Luke

Going live!!!
Went to fit my Dawes today. Could not understand pipe work!!!
Found Turbo output nipple and Wastegate input.Could not find "T"piece.
The old hose from T.O.N went to valve bottom of valve infront of suspension strut.it has a clear top and a round cylinder thing with 4 holes on the side. the old hose from the W.I went to the top of same valve. nearest "T" icould see was right next door to this valve with very small hoses.

So what am I doing wrong???
What happens to the old hoses???


HELLLLLLLLP!!!

Photos and all the help needed!!

Remember its a 94uk single turbo.

Will go Live tomorrow again !! about 10am Anyone free for a bit of on the spot phone help????

Luke

07958425508

HarryBoy

Hi Luke, Sorry I have no experience on the three port solenoid setup. Somebody did post about it though in the origonal thread, have a look back through it, there may have been some photos's as well....


Harry

Found it http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/threa...D=49691&Page=2

Half way down post by Jay m A





[Edited by HarryBoy - 1/7/2002 11:37:23 PM]

john banks

Sorry not a clue. I know MY99/00 and that is it. Scott.T has a MY94 IIRC? Or is yours a Legacy? GavinP may be able to help. Can you put any photos up?

Luke

Have found Gavins post. Yes mine is a Legacy.

So No t.piece and no blanking off...Easy!!! maybe i can do it.

So all i have to do is remove 2 x old hoses ,join them together to form "Loop" and then fit Dawes in place...
Any back up for this method appreciated!!! Not questioning you Gavin, but all help needed.



Luke

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

Info knicked from Jay M A.....but as he's says he followed my origional instruction, and has supplied piccies.

OK, heres how I did mine, a MY95 WRX. This should apply to cars pre97, I think. Before I go on, a big thanks to all involved, especially the early posters on this thread and the "How to fit" thread. Basically I followed Scott's method, except where he joins the left over tubes together, I just blanked them off with bolts.

Heres what it looks like once fitted - note I haven't clamped the tube at the time, since I hadn't set the MBC up. Once you start adjusting the MBC it twists the tube, so once you have set it to the correct level and made sure the tube isn't twisted, then clamp it!



The grey box on the left is the airbox after the MAF just to get your bearings!

This pic is with the main air intake hose removed - you have to remove this to get to everything.



Hose 2 used to be fitted where hose 1 is now. I blanked off hose 2 with a bolt
Hose 1 is from the elbow end of the MBC. This is the hose provided with the MBC, shortened by 50mm.
Hose 3 and 4 used to be connected together with a joiner. When disconnecting these, keep the joiner on hose 3 and attach to it the 50mm of leftover silver tube. Then fit the other end of the MBC to the silver hose.
I blanked off hose 4 with a bolt.

Sorry that hose 3 isn't clearly labelled, this is my first go at editing a digital piccy..

Anyway refit all tubes, forget to clamp the actuator nipple, take everything apart again, fit clamp and refit everything again! Well thats how I did it anyway

Good luck all, and make sure you use a boost gauge when setting it up!!

MY ORIGIONAL FITTING INSTRUCTION FOR PRE'97 IMPREZA

Finally fitted the MBC this afternoon as follows (Applies to MY94 and any other with 3-Way Boost Control Solenoids):

1. Removed the stock pipe from the Actuator Nipple.
2. Connected 1/2 the silver hose supplied to the Actuator.
3. Connected the other end to the right angled connection on the MBC.
4. Disconnected the stock pipe to the Boost Control Solenoid at the joiner (just in front of the induction hose, under the breather pipe.
5. Cut the remaining half of the Silver hose to about 50mm and connect this to the hose joiner and the straight end of the MBC.

This then places the MBC directly between the Actuator and the Turbo outlet nipple.
The Boost Control Solenoid is left connected electrically only, and the hoses blanked off.

Setting Up :

I knew the MBC was set to around 6psi, so un-done the locknut and shortened by about 2 full turns.
This gave me 10psi in 3rd.
Adjusted the MBC again for about another couple of turns, which then gave me 14psi.

With the MBC insalled I now get a constant 14psi and the car seems to pull better at higher revs.

So Far so good, not so hard after all.

[Edited by Scott.T - 1/8/2002 8:39:25 AM]

Luke

Would Blanking the old hoses off be better than joining them ????

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

Makes no difference.
It just stops air being drawn into the induction system via the connection between the Solenoid and intake expansion box.

GavinP

Luke - come on, you can do it ! Be careful about driving until you get used to it though - the boost comes in a lot earlier....

Jay - nice photos

Maybe it would be a good idea to put together a couple of web pages - one for each type of setup ? I can knock up a basic page with the details for the early setup (with Jay's permission to use his photos of course...) ?

My very basic HTML coding skills are shown in "all their glory" Here

If anyone is a little (LOT ? ) better at coding web pages, I can host them if needed.

Thanks

Gavin

Jay m A

iTrader: (2)

Gavin no probs mate

Justin

Luke

Thanks guys for all your help and calls. I fitted it !! It was so easy. have left it as it came out of the packet. I dont have a boost gauge and to be honest dont realy want one. JMA and i talked about getting it set up at "Power Station" etc. they shaold be better and safer than me mucking about. Also will probably be cheaper!!! Car does seem a bit quicker after 3k RPM.

Cheers


Luke

john banks

You are only getting a fraction of the benefit Luke. If you fit or borrow a boost gauge and plug it in you can just screw in the Dawes to what you want to run. Could even set it to standard boost in the midrange and enjoy better spool up and top end. As it is your boost could be lower than standard.

Luke

Do you know what John...??I am tempted to call round to "my mate Dave" get a case of good Single malt and drive up to your place!!!! Whilst I'm there Watching you sort it all out you can knock me up one of your little "Blackpool Illuminations" thing!!. Still have to locate a Good second hand gauge if I do fit one.

John if you had not studied medicine would you have liked to be an engineer???

Luke

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

Luke,

Get a gauge from http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/catalogue/instruments.htm for only about £23

I've got a 'Classic' White faced Mocal gauge with green backlight illumination.

Same gauge can be found at http://www.scoobyparts.com

but is about £10 more expensive.

Very pleased with it, and at that price it's gotta be worth it....

john banks

I got the right hand one of the two lower pictures. Under reads by 1PSI but so do some expensive gauges. Mine is secured strongly with a strategically placed cable tie having hacked off the light to make it smaller.

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

For some reason the top picture is different, but both are Mocal gauges.

I thought mine was of inferior quality as it didn't come to rest bang on '0' psi. But when I saw a Power Engineering gauge in a P1 it was alot further out when at rest, so I guess it ain't that bad.

Green 1.25W bulb from Halfords matches a treat too.

Luke

Where do you lot get all this info from??? and how do you keep it on your computer???!!! it amazes me how quick the replies come in.

OK will get a gauge. Are they easy to fit and where does it get plumbed into?/

Luke

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

Another Super Quick Response......

Boost Gauge Fitting....early models...pre97
http://www.scoobymods.co.uk/boostg01.htm

or 'T' in as below.....

mrp

I've just recently bought a UK MY96 (pre facelift) and have been trying to follow the threads about the dawes device. I had planned to eventually fit an ITG panel filter and possibly a SS centre section and back box. If I want to improve driveability (but keep reliability), would the dawes be a better option? I am currently seeing peak boost of 0.8bar and was wondering if the standard ECU could handle an increase to 1.0bar (the car is totally standard at the moment).

Any advice would be greatly received.

thanks

Martin

Scott.T

iTrader: (2)

mrp,

I run a UK 94 model and am currently running about 14-15psi, which is just over 1.0 Bar. So that shouldn't be a problem for you.

There are all sorts of threads on here reporting what the boost cut limit is on these models, but all reports give different levels, so I'm not sure what the ECU level is, although I don't think you'll be able to run much more than 16psi. As at this level on a cold morning it may boost slightly higher and cause the boost cut to activate.

I have a Dawes and a Bleed Valve (as I had that before the Dawes). At present I have just the Bleed Valve fitted and set to run about 15psi (registered on my gauge). But in the past I have run with just the Dawes and the Dawes and Blled Valve set up described by John.

I had the Bleed Valve fitted on my last visit to Power Engineering. They set it to approx 14psi and with the Scoobysport Backbox I had at the time, it recorded 234BHP. Although previous runs on the day were 240BHP - 242BHP, the lower reading was probably due to heat soak.

I shall change back to the Dawes shortly, but at present am experimenting with the various set-ups to see which one I prefer.

Jay m A

iTrader: (2)

On the subject of boost cut on the earlier models, I got it at about 1.1 kg/cm2 (1.07 bar) on my boost gauge which no doubt under-reads. Its not straight away either, I've seen as much as 1.15 peak then it will cut after holding at 1.1 for a second or so.

FYI before the Dawes I used to have 1.0 peak 0.95 held as seen on my gauge which PE saw as 1.0 bar held on their gauge at a recent dyno run.

Justin

john banks

Good thing about the Dawes is even if you are limited in how much you put the boost up you still gain with earlier and quicker spool up and more at the top end which is probably the most significant effect if your midrange is already near the limit.

GavinP

In the "Training WRX" book and from my tinkering, the fuel cut for 94-96 cars is 15.5psi.

Before I had the Link fitted, I ran with a bleed valve for a while and the fuel cut came in at 15psi - as with John, I now know that my boost gauge under-reads.....

Thanks

Gavin

mrp

Thanks for your advice. I think I'll soon be investing in the Dawes. I am assuming that I can fit it by itself? (was just wondering why some have also fitted a bleed valve - please excuse my lack of knowledge in these things).

Martin

GavinP

I used a bleed valve before having the new ECU fitted (when it was removed) - and now use a Dawes in addition to the Link.

John is the man to answer this but it is to tame the boost delivery / tune the boost curve in a nutshell (if I understand correctly).

The Dawes is VERY effective at keeping the wastegate shut so boost builds very quickly and can be a bit too fierce....

For early cars, the quicker build-up of boost is more important than running more boost IMHO.

I would bet that a 94-96 with a Dawes running 12psi would leave another 94-96 WRX running 14psi using a bleed valve trailing in the real world. This is due to the vastly better throttle response and steeper boost curve.

Thanks

Gavin

john banks

Just as Gavin says. On a small turbo car it can spool up so quickly that a small throttle movement gives you an extra 10PSI boost. Great for a few minutes and then you appreciate a bit more finesse. The bleed adjusts the response time, but you can still get the same performance once spooled up.

Chris.Palmer

Another late starter - now very interested in fitting a DD to My96.

Could someone post a link to the original How-to thread (Sorry search engine down & I've tried to find it manually without any luck).

Would also be interested in a group buy - if it is still going or maybe a new one.

Thanks in advance.

Chris

Chris.Palmer

Cheers Scott - your piccies & description of fitting the dawes are pretty clear.

I've just got myself completely confused over the recent discussions of also fitting a bleed valve as well. Is this recommended for a pre 97 or is it not so important due to the larger turbo and slower spool up?

PS is the group buy still on?

john banks

Try it and see. You can easily add a bleed or drill a hole later if you want to.

Chris.Palmer

Ok, I've re-read as many of the recent threads as possible & I think my numptie non-techie brain is finally starting to understand all of this.

So just prove myself complete wrong - I thought I'd ask a couple of stupid questions, if I may:

I've read that the DD needs be screwed quite a long way for Scoobies, and there has been some discussions of spring stretching to counteract this. Will the addition of the bleed valve (ie reducing pressure into the DD) mean that less turns are required to reach desired boost or have I mis-understood again?

Also - Assuming the boost guage under-reads by about 1PSI (which seems to be confirmed here, although I always naively assumed they were accurate). On My96 (running Optimax) can I safely run to a reading on the Boost Guage of approx 14.5 PSI Peak & Hold about 11.3 PSI.

Thanks in advance again.

Chris

PS - Should I collect my coat and go to the muppet forum or can I stay

john banks

All correct! except I don't get the "about 11.3 PSI" bit. I think 14.5 PSI would be sensible - what does it run as standard held boost at say 4000rpm - maybe pick that and get faster spool up and more at the top end?