How to identify classic diff and shaft options
#1
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How to identify classic diff and shaft options
I have finally taken delivery of a 5spd DCCD gearbox, gearbox code TY752VB5CA.
It's hopefully going into my 1993 WRX wagon.
Have found it on spda trans chart and SIDC. Its from a sti RA, and as far as I can tell from SIDC it has an R180 rear diff. I've checked where the shafts connect to the diff and they both appear to be the same size, the diff has 13A written on it. Any way to confirm what diff this is (R160/R180) before pulling mine out. I'd rather iron the problems out before removing my diff so the car is not off the road for too long. If it is an R180 is there any way of keeping my hubs/brakes? I read on here you can canibalise a set of R180 and R160 shafts to make a set that fit an R180 diff with the R160 hubs. Anyone have details on how to this?
thanks
will
It's hopefully going into my 1993 WRX wagon.
Have found it on spda trans chart and SIDC. Its from a sti RA, and as far as I can tell from SIDC it has an R180 rear diff. I've checked where the shafts connect to the diff and they both appear to be the same size, the diff has 13A written on it. Any way to confirm what diff this is (R160/R180) before pulling mine out. I'd rather iron the problems out before removing my diff so the car is not off the road for too long. If it is an R180 is there any way of keeping my hubs/brakes? I read on here you can canibalise a set of R180 and R160 shafts to make a set that fit an R180 diff with the R160 hubs. Anyone have details on how to this?
thanks
will
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The number refers to the approx size of the crownwheel diameter, so remove the back cover and get out your ruler...an R160 diff is 120mm across the crownwheel bolts, I don't have the exact size for a scoob R180 but the Hitachi R180 in a Nissan 200SX is 135mm across the bolts.
Simon
Simon
#3
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Nearly certain its an R180, are R160 4.444's easy to come by, or can the driveshafts be modded in any way to fit the R180 diff and hubs meant for R160?
#4
R160 viscous and open rear diffs are pleantyful in 4:444, but plated ones are certainly not.
The drive shafts are different between the plated and the others. I have fought this lot out myself.
To get the job done properly simply call David at Welcome to the API website as he has the answers and the parts you will need to fit and forget.
Graham
The drive shafts are different between the plated and the others. I have fought this lot out myself.
To get the job done properly simply call David at Welcome to the API website as he has the answers and the parts you will need to fit and forget.
Graham
#5
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I will get round to phoning api to see what they can do for me on this.
Is plated another name for a viscous LSD? If so they seem to be in reasonably good supply in the USA. Have managed to find someone out there with one (defo R160, 4.444) and a pair of shafts for it for very reasonable money. Only problem is getting it over here, they do weigh a fair amount.
Once you had all of the bits was it a reasonably doable job to change the box diff and rear shafts graham?
Cheers
Will
Is plated another name for a viscous LSD? If so they seem to be in reasonably good supply in the USA. Have managed to find someone out there with one (defo R160, 4.444) and a pair of shafts for it for very reasonable money. Only problem is getting it over here, they do weigh a fair amount.
Once you had all of the bits was it a reasonably doable job to change the box diff and rear shafts graham?
Cheers
Will
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No, plated is a mechanical LSD not viscous.
Know I might get crucified for this but, the main reason for the plated R180 in the rear is the extra demand imposed by the DCCD on the rear.
An R160 should be able to cope with a plated LSD centre in it.
This would mean you could get the appropriate crown and pinion set (3.900 V2 wrx sti, 4.444 NA 2.0 twin cam Legacy Auto's and 4.111 V2 wrx are common early JDM rear diff sets in R160 with viscous centres) then choose a plated centre to go in it.
You should be able to match shafts to this (have to remove the dicks from the Legacy diff) although there are a couple of different snap ring options even within R160's.
Know I might get crucified for this but, the main reason for the plated R180 in the rear is the extra demand imposed by the DCCD on the rear.
An R160 should be able to cope with a plated LSD centre in it.
This would mean you could get the appropriate crown and pinion set (3.900 V2 wrx sti, 4.444 NA 2.0 twin cam Legacy Auto's and 4.111 V2 wrx are common early JDM rear diff sets in R160 with viscous centres) then choose a plated centre to go in it.
You should be able to match shafts to this (have to remove the dicks from the Legacy diff) although there are a couple of different snap ring options even within R160's.
Last edited by 97RA; 28 November 2007 at 12:54 AM.
#7
Changing the box/diff is easy but hard work and all the parts are heavy, so due car is needed. I have swoped mine over about 5 times now. My record for getting the rear diff right out of the rear is 60 minutes.
The shafts come out easy with the right technique (a sharp snap with a pry bar).
The snap rings can be a bitch or your best friend!
I have a 360bhp/ 350 lbft engine running through a Type R dccd box with a tight plated 4:444 R160 diff and the car uses slick tyres by AVON and after 140+ drag starts all is well.
You MUST have the right shafts for a given diff, and the snap rings MUST be in the correct place for the diff internal grooves that allow the rings (actually a thin spring steel wire 'C' shaped clip) to open into. If the rings do not position right then you will shatter a shaft right inside the diff as I did and you will need the diff out and fully stripped to wash all the shards of steel out of the diff!
At a guess there are 3 types of shafts for the R160 diff designs, and the R180 diffs are different.
This is my plated R160 with CORRECT shafts all from API.
Graham.
ps: David can easily export the parts to you. Weight is about 25Kg (50lb) and he can cost it all for you too. I know API well and totally trust them as a customer.
http://i5.tinypic.com/86yrs6e.jpg
The shafts come out easy with the right technique (a sharp snap with a pry bar).
The snap rings can be a bitch or your best friend!
I have a 360bhp/ 350 lbft engine running through a Type R dccd box with a tight plated 4:444 R160 diff and the car uses slick tyres by AVON and after 140+ drag starts all is well.
You MUST have the right shafts for a given diff, and the snap rings MUST be in the correct place for the diff internal grooves that allow the rings (actually a thin spring steel wire 'C' shaped clip) to open into. If the rings do not position right then you will shatter a shaft right inside the diff as I did and you will need the diff out and fully stripped to wash all the shards of steel out of the diff!
At a guess there are 3 types of shafts for the R160 diff designs, and the R180 diffs are different.
This is my plated R160 with CORRECT shafts all from API.
Graham.
ps: David can easily export the parts to you. Weight is about 25Kg (50lb) and he can cost it all for you too. I know API well and totally trust them as a customer.
http://i5.tinypic.com/86yrs6e.jpg
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#8
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Think I have this sorted now with a huge help from you 911 to clear up the confusion with R160 diffs. Have located a plated R160, supposedly with matching shafts but I'm just going to have to double check the shafts. Then the real fun begins, my first ever gearbox/diff change on a subaru!
#9
The parts are heavy when falling out of the car....getting the box actually off the back of the engine will be easy (rare) or REALLY hard (normal).
Get the right oils for the box and plated diffs.
And in your tool box find a good box of swear words and if some mates come to help you you may loose them half way through or loose them forever!
Have fun (done it 5 times....no mates left either when the job needs doing)
Get the right oils for the box and plated diffs.
And in your tool box find a good box of swear words and if some mates come to help you you may loose them half way through or loose them forever!
Have fun (done it 5 times....no mates left either when the job needs doing)
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My Forester runs a 4.444 FDR but some have a transfer gear cluster (similar to UK turbo Impreza) and a 4.11 diff, others 1:1 transfer and 4.444 diff, have just picked up a plated 4.11 myself (here's hoping mines got a 4.11 rear diff or its rebuild time!) to fit.....so will need to check out my circlip status, superficailly it loks like this AM diff is set up to use VC driveshafts with longer length of splining the the one side than the other....
Simon
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