Clutch Issue?
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Clutch Issue?
Had my Excedy single plate clutch in for around 4000 miles, driving home today, changed down from 5th to 3rd at about 60mph, floored it and the clutch felt like it was slipping slightly.
Changed back up to fifth and thought nothing of it. Then, pulled into the outside lane, put my foot down (still in 5th gear) and my foot off the clutch, the engine reved up without increasing speed as if the clutch was slipping...
My question is, do I ignore this and just see how it is in the morning, or is the clutch on the way out? (hope not as it cost £850 with the flywheel!!)
Cheers, MikeyB
Changed back up to fifth and thought nothing of it. Then, pulled into the outside lane, put my foot down (still in 5th gear) and my foot off the clutch, the engine reved up without increasing speed as if the clutch was slipping...
My question is, do I ignore this and just see how it is in the morning, or is the clutch on the way out? (hope not as it cost £850 with the flywheel!!)
Cheers, MikeyB
#3
Thats not alot of miles for a new clutch. My ones done 70K and thinking of changing for an exidy as gettting a slight bit of slip so want it replaced before I damage the flywheel.
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Do you have any good luck Mikey?
I'm thinking about getting one of these clutches from API so will keep my eyes on this thread to see how it's diagnosed. Hope you get it sorted.
I'm thinking about getting one of these clutches from API so will keep my eyes on this thread to see how it's diagnosed. Hope you get it sorted.
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Morning all, went out late last night to a quiet industrial estate and performed a couple of hard launches. 5K, side-step the clutch.
Car bogged down the first time, and the second wasn't great either so I just came back home.
Anyway, driving to work this morning, the clutch feels perfect again!
To be honest, I don't really understand how a clutch works, but do you have to give it this kind of abuse every now and then?
Car bogged down the first time, and the second wasn't great either so I just came back home.
Anyway, driving to work this morning, the clutch feels perfect again!
To be honest, I don't really understand how a clutch works, but do you have to give it this kind of abuse every now and then?
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Mike,
That clutch should not have any high spots and is / was in perfect condition when we refitted it on the new gearbox.
It can take a while for clutches to totally bed in. BUT I would have thought that by now it should be well bedded, especially after a few launches etc.
See how it goes. It may be ' just one of those things ' that happen from time to time. I spun a clutch up big time, when Pat and l started mapping last week. Didn't bode well, but it didn't happen again, even after we had mapped and increased the torque and power by quite some way. Nope, I've no idea either.
Please confirm for the benefit of the readers that this is not an APi supplied clutch we are talking about here.
David
That clutch should not have any high spots and is / was in perfect condition when we refitted it on the new gearbox.
It can take a while for clutches to totally bed in. BUT I would have thought that by now it should be well bedded, especially after a few launches etc.
See how it goes. It may be ' just one of those things ' that happen from time to time. I spun a clutch up big time, when Pat and l started mapping last week. Didn't bode well, but it didn't happen again, even after we had mapped and increased the torque and power by quite some way. Nope, I've no idea either.
Please confirm for the benefit of the readers that this is not an APi supplied clutch we are talking about here.
David
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Cheers for the reply David, will just keep my eye on it... still saving the pennies at the moment for the AP Racing brake upgrade!!
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OK, thought the clutch problem may of been a one off, but I can get the clutch slipping in any gear now except 1st.
Here's a video of exactly what's happeneing, this is in second gear, up a fairly steep hill, with my left foot NOT resting on the clutch at all.
http://www.mikeyb.co.uk/scooby/clutch_slip.wmv (280Kb)
When the clutch slips, the car vibrates very violently. Just the same as if you get it wrong when setting off in first gear.
Does anyone know if clutches have any adjustment, or is it foooked?
Not a happy bunny at all.
Here's a video of exactly what's happeneing, this is in second gear, up a fairly steep hill, with my left foot NOT resting on the clutch at all.
http://www.mikeyb.co.uk/scooby/clutch_slip.wmv (280Kb)
When the clutch slips, the car vibrates very violently. Just the same as if you get it wrong when setting off in first gear.
Does anyone know if clutches have any adjustment, or is it foooked?
Not a happy bunny at all.
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#11
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That is exactly like Alan Bells was.
Clutch master cylinder was first at fault, then the clutch pedal adjustment itself was causing the the clutch to not release fully, thus fecking the clutch.
Get it sorted properly.
Clutch master cylinder was first at fault, then the clutch pedal adjustment itself was causing the the clutch to not release fully, thus fecking the clutch.
Get it sorted properly.
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Cheers for the advice, clutch master cylinder from Subaru is £128 + fitting.
Is there anything else related to the clutch that could go wrong..? The flywheel is brand new as that came with the clutch.
Is there anything else related to the clutch that could go wrong..? The flywheel is brand new as that came with the clutch.
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Yes, the clutch pedal adjustment!
Alan's needed a massive adjustment, and all that had happened was a gearbox change.
Check that first. if the pedal isnt hitting its stop when your foot is off it, then adjust it.
Alan's needed a massive adjustment, and all that had happened was a gearbox change.
Check that first. if the pedal isnt hitting its stop when your foot is off it, then adjust it.
#16
Get under the dash.
Find the top of the clutch pedal and you will see the travel stop Steven is on about.
iirc you need about 1mm of gap when you gently press by fingers onto the clutch pedal to be right. That means about 10mm on the rubber pedal pad of 'free=play'
Try bleeding the clutch well before you buy a new one.
Find the top of the clutch pedal and you will see the travel stop Steven is on about.
iirc you need about 1mm of gap when you gently press by fingers onto the clutch pedal to be right. That means about 10mm on the rubber pedal pad of 'free=play'
Try bleeding the clutch well before you buy a new one.
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OK, checked the adjustment and I don't think it's anything to do with that, as there is plenty of play at the top of the pedal.
I've got the car booked in at HDC Subaru in Hebden Bridge on the 16th April.
Here's another vid of the problem in 5th gear. Filmed at Bruntingthorpe.
http://www.mikeyb.co.uk/scooby/clutch_slip_2.wmv (336kb)
Somebody has suggested maybe oil has gone onto the clutch??
I've got the car booked in at HDC Subaru in Hebden Bridge on the 16th April.
Here's another vid of the problem in 5th gear. Filmed at Bruntingthorpe.
http://www.mikeyb.co.uk/scooby/clutch_slip_2.wmv (336kb)
Somebody has suggested maybe oil has gone onto the clutch??
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Clutch is slipping easier and easier now, the cars not booked in til next Monday but I'm going to park her up til them tonight, just hope I can get home!!
Also, gears and becoming harder and harder to slot in, they feel really clunky at the moment, even more than normal...
Can't wait for the 'judder free' AP organic clutch to be installed!!
Also, gears and becoming harder and harder to slot in, they feel really clunky at the moment, even more than normal...
Can't wait for the 'judder free' AP organic clutch to be installed!!
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Right then, I have had my new clutch installed by HDC Subaru (Halifax).
First of all, a massive thumbs up to Howard who did all the work in one day as promised which is just how a garage should be.
I've now got the AP Racing Organic clutch installed and all I can say is the car is now an absolute dream to drive, NO JUDDER, no violent vibrations, just drives like the day I bought her. (a massive sigh of relief).
The Excedy Single Plate paddle clutch is in a right mess:
(Large Pic Here)
(Large Pic Here)
(Large Pic Here)
(Large Pic Here)
(Large Pic Here)
(Large Pic Here)
(Large Pic Here)
When I first took delivery of the car after the rebuild from ScoobyClinic, the car judderded and shook violently if I got the clutch 'wrong'.
(I thought this was a characteristic of the Excedy clutch, but I've since been told otherwise)
I've since spoke to Kev @ ScoobyClinic and he's informed me this is a wear and tear item and there's nothing they can do about it.
I've since worked out that this issue has cost me nearly 2K. £850 for the original clutch, £500 for the AP clutch, + fitting, fuel, etc...
First of all, a massive thumbs up to Howard who did all the work in one day as promised which is just how a garage should be.
I've now got the AP Racing Organic clutch installed and all I can say is the car is now an absolute dream to drive, NO JUDDER, no violent vibrations, just drives like the day I bought her. (a massive sigh of relief).
The Excedy Single Plate paddle clutch is in a right mess:
(Large Pic Here)
(Large Pic Here)
(Large Pic Here)
(Large Pic Here)
(Large Pic Here)
(Large Pic Here)
(Large Pic Here)
When I first took delivery of the car after the rebuild from ScoobyClinic, the car judderded and shook violently if I got the clutch 'wrong'.
(I thought this was a characteristic of the Excedy clutch, but I've since been told otherwise)
I've since spoke to Kev @ ScoobyClinic and he's informed me this is a wear and tear item and there's nothing they can do about it.
I've since worked out that this issue has cost me nearly 2K. £850 for the original clutch, £500 for the AP clutch, + fitting, fuel, etc...
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Mikey That clutch didn't look at all like that when we refitted it after the straight cut conversion, OR we wouldn't have fitted it.
It has had a hard time though, but the pictures are not un-typical for a ceramic clutch doing its job. Part [ or maybe all ] of the problem is that the ceramic material is very aggressive and you cannot run a cast iron flywheel with a ceramic or the heat cracks and blisters will appear almost immediately.
A steel billet flywheel resists that. BUT the cover plate pressure pad is always a cast iron piece in a sngle plate [ essentially modified standard ] clutch cover. They upgrade the spring clamping pressure but otherwise leave it alone. The ceramic tears the cast iron to bits just the same as it would a cast flywheel.
All manufacturers single plate ceramic covers that I have ever seen, do the same. It is meant as a competition clutch after all and would not be expected to last in a day to day hard driving road car situation. You know the sort of maintenance that rally and race cars get. Which obviously isn't practical on a road car.
Wear and tear is what it is. 'Fair ' wear and tear, is another matter.
David APi
It has had a hard time though, but the pictures are not un-typical for a ceramic clutch doing its job. Part [ or maybe all ] of the problem is that the ceramic material is very aggressive and you cannot run a cast iron flywheel with a ceramic or the heat cracks and blisters will appear almost immediately.
A steel billet flywheel resists that. BUT the cover plate pressure pad is always a cast iron piece in a sngle plate [ essentially modified standard ] clutch cover. They upgrade the spring clamping pressure but otherwise leave it alone. The ceramic tears the cast iron to bits just the same as it would a cast flywheel.
All manufacturers single plate ceramic covers that I have ever seen, do the same. It is meant as a competition clutch after all and would not be expected to last in a day to day hard driving road car situation. You know the sort of maintenance that rally and race cars get. Which obviously isn't practical on a road car.
Wear and tear is what it is. 'Fair ' wear and tear, is another matter.
David APi
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#29
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Yes it could. Paddle clutches are *******s for every day use, and are only intended for motorsport application IMO. They do not like being continuosly slipped, which is what happens on daily drivers.
That is wear and tear for a paddle clutch IMO.
That is wear and tear for a paddle clutch IMO.