Modding guides
13 May 2008, 07:40 PM
#1
Modding guides
As you all know, my Scoob is now off the road so this weekend will hopefully be the start of the mods.
Would anyone be interested in some guides?
Jobs planned:
Porting the turbo
Porting exhaust manifolds
Replacing lifter shims
Fitting knocklink style display
Fuel pressure regulator upgrade
DVD player with wireless bullet cam (with dashboard gauge pod modified to accept my Kenwood MP3 player so the motorised screen can go in the usual position.
Future jobs:
Twisted turbo conversion
Uprated oil pump / cam belt change
Turbo up pipe fitting
Suspension
Anti roll bars
droplinks
Antilift kit
Big brake conversion
Also got a few more ideas, but not sure if they are feasible, but should be finding out when I take the engine apart this weekend
Would anyone be interested in some guides?
Jobs planned:
Porting the turbo
Porting exhaust manifolds
Replacing lifter shims
Fitting knocklink style display
Fuel pressure regulator upgrade
DVD player with wireless bullet cam (with dashboard gauge pod modified to accept my Kenwood MP3 player so the motorised screen can go in the usual position.
Future jobs:
Twisted turbo conversion
Uprated oil pump / cam belt change
Turbo up pipe fitting
Suspension
Anti roll bars
droplinks
Antilift kit
Big brake conversion
Also got a few more ideas, but not sure if they are feasible, but should be finding out when I take the engine apart this weekend
13 May 2008, 08:58 PM
#5
Of course mate, got a gallon of good quality Miller's oil from ABW as he's now an authorised seller
, though won't be changing the oil until I've done the lifters.Thanks Tiny, the scoob came very close to being sold over the weekend, am very tempted with STI-CKI's car, but after a good think, have decided that I much prefer the facelift version now!!
As I've already done a 2.5 conversion, my plan is to take a 2 litre block and take it as far as I can, have taken aboard some good advice from Zak, Essexboy30 and Olly at Roger Clark Motorsports, so let the modding commence!
13 May 2008, 09:24 PM
#6
Reasons for Mods:
Porting the turbo - To allow as much air/gases through the TD04 turbo as I can as a temporary measure until I decide on which uprated turbo to get.
Porting the exhaust manifold - Same again, want to know how much of a difference having a standard manifold ported can make. Though may go for unequal length headers in the future as I don't want to lose the burble.
Twisted turbo conversion - Firstly is to keep the induction pipe as short as possible and secondly having the induction pipe run under the manifold won't help one little bit with heat, so should help with the engine getting nice cold air, also the said pipe is restrictive, not to mention keeping the pipe as straight as possible to help with air flow.
SimTek ECU - After talking to Zak on this, it allows for more accurate mapping and does away with the fragile MAF, not to mention the Anti Lag option
Uprated oil pump - It's not nice having an engine go bang on you because the pressure relief valve sticks, rather be safe than sorry, also an oil cooler will be fitted
Porting the turbo - To allow as much air/gases through the TD04 turbo as I can as a temporary measure until I decide on which uprated turbo to get.
Porting the exhaust manifold - Same again, want to know how much of a difference having a standard manifold ported can make. Though may go for unequal length headers in the future as I don't want to lose the burble.
Twisted turbo conversion - Firstly is to keep the induction pipe as short as possible and secondly having the induction pipe run under the manifold won't help one little bit with heat, so should help with the engine getting nice cold air, also the said pipe is restrictive, not to mention keeping the pipe as straight as possible to help with air flow.
SimTek ECU - After talking to Zak on this, it allows for more accurate mapping and does away with the fragile MAF, not to mention the Anti Lag option
Uprated oil pump - It's not nice having an engine go bang on you because the pressure relief valve sticks, rather be safe than sorry, also an oil cooler will be fitted
14 May 2008, 08:07 AM
#7
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selling it....keeping it.....selling it.....keeping it......
your like a foofin' woman!!! lol
good luck with the mods.....
baaa. baaa. on the simtek...!!! heheheh
your like a foofin' woman!!! lol
good luck with the mods.....
baaa. baaa. on the simtek...!!! heheheh
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14 May 2008, 10:17 AM
#9
Id be sure youre gonna keep it and do all of that stuff before you start writing huge lists like that, take it a bit at a time.
To take a 2ltr as far as it will go you gonna be looking at a minimum of 20K on the engine alone.
Propper heads will set you back about 3.5 grand.
14 May 2008, 11:57 AM
#11
PMSL i was thinking that.
Id be sure youre gonna keep it and do all of that stuff before you start writing huge lists like that, take it a bit at a time.
To take a 2ltr as far as it will go you gonna be looking at a minimum of 20K on the engine alone.
Propper heads will set you back about 3.5 grand.
Id be sure youre gonna keep it and do all of that stuff before you start writing huge lists like that, take it a bit at a time.
To take a 2ltr as far as it will go you gonna be looking at a minimum of 20K on the engine alone.
Propper heads will set you back about 3.5 grand.
Not everyone has deep pockets to buy the best of everything, I don't mean to sound like I'm having a dig but not everyone on here wants to run methanol/toulene mix fuel in their cars.
The point of this exercise is basically tuning on a budget. By that I don't mean that everything is going to be done the cheapest way, but am looking at the most effective methods that the average Scooby owner can have/use to boost performance.
'm not paying £3.5k on a par of heads, but the heads will be ported and polished by myself, with new lumpy cams.
Some things I won't be scrimping on are Cometic S/S head gaskets and ARP head studs, for obvious reasons.
14 May 2008, 01:01 PM
#15
Not everyone has deep pockets to buy the best of everything, I don't mean to sound like I'm having a dig but not everyone on here wants to run methanol/toulene mix fuel in their cars.
The point of this exercise is basically tuning on a budget. By that I don't mean that everything is going to be done the cheapest way, but am looking at the most effective methods that the average Scooby owner can have/use to boost performance.
'm not paying £3.5k on a par of heads, but the heads will be ported and polished by myself, with new lumpy cams.
Some things I won't be scrimping on are Cometic S/S head gaskets and ARP head studs, for obvious reasons.
The point of this exercise is basically tuning on a budget. By that I don't mean that everything is going to be done the cheapest way, but am looking at the most effective methods that the average Scooby owner can have/use to boost performance.
'm not paying £3.5k on a par of heads, but the heads will be ported and polished by myself, with new lumpy cams.
Some things I won't be scrimping on are Cometic S/S head gaskets and ARP head studs, for obvious reasons.
You have mentioned on a few threads now about taking the 2ltr as far as it will go... I was merely stating that if you really want to do that you'll need some serious cash.
Tuning on a budget does not generally include a rotated turbo setup either, rotated up and down pipes will set you back £800 alone, and is not cost effective on anything less than a GT30.
Even a GT30 can be stock located in some variations. You gotta be looking at a GT35 or similar. That then takes you into the relms of 550+bhp... that means an expensive gearbox/drivetrain solution. Clutch to take those levels are £1000+VAT. Not to metion a fuel system to suit etc.
The rotated pipes are something id want to make either. Surely buget tuning is getting agood quality stock location turbo and optimising everything else.
So step back and realise im not digging here... just letting you know what youre in for should you choose the biggest power route possible.
14 May 2008, 01:32 PM
#16
I do apologise, I'm getting ahead of myself
I wanted to gauge opinions first to see if anyone be interested with this. The above list is what I intend to do, but in 2 stages.
First phase is the "budget" tuning - Porting work, fuel pressure reg, uprated boost solenoid, and so on. The point of this exercise is a rough guide for people to show what's involved in basic tuning
Second phase - (Not exactly budget tuning) Buy a closed deck block, complete strip down and rebuild with race bearings, STI crank, forged pistons/conrods, twisted turbo conversion which I'll be doing myself and so on.
Sorry Frayz, I've contradicted myself on the last part, I know what I meant to say but it came out wrong
I wanted to gauge opinions first to see if anyone be interested with this. The above list is what I intend to do, but in 2 stages.First phase is the "budget" tuning - Porting work, fuel pressure reg, uprated boost solenoid, and so on. The point of this exercise is a rough guide for people to show what's involved in basic tuning
Second phase - (Not exactly budget tuning) Buy a closed deck block, complete strip down and rebuild with race bearings, STI crank, forged pistons/conrods, twisted turbo conversion which I'll be doing myself and so on.
Sorry Frayz, I've contradicted myself on the last part, I know what I meant to say but it came out wrong
14 May 2008, 10:03 PM
#17
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Good luck with it Paul, sounds like an interesting project mate 
I'd like to do something to my engine but a house has got to come first (thats what I told her anyway ).
Although by the time I get round to it, petrol will be £15 per litre and we will all be driving elastic powered go-karts
I'd like to do something to my engine but a house has got to come first (thats what I told her anyway ).Although by the time I get round to it, petrol will be £15 per litre and we will all be driving elastic powered go-karts
16 May 2008, 02:02 AM
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Will do mate Remember he is pretty good for advice if you need any and said on Sunday he will definately start looking for another classic soon. Also said the newages were fat, over weight and slow.................although I think that was aimed at my one
Remember he is pretty good for advice if you need any and said on Sunday he will definately start looking for another classic soon. Also said the newages were fat, over weight and slow.................although I think that was aimed at my one
16 May 2008, 07:35 AM
#20
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16 May 2008, 08:45 AM
#22
Good luck with your mods... get something up in the projects section!!
Any chance you might be doing photo guides for defi gauges set up as well?
Think I remember readng on a previous thread how an oil pump failed on your previous car. Defi's were showing signs of failure but something to do with 140mph (in Germany of course ) was the focus of your attention.
Any chance you might be doing photo guides for defi gauges set up as well?
Think I remember readng on a previous thread how an oil pump failed on your previous car. Defi's were showing signs of failure but something to do with 140mph
(in Germany of course ) was the focus of your attention.
16 May 2008, 02:02 PM
#23
Rossi - I do intend to put new gauges in the car, so will do a guide.
I can honestly say that I was doing 140mph in Germany, seen some Autogauge Stepmaster gauages that have a programmable alarm, so no need for gauge watching!! YAY!!
Ross, you're not wrong, phoned Ives up a few times when I was building the 2.5 engine, what he don't know about engines sn't worth knowing!!
I can honestly say that I was doing 140mph in Germany, seen some Autogauge Stepmaster gauages that have a programmable alarm, so no need for gauge watching!! YAY!!
Ross, you're not wrong, phoned Ives up a few times when I was building the 2.5 engine, what he don't know about engines sn't worth knowing!!
16 May 2008, 03:47 PM
#24
.In the same vain, I purchased a phormula knock sensor which has an audible warning (and it looks much nicer than the normal knocklink). Would fully recommend one on your build too!
Good luck!
16 May 2008, 04:52 PM
#26
and a record and replay feature Defi's are great but at downside of roughly £400 for 3 gauges and the control unit!
I put autogauges in my old scoob, and tested the oil and boost pressure gauges beforehand with a calibrated pressure gauge and found them to be pretty accurate, so I begrudge paying so much for Defi's
Defi's are great but at downside of roughly £400 for 3 gauges and the control unit!I put autogauges in my old scoob, and tested the oil and boost pressure gauges beforehand with a calibrated pressure gauge and found them to be pretty accurate, so I begrudge paying so much for Defi's
16 May 2008, 09:17 PM
#28
I love my Defi's, well worth the money imo.
The Autogauges might have been accurate, but without an audible alarm they didn't save your engine so the £400 for the Defi's looks quite reasonable now if it saves your engine blowing up!
The Autogauges might have been accurate, but without an audible alarm they didn't save your engine so the £400 for the Defi's looks quite reasonable now if it saves your engine blowing up!
16 May 2008, 10:35 PM
#30
lol, very good point Steve
My rebuild-
2.5 block - £1300
Cometic head gaskets - £125
ARP head studs - £125
Apexi ECU - £450
Greddy oil catch tank - £35
Roger Clark oil pump - £165
Full gasket kit - £300
Scooby Clinic timing belt - £75
No comparison to £400 for the Defi's
I can't say for sure if a set of Defi's would of prevented the engine going bang, but it would of brought the problem to my attention sooner, but it's a perfectly good reason to have them.
I did take tools out with me - set of spanners, socket set and so on, though wouldn't of rated my chances of getting parts in Germany. Though having said that - Ring Racing were pretty helpful, and spoke good English!!
Was pretty funny on the flight home when I tried to take the tools back as hand luggage, the scanners went crazy, and a VERY worried woman said "YOU CAN'T TAKE THAT AS HAND LUGGAGE, It's got to be stowed away" so had to pay an extra 20 Euros!