Lotus 7 Replica project
#1
Lotus 7 Replica project
For those of you that don't know me, I've had Imprezas since 2004 starting with a WRX V-Limited, then a UK 2000 Turbo and ending with a classic STI which I sold a year ago.
By trade, I'm a Mechanical Engineer - and have built a 2.5 engine and mildly ported and polished The cylinder heads, exhaust manifold and turbo exhaust inlet and outlet amongst other things.
Imprezas are great cars but after 8 years of ownership and now driving around in a sedate Citroen C5 - The performance itch has come back.
My brother and I will be building a Lotus 7 replica using a MX-5 as a doner car with the intention of mildy tuning the engine with a supercharger which will result in around 200BHP from a car weighing a shade over 1/2 a ton. So it should be entertaining to say the least especially as it's rear wheel drive.
If there's enough interest, I'll post a build diary here - if not I'll just post the diary on my website - www.taffy-racing.com
By trade, I'm a Mechanical Engineer - and have built a 2.5 engine and mildly ported and polished The cylinder heads, exhaust manifold and turbo exhaust inlet and outlet amongst other things.
Imprezas are great cars but after 8 years of ownership and now driving around in a sedate Citroen C5 - The performance itch has come back.
My brother and I will be building a Lotus 7 replica using a MX-5 as a doner car with the intention of mildy tuning the engine with a supercharger which will result in around 200BHP from a car weighing a shade over 1/2 a ton. So it should be entertaining to say the least especially as it's rear wheel drive.
If there's enough interest, I'll post a build diary here - if not I'll just post the diary on my website - www.taffy-racing.com
#5
Thanks guys!
LMAO @ Steve, I'm hanging it out mate.
Picked up a 8x4 sheet of 3/4 Ply lastnight to build the chassis jig, was fun and games trying to get it in the van along with the steel. Only just got it in.
Also I ordered some Foamex at work for signwriting, and it came on a rather nice 8x4 steel pallet. I "acquired" this to use as a nice flat base for the ply to ensure everything is as square as possible.
I haven't wired in lights in my garage yet, so am only limited to weekend work at the present - pics and updates to follow on
LMAO @ Steve, I'm hanging it out mate.
Picked up a 8x4 sheet of 3/4 Ply lastnight to build the chassis jig, was fun and games trying to get it in the van along with the steel. Only just got it in.
Also I ordered some Foamex at work for signwriting, and it came on a rather nice 8x4 steel pallet. I "acquired" this to use as a nice flat base for the ply to ensure everything is as square as possible.
I haven't wired in lights in my garage yet, so am only limited to weekend work at the present - pics and updates to follow on
#7
To give you an idea of what I'm building and build references:
As the main point of reference:
Legal point: Pictures are curtesy of www.haynes.co.uk
The above manual deals specifically with a Ford Sierra doner car but does include little guides on what's involved using Mazda MX-5 and E36 BMW 3 series.
As I have found out, the MX-5 doner needs a little more work on the chassis, namely the transmission tunnel, rear diff carrier and suspension but have found a handy guide for these mods here:
http://www.gillhamonline.co.uk/
Needless to say - more to come!
As the main point of reference:
Legal point: Pictures are curtesy of www.haynes.co.uk
The above manual deals specifically with a Ford Sierra doner car but does include little guides on what's involved using Mazda MX-5 and E36 BMW 3 series.
As I have found out, the MX-5 doner needs a little more work on the chassis, namely the transmission tunnel, rear diff carrier and suspension but have found a handy guide for these mods here:
http://www.gillhamonline.co.uk/
Needless to say - more to come!
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#8
A weekend fun machine
i'll look forward to your project thread
Just to ask .... as i have no knowledge of these
Has anyone built one with scoob engine / gearbox and RWD only
i'll look forward to your project thread
Just to ask .... as i have no knowledge of these
Has anyone built one with scoob engine / gearbox and RWD only
#9
I just worked out the sums and the boxer engine won't fit. The engine will stick out the sides of the engine bay (by around 110mmeither side at the front) and will interfere with the front suspension so won't pass an IVA test (Basically a thorough examination by VOSA to ensure the car is safe for the road).
The only way round this is to build a wider engine bay but IMO you will lose the proportions of the Lotus 7.
To put a little perspective on the car - the nose cone is only 478mm wide.
The only way round this is to build a wider engine bay but IMO you will lose the proportions of the Lotus 7.
To put a little perspective on the car - the nose cone is only 478mm wide.
Last edited by Cornelius; 05 February 2013 at 10:52 PM.
#11
The steel plinth to keep the chassis nice and square:
A sheet of 18mm Ply ready for the start of making the jig:
And the outside edges of the chassis marked up:
Poxy weather has stopped play as I don't fancy using a cold cut saw outside or moving the ply out there either!
Not as much as I wanted to get done this weekend, but at least it's started.
A sheet of 18mm Ply ready for the start of making the jig:
And the outside edges of the chassis marked up:
Poxy weather has stopped play as I don't fancy using a cold cut saw outside or moving the ply out there either!
Not as much as I wanted to get done this weekend, but at least it's started.
#14
Good luck with the project.
I built a Dutton Phaeton S3 (very, very cheap and bad Lotus 7 style replica) when I was 17 (25 years ago) - learnt shed loads thanks to it (mainly "never again") but 1600 X-flow with Kent Cams and Weber DCOEs rear wheel drive and weighing about the same as a Skateboard = excellent fun.
I remember that I used to be able to change the clutch cable complete in under 5 mins until I eventually took the time to redesign the routing, lol
Piccy of mine (ignore the dodgy hairstyle)...
I built a Dutton Phaeton S3 (very, very cheap and bad Lotus 7 style replica) when I was 17 (25 years ago) - learnt shed loads thanks to it (mainly "never again") but 1600 X-flow with Kent Cams and Weber DCOEs rear wheel drive and weighing about the same as a Skateboard = excellent fun.
I remember that I used to be able to change the clutch cable complete in under 5 mins until I eventually took the time to redesign the routing, lol
Piccy of mine (ignore the dodgy hairstyle)...
#17
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
Good luck with the project.
It'll no doubt be very rewarding.
I chopped my Se7en in 18 months ago for my Impreza.
Quite a different drive!
I miss the instant-ness of the response and the barking & spitting carbs but, now I get to drive & have fun in deepest winter as well as summer...!
It'll no doubt be very rewarding.
I chopped my Se7en in 18 months ago for my Impreza.
Quite a different drive!
I miss the instant-ness of the response and the barking & spitting carbs but, now I get to drive & have fun in deepest winter as well as summer...!
#18
Bit more done today!
First up - finishing off the chassis jig by screwing on the rail guides:
Getting exciting now, first part of the chassis cut - this is the rear part of the cockpit where the seats will eventually go. In the Haynes manual, the rails are open ended - I didn't like this idea as it looks like a "Can't be bothered" finish, so I have cut the corners in at 45 degrees to seal the section up.
The rest of the bottom chassis rails now cut. I've cut them around 0.5mm longer so they can be finished off with a file to ensure a perfect fit.
First up - finishing off the chassis jig by screwing on the rail guides:
Getting exciting now, first part of the chassis cut - this is the rear part of the cockpit where the seats will eventually go. In the Haynes manual, the rails are open ended - I didn't like this idea as it looks like a "Can't be bothered" finish, so I have cut the corners in at 45 degrees to seal the section up.
The rest of the bottom chassis rails now cut. I've cut them around 0.5mm longer so they can be finished off with a file to ensure a perfect fit.
#19
The steelwork has been cut to length using a cold-cut saw rather than a 300mm chop saw to reduce the risk of fatigue and stop potential weak spots.
Have to say, I enjoy my job working with refrigeration equipment, but by god - do I miss proper engineering fabrication!!
Have to say, I enjoy my job working with refrigeration equipment, but by god - do I miss proper engineering fabrication!!
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