Mr Footlong

iTrader: (7)

Hi guys.

I have yet another problem with this "choice" example Blobeye that I bought off another member on here .

The DCCD keeps going to the green flashing error status. The car has spent more time at the tuners than with me for various other problems but alo because I had the god awful paddle clutch replaced with an ACT unit.

The problem is that the DCCD never errored out before the clutch was done (not blaming the tuners at all, just providing the info) and errored out within a couple of minutes of leaving the tuners from having the clutch done.

The car had to go back in for more work anyway so they were going to look at it then. In the mean time, the DCCD would almost always start off working when first setting off but within 5-10 minutes would go back to error status on the dash. I could also get it to error out pretty quickly if just firing up the car on the drive and leaving her for a few minutes.

Bloody annoyingly on the 50 min trip back to the tuners, it initially errored out as expected but I stopped for fuel and then it was fine for the rest of the trip there. The guys couldn't get it to error at all while with them and when I got the car back yesterday it appeared to be working fine, up until about 5 mins out from home.....

http://s1316.photobucket.com/user/mr...5519b.mp4.html - Yes, one of the previous owners thought that fake stick-on carbon looked good, I will have it out in due course.

That is a video showing the error, took it for the tuner yesterday just so they can be sure I am not going mad.

I am now in to this car for a loooot of money on top of what I bought it for back in June and am borderline calling it a day. I don't want to but as there is a spark of something there for me....

Any advice from Newage DCCD experts greatly appreciated.

Nick.

JdcTypeR

iTrader: (19)

They would of have to disconnected the loom for the dccd when removing the box.
Maybe there could be a bad connection at the connector. I'm pretty sure the connector is by the gearbox dipstick so it maybe worth a look.

Mr Footlong

iTrader: (7)

Sorry for the delay, thanks for that. The cabling is all loose down there due to no TMIC/bracket to help stop the wires from flapping about, I hadn't noticed due to hardly having the car on the drive since I bought it. I will clean all the connectors and cable tie them together for some stability.

Any other pointers gratefully received thanks.

scoobyboy1

iTrader: (16)

Gutted for you as you have had no luck with this car at all. But keep the faith im sure you will get it working and how you want it in due course!!!

I did made a offer on this car from the previous owner(matthewjdm????) which was refused, Really liked this car and was thinking of putting another offer in, but you ended up buying it when I had the extra cash!!!

Mr Footlong

iTrader: (7)

Honestly you dodged a bit of a bullet and I really shouldn't have been buying cars when my brain was clouded up with assorted chemo drugs at the time as I missed so many obvious things, I paid more than I should.

The main thing I missed was just how heavily the rear section got smacked in. It took me 4 days repairing/rustproofing/painting/straightening/resealing various things in the boot but now everything lines up better than it did and doesn't leak like a sieve anymore!
The car is a hell of a lot better now but that is after about £16k so far in buying the car and fixing/modding things.

I am seriously contemplating a 2.5/2.6 stroked lump with closed deck inserts for her......

scoobyboy1

iTrader: (16)

Yeah I did think it was overpriced when at £10.5k!! taking into account my mate has just bought a 45k mile Hawkeye STi JDM for less then that!!

I offered £8.5k which I think was a fair price, but then again it had billet turbo, rota's, coilovers and it was a JDM so I guess its quite hard to price that sort of car.

Id souce a 2 litre CDB and go for a 2.1 stroker in your car, would be nice with that billet turbo, and a lot cost a lot less then a forged 2.5/2.6!!

Mr Footlong

iTrader: (7)

Torque, torque, torque is what I am interested in above all and imo (not saying I am right at all) the best route to that is with a CDB-inserted 2.5. Since moving to Audis etc with smaller, punchier turbos with lots of torque and far more user-friendly power range (in general), I value that above all .

I know the weight comes in to it but my blob is hardly a lightweight. I have my suspicions about the current lump in there and so does my tuner so I won't be reworking that lump, I will start from scratch and do it properly.

I think I paid about £8.7k iirc. stretched to death rotas came off pretty sharpish, not me at all! This is what she currently looks like, WIP - https://www.scoobynet.com/showpost.p...&postcount=105

scoobyboy1

iTrader: (16)

My hawk made 377bhp 412lb/ft on its 2.5 with just basic bolt on mods!!! Turbo kicks in quite early and you can feel it pull really hard low down, but it doesnt like to rev much like the 2 litres/ 2.1 litres shame I cant have the best of both worlds!!

Would be interesting a 2.5 Twin scroll with a Billet turbo!! No lag and loads of torque!!!

banny sti

iTrader: (68)

2.35 for the best of both

Mr Footlong

iTrader: (7)

I will look in to it thanks Banny, early days for me currently. I am assuming that the 2.35 is a 2.5 lump with a reduced stroke crankshaft? real piece of string question but what sort of torque figures do you think we are talking about when mating that up to a SC465 twinscroll etc?

It is going to be a tossup between a new lump for this and a custom gearbox for the 6, they only way I will break 700ftlbs on that thing.

JdcTypeR

iTrader: (19)

The most common is a 2.2 cdb stroked to 2.35

Fat Boy

destroked 2.35 = 2.5 block with 2 litre crank leaves you facing the weaker block issues unless you put one of AS Performance's CBD inserts in. As undersquare = very revvy.

stroked 2.35 = 2.2 CBD with the 2.5 litre crank gives you the very strong 2.2 CBD block with the very strong oem 2.5 crank. Proven big power capable in multiple of the leading cars e.g. the LP/SDM Banana and still revvy.

Mr Footlong

iTrader: (7)

Guys, I tidied up/solidified the loose cables around the gearbox as well as I could and checked the connections. DCCD is still shagged, normally coming on within a few minutes of starting up, sometimes instantly, other times 10-15 mins down the road.

Are there any tuners/garages that specialize in DCCD systems? Ideally not up north but I will travel that far if needed.

Thanks.

dazdavies

iTrader: (22)

Sounds like a dodgy earth somewhere. There's an earth cable on the gearbox that would have been disconnected when the clutch replacement took place. By memory it's black with a red stripe have a look for that being loose.

Also when you're Having one of these episodes check your reverse lights are working. If not its definitely an earthing issue.

Mr Footlong

iTrader: (7)

Thanks Daz but I had a run around the obvious cabling points, cabled tied loose cables etc etc to firm them up and it still has a mind of its own. Some times the diff error doesn't come on for the length of a trip (not longer than 15 mins on avg), other times it comes on pretty well as soon as the car is started, like tonight.

No problem with the reverse light when is isn't working. Sick of it now to be honest.

There is one other thing that I don't remember my other scoobs doing when the gearboxes/diffs were healthy but I did have a 5 year break in ownership. When taking tight turns, such as pulling out of T junctions or pulling in to roads or tight roundabouts etc, the backend seems unsettled, as if a wheel is grabbing or is trying to spin at a much different rate to the others. This results in lurchiness if you follow seems to directly affect the drivetrain which in turn bogs the engine down very briefly until you have reduce the tightness of the turn.

This fecking car, I shower money time and love on it and it keeps trying to destroy itself. The car reeks of fuel during after every trip which is just the icing on the cake as the engine is heavily on borrowed time.

I need a known, professonal outfit that special in drivetrains but more importantly DCCD, to take this car away,fix and test the flaming thing to destruction before I torch it just to make me feel better .

Cheers,

Nick.

gazney101

iTrader: (5)

Dont api rebuild gearboxes?
im sure if there clever enough to diagnose your problem. Ive heard before that there lurchy at low speed tight manoeuvres so people set the diff to max rear and it makes it better.
I hope you get it sorted mate, if it only happened after the clutch change the only thing i suggest is retrace what you did, remove the box/engine, remove the clutch inspect for obvious damage and if nowt wrong refit clutch and refit box/engine it might be alright, if you still got old clutch fit that to the car see what happens.
I dont know just trying to help.

Good luck dont give up

Mr Footlong

iTrader: (7)

Thanks. Sadly I can't really try winding the diff back as it usually goes in to error mode soon after moving off but I will give it a try and see.

As for what I did, I didn't do anything to the box, it had a flaming awful paddle clutch monstrosity thing in it and I paid professionals I trust to tear that out and stamp on it, then fit in an uprated ACT clutch. After this is when it started playing up and they have already had another look and can't find anything wrong, so I have to bend over and pay someone that specializes in diffs/gearboxes/DCCD to sort it

tubbytommy

iTrader: (20)

just a thought but if the neutral position switch plays up it can throw up these faults.
the switches do fail but sometimes work on and off.


this could explain why the fault is not always present

gazney101

iTrader: (5)

Your diagnosis sounds probable

JTinnovations

iTrader: (2)

DCCD also depends on TPS by the way.

I have seen intermittent DCCD lights - also speedo sometimes misbehaving - and have traced it to poor contacts at the junction connection on top of the gearbox. I disconnected them, sprayed them, and re-connected and it's been fine ever since.

That connector has the NPS and speed sensor connections on it so a prime candidate for DCCD issues.

Mr Footlong

iTrader: (7)

Thanks guys. The NPS was replaced 2 years ago, but only 6k miles ago if that is of any use.

Where is the throttle position sensor located? I will go have a search but if you guys have part numbers for both of those that would be cool thanks.

Tim, it is a shame that you are at the other end of Hampshire or I would have humped your leg and greased your palm to double check things for me I had an op a couple of weeks ago that has heavily reduced my range of motion day-by-day in one of my arms so tinkering at the back of the engine has stopped until the physio can work her magic...

JTinnovations

iTrader: (2)

TPS is the throttle position sensor - located on the nearside of the throttle body at the rear of the inlet manifold.

Where are you based?

Mr Footlong

iTrader: (7)

I did wonder as there is something right next to the idle control valve (also playing up lol, have to take that apart and clean it....) that is NOT plugged in. I wondered if it had been disconnected due to the Alcatek ecu.

I am in Farnham, Surrey, edge of Hampshire.

JTinnovations

iTrader: (2)

If the TPS wasn't plugged in, I would think you would see no-end of running issues. In that vicinity there is really only the idle control solenoid and TPS, unless you have one of the few blob models (MY05 only, I think) that has an air charge temperature sensor in the inlet plenum, under the throttle body. More likely, perhaps, related to the TGV (tumble generator valves) which would not be used with your AlcaTek so could legitimately be unplugged, especially if you've had TGV-deletes?

Farnham is a bit of a distance for a specific journey, but I am happy to call in if I happen up that way although I have no plans at present. But if you're up to a drive, then you're very welcome to bring the car down here and I'll take a look?

The connectors I'm referring to on the top of the gearbox are a PITA to access if you're still on the top mount, but can probably wiggle a hand in - either that or the TMIC will need to be removed (doesn't take long).

Mr Footlong

iTrader: (7)

Here you go, picture of the disconnected bit, no idea where the plug actually is:



A poor shot of the wiring currently, was raining so rushed it:



Thanks for the offer, no rush with the car as it is one thing after another so I just drive the other cars. If you are somewhere around these parts one day then brilliant otherwise I may well try to get down to one day to have a look but long journeys (classified as anything over 30 mins in this thing lol) are not a strong point of this car.

JTinnovations

iTrader: (2)

The first pic is the MAP sensor: forgot about that one

Most likely explanation is you've had an uprated MAP sensor fitted? Probably with a vacuum hose going to it somewhere?

ICSV is the connector on the top, TPS is out of sight to the right of your FMIC pipework.

In the lower shot, you can see the connector that I had to clean - so looks accessible and definitely worth separating the two halves, cleaning up (WD40 for example) and reconnecting them. Maybe you can ask someone to help given your current inability to access them yourself?

I will probably be up at Surrey Rolling Road sometime in the next month, so can make a detour via Farnham on the way back: makes for a varied drive home using the A31 rather than M3

Mr Footlong

iTrader: (7)

Sorry for not coming back to you and thanks for tall of the information guys. Sadly I think I am going to sell the car. I am going to take about a 8k loss on it after all the work I had done since June and bits I bought but I am just not gelling with it.

I could cope with the crashy/knocky ride from the BC BR coilovers and could just about cope with the engine but the DCCD intermittent error is it for me. The error wasn't there before I had the clutch changed but despite going back nothing has been fixed sadly and I don't have the time to chase it.

The other half's nasty little flat finally sold this week and I have been working my backside off to increase our deposit to get a place together so whatever I get back from this car will go towards that .

I think that after four Scoobs my time is done, I will just get the V10 RS6 next year when funds allow after getting the house, turn the power up to 11 and that will be that for me.

Cheers,

Nick.

gazney101

iTrader: (5)

Shame:'(

gazney101

iTrader: (5)

Did this ever get sorted