Increasing volumetric efficiency - Flowing the uppipe/manifold?
#1
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If you can get the uppipe off is this a Dremel type DIY job - I seem to remember from what some said before that it was and you can tell by soot marks where to smooth. Are there obvious lips and steps that are worth smoothing off? Which is the most to benefit the uppiped or the manifold? Any hints? How long does the tool need to be for access? Any hazards? Is it really that difficult to do?
Some say it makes little difference on the standard car, but I will be able to advance the ignition to help out with the hopefully enhanced gas scavenging.
Just trying to free up breathing as much as possible but not at the expense of a new manifold, or the noise of a louder backbox or induction kit.
So far I have ITG panel filter (resonator still in and it will stay that way), Prodrive IC hoses/pipe, Magnex twin dump DP, STi decat centre, PPP BB. I want it quiet AND fast Apparently you can see straight through the STi centre section so it can't be that restrictive. I don't want any more noise than the PPP backbox even if it is a bit restrictive, but on full chat is does wake up and those at Knockhill said it sounded anything but tame
[Edited by john banks - 4/21/2002 11:35:33 AM]
Some say it makes little difference on the standard car, but I will be able to advance the ignition to help out with the hopefully enhanced gas scavenging.
Just trying to free up breathing as much as possible but not at the expense of a new manifold, or the noise of a louder backbox or induction kit.
So far I have ITG panel filter (resonator still in and it will stay that way), Prodrive IC hoses/pipe, Magnex twin dump DP, STi decat centre, PPP BB. I want it quiet AND fast Apparently you can see straight through the STi centre section so it can't be that restrictive. I don't want any more noise than the PPP backbox even if it is a bit restrictive, but on full chat is does wake up and those at Knockhill said it sounded anything but tame
[Edited by john banks - 4/21/2002 11:35:33 AM]
#2
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John,
When I first got my STi, I was led to believe that it had a centre cat. So I decided to change it to the Magnex centre section.
I went down to PE, and dyno'd the car first, then switched the centres whilst I was still there.
When we removed the stock CS, we found the info to be duff, but sinse I got the new part, fitted it anyway.
Then put it back on the dyno, and got across the board gains averaging 10bhp/10ftlbs !!!
The main problem with the up pipe, is the area that needs addressing, really needs some weldng work, before it can be ported properly, and then it's still not going to make a big difference due to the very restrictive design. IMO, you would be better ditching the stock part, and replacing it with a new aftermarket section.
When you inspect the headers, it will be very clear where the restrictions are. If you have the right tools (ideally a die grinder, and tungston carbide bit) but an electric drill, with flexy extention works too, the job can be done in about 1.5/2 hours. You ONLY need to remove the retrictions in the direction of flow.
This s certainly worth doing.
Mark.
When I first got my STi, I was led to believe that it had a centre cat. So I decided to change it to the Magnex centre section.
I went down to PE, and dyno'd the car first, then switched the centres whilst I was still there.
When we removed the stock CS, we found the info to be duff, but sinse I got the new part, fitted it anyway.
Then put it back on the dyno, and got across the board gains averaging 10bhp/10ftlbs !!!
The main problem with the up pipe, is the area that needs addressing, really needs some weldng work, before it can be ported properly, and then it's still not going to make a big difference due to the very restrictive design. IMO, you would be better ditching the stock part, and replacing it with a new aftermarket section.
When you inspect the headers, it will be very clear where the restrictions are. If you have the right tools (ideally a die grinder, and tungston carbide bit) but an electric drill, with flexy extention works too, the job can be done in about 1.5/2 hours. You ONLY need to remove the retrictions in the direction of flow.
This s certainly worth doing.
Mark.
#3
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John
If you *do* decide to fit a replacement up pipe, bear in mind there have been a number of reported cases on here recently of up pipe lower gaskets blowing due to *presumably* mismatched flanges.
Whilst this was on MY01's, as far as I know they are physically the same as the MY00 and prior so the same issues apply.
If you *do* decide to fit a replacement up pipe, bear in mind there have been a number of reported cases on here recently of up pipe lower gaskets blowing due to *presumably* mismatched flanges.
Whilst this was on MY01's, as far as I know they are physically the same as the MY00 and prior so the same issues apply.
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John, I have just removed an STi centre (Now on OZZY's car) and replaced it with a Magnex un-res centre. After removing the STi, I have to say internally it looks very good, both (small) resonators are straight through. I would conclude that there would be a very small gain at best.
---john---
---john---
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#9
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I had my centre replaced with a straight thorough TSL centre section. It appeared to have a cat but there wasnt one when it came off and we had a look. The car does seem to rev, breathe and pull easier and the noise level has gone up a few dbs for good measure. I am happy with the change and it simple and fair cheap upgrade. I have to say the centre that came off had only done 5,000 miles but looked very second hand.
cheers
chrisp
cheers
chrisp
#10
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r19ket...
What sort of tungsten carbide bit do you use and where can I get one from... as I have been doing all mine.. havent got to the up pipe yet... but the griding wheels in the die grinder are a bit slow if you know what I mean!!!
Think grinder can go up to 3/8ths...
David
What sort of tungsten carbide bit do you use and where can I get one from... as I have been doing all mine.. havent got to the up pipe yet... but the griding wheels in the die grinder are a bit slow if you know what I mean!!!
Think grinder can go up to 3/8ths...
David
#11
Uppipe from Scoobysport - slight flange mis-alignment, nothing too bad.
If your doing the headers (also recommended) just buy an uppipe. You probably don`t want to, but wait until you see the state of the standard part. As said above you can`t really flow it due to its design......
If your doing the headers (also recommended) just buy an uppipe. You probably don`t want to, but wait until you see the state of the standard part. As said above you can`t really flow it due to its design......
#12
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David,
I got the tungston bits from RS Components, but any "good" tool shop should do them. They're quite expensive, but will save a LOT of time.
Mark.
I got the tungston bits from RS Components, but any "good" tool shop should do them. They're quite expensive, but will save a LOT of time.
Mark.
#13
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James
"nothing too bad" ??????????
The lower gasket on the replacement up pipe on Carolyn's brand new STi7 totally blew apart in 2500 miles - and it's a triple layer laminated steel gasket. We put the OEM part back on......
[Edited by Dave T-S - 4/22/2002 9:09:04 AM]
"nothing too bad" ??????????
The lower gasket on the replacement up pipe on Carolyn's brand new STi7 totally blew apart in 2500 miles - and it's a triple layer laminated steel gasket. We put the OEM part back on......
[Edited by Dave T-S - 4/22/2002 9:09:04 AM]
#14
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Location: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
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Cheers Mark, Ill have a look..
Triple Laminated gasket... What the ^%$...
I thought gaskets were gaskets... (apart from head gaskets) and if they blow then its firegum for you!!!
David
Triple Laminated gasket... What the ^%$...
I thought gaskets were gaskets... (apart from head gaskets) and if they blow then its firegum for you!!!
David
#15
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Location: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
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I am ordering part no 690-877 (6x19 Ball nose cylinder cutter £9.61) from www.rswww.com if anybody is interested...
Cheers Mark..
David
Cheers Mark..
David
#16
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David,
6mm is way too small, you ideally want the 13mm, but 10mm is ok. I'd also go for the ball nose cone.
Mark.
6mm is way too small, you ideally want the 13mm, but 10mm is ok. I'd also go for the ball nose cone.
Mark.
#17
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doh... my ordering means send a mate that aint working... allready bought... Ill have a go and possibly by another... its not like ill be doing it every day...
David
David
#19
James,
I take it that you have had the Scoobysport uppipe fitted to your car - is your car a bug-eye or "classic" ?
I take it that it's a separate part and how much are they ?
I have seen posts on I-Club about replacing the uppipe on MY01+ models but nothing in the UK for earlier models....
Thanks
Gavin
I take it that you have had the Scoobysport uppipe fitted to your car - is your car a bug-eye or "classic" ?
I take it that it's a separate part and how much are they ?
I have seen posts on I-Club about replacing the uppipe on MY01+ models but nothing in the UK for earlier models....
Thanks
Gavin
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Gavin
£125+vat. It includes a boss for the 01 Exhaust Gas Temp sensor, which can be blocked off, or could take an EGT if such things interest you.
As James says, fits 01/02 and earlier cars. Will post pics later (no digi cam on me today).
£125+vat. It includes a boss for the 01 Exhaust Gas Temp sensor, which can be blocked off, or could take an EGT if such things interest you.
As James says, fits 01/02 and earlier cars. Will post pics later (no digi cam on me today).
#24
Pete,
Thanks - it would be great if you could post some pictures.
I haven't seen any posts about replacing the up-pipe on pre-MY01 cars before on Scoobynet so I would think a few people would be interested.
Thanks
Gavin
Thanks - it would be great if you could post some pictures.
I haven't seen any posts about replacing the up-pipe on pre-MY01 cars before on Scoobynet so I would think a few people would be interested.
Thanks
Gavin
#26
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Have had quite an experience in this area.
Well known Scooby company "ported" my headers. Found no difference.
Subsequently discovered they had done "minimal" work.
Then did the job properly & included the up pipe.
Performance gains noticable & confirmed by instrumentation.
The up pipe is sleeved & presents quite an obstacle to good gas flow.
Surgery involved is a bit brutal but effective. With my experience
I consider it best to pay a machine shop with :
a) A knowledge of gas flowing not just a rudimentary open it out approach.
b) The proper equipment.
Would add that I have done a fair bit of D/P experimentation leading me to expect that the D/P you have probably is ot the best but the improvements achievable while measureable wil not be large.
Hope this is helpful but ring me if you want to talk through my ongoing experiments in this area.
Well known Scooby company "ported" my headers. Found no difference.
Subsequently discovered they had done "minimal" work.
Then did the job properly & included the up pipe.
Performance gains noticable & confirmed by instrumentation.
The up pipe is sleeved & presents quite an obstacle to good gas flow.
Surgery involved is a bit brutal but effective. With my experience
I consider it best to pay a machine shop with :
a) A knowledge of gas flowing not just a rudimentary open it out approach.
b) The proper equipment.
Would add that I have done a fair bit of D/P experimentation leading me to expect that the D/P you have probably is ot the best but the improvements achievable while measureable wil not be large.
Hope this is helpful but ring me if you want to talk through my ongoing experiments in this area.
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We ported the headers on my car Thursday night (thanks Mio!) - marked difference to power delivery; it's much smoother now and pulls stronger across the rev range. For me, it's most noticeable off boost - tractability is much improved, engine now happy pootling at 60km/h in 5th.
Took Mio about an hour and a half - would have been less if it wasn't for the damned rusted heatshield bolt on rhs Once off, it's very obvious what needs to be done - but be careful not to go too far!
Also be aware that if you're running a Dawes, you may end up with part throttle boost issues - mine's changed since the headers, but I swapped my PPP for a tek2 (still with Dawes) yesterday as well. Need to swap back and confirm it's the header change causing it.
Richard
Took Mio about an hour and a half - would have been less if it wasn't for the damned rusted heatshield bolt on rhs Once off, it's very obvious what needs to be done - but be careful not to go too far!
Also be aware that if you're running a Dawes, you may end up with part throttle boost issues - mine's changed since the headers, but I swapped my PPP for a tek2 (still with Dawes) yesterday as well. Need to swap back and confirm it's the header change causing it.
Richard
#30
from JamesS
James
I was under the impression that the New Age STi uses the same uppipe as the classic shape, and whilst I agree that the design is restrictive (5mm waisting at the flexible joint), I haven't heard of any failing.
Anyone care to comment?
Duncan
[Edited by BugEyed - 4/29/2002 12:22:41 PM]
The standard part is HORRID and has apparently blown apart on a number of tuned cars!!!!!!!!!!
I was under the impression that the New Age STi uses the same uppipe as the classic shape, and whilst I agree that the design is restrictive (5mm waisting at the flexible joint), I haven't heard of any failing.
Anyone care to comment?
Duncan
[Edited by BugEyed - 4/29/2002 12:22:41 PM]