + £350 loom + £100 solenoid + vat etc)) then the wide band sensor alone is £350 + vat.
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It took me loads of searching to work out what Adam has put so neatly above.
The DD looks as good as any. I am not bothering, but instead am planning to link my fairly accurate (+/- 0.5%) digi voltmeter to the correct pin at the ECU to do the same thing when setting the DD boost controller up. I will go for a WOT run without the boost controller and then one with and see if there is much difference. I think this is probably as good as it gets off the factory lambda sensor. Sounds like I need it above about 0.87V. Seems to me as good as a lambda link anyway? If in any doubt I'll get it on a RR.
You need to use a high impedance digital voltmeter as an analogue one might blow the sensor or corrupt the readings.
Another concern - see the Dawes post is about high EGTs are part throttle with higher boost than the map allows - I thought the closed loop system would sort it, but the i-club guys are getting EGTs of 900 C on part throttle. See the other post for more.
The DD looks as good as any. I am not bothering, but instead am planning to link my fairly accurate (+/- 0.5%) digi voltmeter to the correct pin at the ECU to do the same thing when setting the DD boost controller up. I will go for a WOT run without the boost controller and then one with and see if there is much difference. I think this is probably as good as it gets off the factory lambda sensor. Sounds like I need it above about 0.87V. Seems to me as good as a lambda link anyway? If in any doubt I'll get it on a RR.
You need to use a high impedance digital voltmeter as an analogue one might blow the sensor or corrupt the readings.
Another concern - see the Dawes post is about high EGTs are part throttle with higher boost than the map allows - I thought the closed loop system would sort it, but the i-club guys are getting EGTs of 900 C on part throttle. See the other post for more.
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Cheers for your answers guys! Not to worry after all that
, Mr Lawson is providing me with a Lambda link, being the star guy that he is!![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
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Cheers,
Nick.
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Cheers,
Nick.
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Forgot to ask again about the boost pressure that you guys would advise going up to. What do you think that the boost can be safely and reliably upped to on her??
Cheers,
Nick.
Cheers,
Nick.
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I am fitting a link ECU to my 94 WRX and after chatting with Bob @BRD he advised me to change the Lambda sensor. He said that really they are shot after about 30,000 miles (especially the older ones which are in the headers). Bob said that they seem fine and test ok on a select monitor but they under read when they get old and so deliver to much fuel.
I am getting a new sensor and I am putting it in my ScoobySport down pipe as they have an easier life there.
So if fuelling is important to you, then it would seem wise to change this first.
Hope this helps – and Bob if you are reading this I will be getting back to you but it will now be after Xmas .
Cheers
Iain![Smile](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I am getting a new sensor and I am putting it in my ScoobySport down pipe as they have an easier life there.
So if fuelling is important to you, then it would seem wise to change this first.
Hope this helps – and Bob if you are reading this I will be getting back to you but it will now be after Xmas .
Cheers
Iain
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