Hi Rikki

a. The Dawes is a boost controller and allows the turbo to spool up sooner and hold a boost for longer (in lamens terms ) Yes there is only one product that people have used at the moment (AFAIK).

b. It's $35, so somewhere between £25-£30 (see the group buy thread )

c. Yes, the website also has fitting instructions. If you search through Drivetrain you will see a lot of threads relating to this.

d. Both myself and a friend (ScoobyJawa) fitted the Dawes before attending a rolling road day at Power Engineering and without fine tuning the Dawes we saw 268 and 266 bhp respectively and 251 and 257 lbs/ft of torque (See Here). The only difference (apart from weather) in this run and a previous run was the Dawes and the difference was 13bhp and almost 20 lbs/ft torque

Both of us were also running 1 bar held, so this is a rough guideline for you.

e) AFAIK it should do. You will have to check the ECU fuel cut beforehand (I'm sure somebody will post this ) to see what boost you can hold.


[Edited by Scott W - 2/1/2002 9:16:43 PM]

 

Don't moan at me for posting this but I have seen so many other Dawes posts....

Could somone briefly explain

a) what the Dawes thing is all about? Is it one product everyone is talking about or different Dawes products?

b) how much is it roughly?

c) can you fit it yourself?

d) why there are huge power figures for UK cars that appear to be running 'moderate boost'

e) my WRX peaks at 1.1Bar and holds 0.9 Bar - would it help me?

I will read all the other posts when I have a bit of time but I feel like something is passing me by here and I want to know a bit about it.


Thank you
Rikki

 

Just to let you know contact me if you'd like ot be on the group buy. Only a few days before deadline, and more info will be going on my site this weekend.

 

i saw the figures - VERY impressive.

I would like to know how much it would help me on a 95 WRX peaking at 1.1 Bar and holding 0.9 Bar - these figures sound close to yours.

I am not sure where the cut is on mine but i think it is 1.2Bar which would suggest I am already boosting as high as poss at 1.1 Bar? Please correct me if I am wrong - I am not too hot on this.

Thanks
Rik

 

So would it fit on a Jap grey Forester turbo?
The boost is held all through the rev range at 0.75 Bar.
Don't know which turbo it is but the engine is meant to be the same as the WRX estate MY97 (240 bhp?).
Any other details needed before ordering with the group?

Regards
Nick

 

Should work no problem, to be part of the group buy email me, and also speak to John Banks who has various posts on here he will guide you about hole diameters need for your car etc.

 

I am not an expert on Japanese imports. However I know seven things:

1. They tend to run lower boost (more so earlier models) and have lower fuel cuts.
2. They are mapped for 100 octane fuel and can even det as standard on 98 octane, whereas as standard UK car should be nowhere near detting on 95 octane.
3. They tend to have bigger turbos (TD05 I believe in your case) which removes the need for any extra bleed hole.
4. The MAF sensor sometimes saturate and therefore do no fuel adequately at higher boost.
5. Fuel cut is not always much or any higher than your peak boost. On late models at least it is timer based - so I could happily peak at 20 PSI but hold it for 4 seconds and fuel cut.
6. The intercoolers are small for running big boost.
7. The fuel injectors can be smaller than later models.


For reasons 2,4,5,(7 sometimes) I have advised import or P1 owners to get remaps instead. But if you understand the limitations it could be tried, but do not underestimate the effect of a Dawes on performance and possibly engine safety by even running at standard boost as it will hold that as long as your turbo/actuator setup will allow.

To keep it safe you would (IMHO) need to monitor:

1. Boost
2. Air fuel ratio from lambda sensor
3. Exhaust gas temperature
4. Knock
5. Ignition advance

.. on a Jap import at least during setting up. UK cars are very different (esp late models) and you can get away with just 1 & 2 and I recommend a check of 5 on a select monitor after setting up to be sure.

Hope this helps.

 

Ok thanks John. I think i will leave it for now as I am quite happy with the way it is running.

Rikki

 

Rikki

I have a MY95 WRX with a Dawes. On the road I run 1.0 bar peak and held, however on a rolling road the setting gives me 0.95 held (its a loading thing). I ran on the same day as the other two guys on this thread at PE, my results can be found at

http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/thread.asp?threadid=67844

This will also tell you the other mods to my car, as well as my views on how safe this setup is.

The main issues with running increased boost on jap import ECUs is its (limited) ability to retard ignition to compensate for the lower RON fuel we get over here. Running on 95RON on our cars means the ECU retarding ignition as much as it can, and often this isn't enough. On 97 RON you have a bit more of a safety margin, but for sustained periods of raised boost on a hot day it may not be enough. Who knows?. All I know is that I run SUL and octane booster always, and double the OB dose for my trackdays. These cars are'nt cheap to run and I don't mind paying an extra £3 a tank for peace of mind!

Justin

 

Rikki,

The advantage of the Dawes for early cars is the keeping the wastegate closed to maximise boost buildup. Feels like less lag.
Transforms the car - much faster A to B.

The early WRX ECU has the fuel cut at 15.5psi so as long as you keep within this, there is unlikely to be a problem - however setting the car up on a rolling road monitoring the air/fuel etc is as always advisable with any type of mod.

Early cars are not as "near the edge" as the later cars and can be run on 95 RON (standard boost and no mods) at reduced power. Using 97RON or Optimax is a good precaution and necessary with mods IMHO.

Thanks

Gavin