Recommended power upgrade on my P1 ??
#1
I have finally achieved the stage were I am very pleased with the car's set up, suspension, brakes, etc...and having now got to know the car and all it's characteristics I now need more power.
It's current power stage is a TSL downpipe (unblanked) scorpion mid and backbox - decatted and an ITG panel filter.
I'm currently at 302 bhp with 286 lbs of torque.
I intend to do many more track days next year, all SIDC events and a few after market ones too, it's these that I want to improve my power range on as most times I'm out with big bhp/torque EVO's and whilst no probs on corners and twisties I'm struggling on the straights.
The important thing is that I dont want to get into the boudaries of unreliability......so...as many suggestions as possible to try and get a clear line of thought...any manufacturers/suppliers wanting to be involved and help out in any way in return for their logo's placed over my car would be welcome.....I will be doing at least 2 a month next year
Thanking you in anticipation.
[Edited by Mellow Yellow ! - 12/24/2001 11:34:22 AM]
It's current power stage is a TSL downpipe (unblanked) scorpion mid and backbox - decatted and an ITG panel filter.
I'm currently at 302 bhp with 286 lbs of torque.
I intend to do many more track days next year, all SIDC events and a few after market ones too, it's these that I want to improve my power range on as most times I'm out with big bhp/torque EVO's and whilst no probs on corners and twisties I'm struggling on the straights.
The important thing is that I dont want to get into the boudaries of unreliability......so...as many suggestions as possible to try and get a clear line of thought...any manufacturers/suppliers wanting to be involved and help out in any way in return for their logo's placed over my car would be welcome.....I will be doing at least 2 a month next year
Thanking you in anticipation.
[Edited by Mellow Yellow ! - 12/24/2001 11:34:22 AM]
#2
hi...
302/286 sounds very impressive with the power mods you've done
personally id port the manifold and add a link to start with. next step after that is when it starts to get a lot more costly (hybrid turbo, fmic, larger injectors, remaps etc)
sounds like you've got a great car there
302/286 sounds very impressive with the power mods you've done
personally id port the manifold and add a link to start with. next step after that is when it starts to get a lot more costly (hybrid turbo, fmic, larger injectors, remaps etc)
sounds like you've got a great car there
#5
Chris
Where did you get the mods done? I'm after some more power for mine as well (but also want to keep reliability - 310bhp at the mo, but less torque than yours, I've still got my cat though!)
Cheers
Andy
Where did you get the mods done? I'm after some more power for mine as well (but also want to keep reliability - 310bhp at the mo, but less torque than yours, I've still got my cat though!)
Cheers
Andy
#7
Christian....... 1st stage I'm looking to spend circa £3k (ish)...I know lots of peeps who have FMIC's....links....bigger turbo's....etc....and it seems some routes tend to become unreliable the more intricate the mod becomes....I dont know...I'd like to achieve far more torque over BHP to give me that bit more umph....when gunning it down the longer straights with the bigger boys
Andy...TSL & Scoobymania have been the two main suppliers of my mods so far.....I added up the other day and I've spent at least £10k + and I ain't finished yet
Andy...TSL & Scoobymania have been the two main suppliers of my mods so far.....I added up the other day and I've spent at least £10k + and I ain't finished yet
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#8
What you mean is, you want about 360/330 then eh?
Loadsa torque won't help you much on circuits like Donno or anywhere with a long straight - extra bhp higher up will - what you need to do (as I've told you at least 10,000 times ) is decide how much you are prepared to compromise road performance with track performance.
Something great on track will be very compromised on road and vice versa.
A nice bolt on upgrade (free plug here ) would be an APS RT spec kit - FMIC, VF22, unichip, full exhaust, induction etc. You will get a nice healthy increase in power and torque from that whilst still retaining most of the driveability for road - it'll be a little more laggy but the mid and top end will be vastly improved.
Loadsa torque won't help you much on circuits like Donno or anywhere with a long straight - extra bhp higher up will - what you need to do (as I've told you at least 10,000 times ) is decide how much you are prepared to compromise road performance with track performance.
Something great on track will be very compromised on road and vice versa.
A nice bolt on upgrade (free plug here ) would be an APS RT spec kit - FMIC, VF22, unichip, full exhaust, induction etc. You will get a nice healthy increase in power and torque from that whilst still retaining most of the driveability for road - it'll be a little more laggy but the mid and top end will be vastly improved.
#12
Mellow,
with 3k and looking for reliability....
....I would go for Vf23 Hybrid, a la BRD, this flows more air than a standard VF22 and spools up very early with the right downpipe. I can get 0.4bar at 2500, 1bar at 3000rpm, OK that is with high load, i.e. hill, but on the flat I will achieve 1bar at 3200rpm.
This is very driveable. Then to add more driveability, good downpipe, I use S/S 3in custom special (although Pete has suddenly had a run of orders ) and something to control fuel, boost and ignition - I use a Link, Unichip could be used, but I have heard of bad experiences on track with boost control - depends on how you manage the boost, Motec, Pectel, etc.
This is all good stuff, but if you want reliable power on track one thing I would recommend over and above anything else is water injection.
It is a superb mod that enables you to maintain power levels on track through vastly superior in-cylinder cooling. Standard ECU will acheive this by retarding ignition and dumping fuel - both losing you power - WI helps you maintain optimum temps and power throughtout a track session. Made a HUGE difference to my car on track! I managed to squeeze past one or two P1s on the straight at Bedford last time!
I have to say tho' that in the wet the Evo VI had the better of me in the twisty bits!
Cheers,
Trout
with 3k and looking for reliability....
....I would go for Vf23 Hybrid, a la BRD, this flows more air than a standard VF22 and spools up very early with the right downpipe. I can get 0.4bar at 2500, 1bar at 3000rpm, OK that is with high load, i.e. hill, but on the flat I will achieve 1bar at 3200rpm.
This is very driveable. Then to add more driveability, good downpipe, I use S/S 3in custom special (although Pete has suddenly had a run of orders ) and something to control fuel, boost and ignition - I use a Link, Unichip could be used, but I have heard of bad experiences on track with boost control - depends on how you manage the boost, Motec, Pectel, etc.
This is all good stuff, but if you want reliable power on track one thing I would recommend over and above anything else is water injection.
It is a superb mod that enables you to maintain power levels on track through vastly superior in-cylinder cooling. Standard ECU will acheive this by retarding ignition and dumping fuel - both losing you power - WI helps you maintain optimum temps and power throughtout a track session. Made a HUGE difference to my car on track! I managed to squeeze past one or two P1s on the straight at Bedford last time!
I have to say tho' that in the wet the Evo VI had the better of me in the twisty bits!
Cheers,
Trout
#16
Mellow,
I've been looking at this as well...
Lots of things you can do, but for me, it's one stage at a time... For any mod that you make beyond what you have done, you will have to change the ECU to take full advantage; so do that first... Link is easiest, maybe Motec is best - but it cost$$$$
Anyway point being, if you do the chip now you will almost certainly make more of what you already have... then start doing the turbo, injectors, FMIC etc etc etc.....
Cheers..
...©
I've been looking at this as well...
Lots of things you can do, but for me, it's one stage at a time... For any mod that you make beyond what you have done, you will have to change the ECU to take full advantage; so do that first... Link is easiest, maybe Motec is best - but it cost$$$$
Anyway point being, if you do the chip now you will almost certainly make more of what you already have... then start doing the turbo, injectors, FMIC etc etc etc.....
Cheers..
...©
#18
Suspension is currently DMS Gold's 40mm.
Uprated anti-roll bar links/bushes...anti-lift kit...front lower strut brace...rear roll cage afixed to rear top mounts resulting in a very stiff car....brakes are 6 pot AP's with either DS2500's or race spec DS3000 +
Uprated anti-roll bar links/bushes...anti-lift kit...front lower strut brace...rear roll cage afixed to rear top mounts resulting in a very stiff car....brakes are 6 pot AP's with either DS2500's or race spec DS3000 +
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