802 to 801 ecu
#2
yes you will get a good gain.I changed from a MY00 802 ECU,to a MY99 800 ECU and the car pulls much better.I used to have a flat spot at 4500rpm,the earlier ECU got rid of this.off boost the car feels stronger and boost control is held smoother although I do get higher peaks on cold days than I ever with the MY00 ECU.
#3
@T-UK when u say boost control is smoother what do u mean? ive been feeling a kinda hesitation between 100mph and 120mph (on track) which ive assumed was some sort of overboost could i be confusing bad boost control with this? its not a brickwall effect and the car does keep pulling...
Cheers
Fergal
ps: doesnt seem to happen in lower gears ie: WOT in 1,2 & 3
Cheers
Fergal
ps: doesnt seem to happen in lower gears ie: WOT in 1,2 & 3
#4
overboost is not the brickwall affect that the earier cars have,so do not rule this out.do you have a boost guage,if so what values are you seeing?.before the main boost cut,the solenoid can open to bring the boost down a bit,this is a very smooth oscillation up and down until it holds a level it's happy with.
my held boost with the earlier ECU is much better controlled than with my MY00 ECU.with the MY00 ECU I would usually peak at 15psi,drop to 13psi for a while,then it would go to 14/15psi for a short time then back to 13 before tailing off.the MY99 ECU peaks at 15psi,then holds 14psi right through until it starts to tail off,on cold days I have seen this peak higher though but a Dawes cured all that .
better boost control is only part of the story,off boost the car is much stronger.I do not know if it is better timing or fuelling from 2000rpm.the car is better through the whole rev range and the difference at 4500rpm was huge.
my held boost with the earlier ECU is much better controlled than with my MY00 ECU.with the MY00 ECU I would usually peak at 15psi,drop to 13psi for a while,then it would go to 14/15psi for a short time then back to 13 before tailing off.the MY99 ECU peaks at 15psi,then holds 14psi right through until it starts to tail off,on cold days I have seen this peak higher though but a Dawes cured all that .
better boost control is only part of the story,off boost the car is much stronger.I do not know if it is better timing or fuelling from 2000rpm.the car is better through the whole rev range and the difference at 4500rpm was huge.
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
T-uk,
Do you have any other mods? I'm getting an 801 ECU fitted tomorrow.
With my802 ECU I see 13 PSI peak with about 11 held (occasionally have seen peak at 15 in 5th). Just curious about boost levels as I didn't think that I'd see an increase just different fuelling/mapping.
The only judge I'll be using for the difference between 802 and 801 is the feel through the seat of my pants.
Ta,
Doofus.
Oh my only other mod is a Scoobysport backbox
Do you have any other mods? I'm getting an 801 ECU fitted tomorrow.
With my802 ECU I see 13 PSI peak with about 11 held (occasionally have seen peak at 15 in 5th). Just curious about boost levels as I didn't think that I'd see an increase just different fuelling/mapping.
The only judge I'll be using for the difference between 802 and 801 is the feel through the seat of my pants.
Ta,
Doofus.
Oh my only other mod is a Scoobysport backbox
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#14
Nowucme
Like you I had a TSL backbox on MY00, but also an ITG filter as my only mods. Then came an 801 in place of 802. Enormous difference above 3000rpm, clean pull all the way to red line and car "feels" more eager from pick up at all revs. The real noticeable difference is only above 3000rpm however, where I am in a different car. I understand a TEK2 will give great gains at lower revs, but have not experienced this personally.
Like you I had a TSL backbox on MY00, but also an ITG filter as my only mods. Then came an 801 in place of 802. Enormous difference above 3000rpm, clean pull all the way to red line and car "feels" more eager from pick up at all revs. The real noticeable difference is only above 3000rpm however, where I am in a different car. I understand a TEK2 will give great gains at lower revs, but have not experienced this personally.
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Just to say thanks to John for swapping my 802 ECU for an 801 ECU yesterday. Pity neither of us had more time as I'd like to have had a wee blast in the silver monster sitting up your drive
Anyhow, in case anybody is wondering I had my 802 green ECU swapped for a 801 brown ECU from an MY99.
First of all let me say that I never thought I had a 'bad' MY00. It seemed to have a slight hesitation at around 2.7-2.9 K revs and a slight reluctance to rev past 5.5K through to redline .. but apart from that it seemed quick enough.
Now I have an 801 ECU installed. The hesitation from 2.7-2.9K has most definitely gone. I have not had much chance to test it but I would say it has also cured the 5.5K through to redline resistance. The motor seems to rev easier/cleaner and with less relutance.
Probably the biggest surprise is the engine's characteristics pootling around in traffic on/off boost. The turbo seems far more eager to come on song. Looking back subjectively, the 802 ECU seemed to take much longer to spool up, almost as through it was dragging itself up to full boost. The 801 ECU it seems as though boost is always there when you press the right pedal.
Flat out with WOT through the gears I would say that the 801 ECU has the legs on the 802. Don't expect a massive increase in BHP/torque but I would say the comparison here is correct.
Probably John with the maps for fuelling/ignition etc could explain these characteristics more scientifically.
Well worth it .. woudl recommend this for any MY00 owners out there .. now to start saving for the TEk3
Doofus.
Edited to fix link.
[Edited by Doofus - 5/31/2002 9:45:55 AM]
Anyhow, in case anybody is wondering I had my 802 green ECU swapped for a 801 brown ECU from an MY99.
First of all let me say that I never thought I had a 'bad' MY00. It seemed to have a slight hesitation at around 2.7-2.9 K revs and a slight reluctance to rev past 5.5K through to redline .. but apart from that it seemed quick enough.
Now I have an 801 ECU installed. The hesitation from 2.7-2.9K has most definitely gone. I have not had much chance to test it but I would say it has also cured the 5.5K through to redline resistance. The motor seems to rev easier/cleaner and with less relutance.
Probably the biggest surprise is the engine's characteristics pootling around in traffic on/off boost. The turbo seems far more eager to come on song. Looking back subjectively, the 802 ECU seemed to take much longer to spool up, almost as through it was dragging itself up to full boost. The 801 ECU it seems as though boost is always there when you press the right pedal.
Flat out with WOT through the gears I would say that the 801 ECU has the legs on the 802. Don't expect a massive increase in BHP/torque but I would say the comparison here is correct.
Probably John with the maps for fuelling/ignition etc could explain these characteristics more scientifically.
Well worth it .. woudl recommend this for any MY00 owners out there .. now to start saving for the TEk3
Doofus.
Edited to fix link.
[Edited by Doofus - 5/31/2002 9:45:55 AM]
#16
Hi, I have a green lable Y 800 ecu in my00. Dynoed at scooby clinic after there fitted a gearbox. Got 212.9 bhp 249 torque. I have tsl back box and scooby clinic center no cat. Manual boost controller set at 1 bar.
The thing is i was not happy will 212.9. When i got in the car the time was wrong, meaning there disconnected the battery meaning ecu re-set not good waste of £70.
Can any body shed any light on my ecu car feels good all the time used 2 maffs in 18months.
Want to upgrade to ppp ecu and lose the boost controller.
Also would like 260-270ish bhp any info on modes would be good thats if i dont get the ppp ecu.
The thing is i was not happy will 212.9. When i got in the car the time was wrong, meaning there disconnected the battery meaning ecu re-set not good waste of £70.
Can any body shed any light on my ecu car feels good all the time used 2 maffs in 18months.
Want to upgrade to ppp ecu and lose the boost controller.
Also would like 260-270ish bhp any info on modes would be good thats if i dont get the ppp ecu.
#17
Hi, I have a green lable Y 800 ecu in my00. Dynoed at scooby clinic after there fitted a gearbox. Got 212.9 bhp 249 torque. I have tsl back box and scooby clinic center no cat. Manual boost controller set at 1 bar.
The thing is i was not happy will 212.9. When i got in the car the time was wrong, meaning there disconnected the battery meaning ecu re-set not good waste of £70.
Can any body shed any light on my ecu car feels good all the time used 2 maffs in 18months.
Want to upgrade to ppp ecu and lose the boost controller.
Also would like 260-270ish bhp any info on modes would be good thats if i dont get the ppp ecu.
The thing is i was not happy will 212.9. When i got in the car the time was wrong, meaning there disconnected the battery meaning ecu re-set not good waste of £70.
Can any body shed any light on my ecu car feels good all the time used 2 maffs in 18months.
Want to upgrade to ppp ecu and lose the boost controller.
Also would like 260-270ish bhp any info on modes would be good thats if i dont get the ppp ecu.
#18
Hi, I have a green lable Y 800 ecu in my00. Dynoed at scooby clinic after there fitted a gearbox. Got 212.9 bhp 249 torque. I have tsl back box and scooby clinic center no cat. Manual boost controller set at 1 bar.
The thing is i was not happy will 212.9. When i got in the car the time was wrong, meaning there disconnected the battery meaning ecu re-set not good waste of £70.
Can any body shed any light on my ecu car feels good all the time used 2 maffs in 18months.
Want to upgrade to ppp ecu and lose the boost controller.
Also would like 260-270ish bhp any info on modes would be good thats if i dont get the ppp ecu.
The thing is i was not happy will 212.9. When i got in the car the time was wrong, meaning there disconnected the battery meaning ecu re-set not good waste of £70.
Can any body shed any light on my ecu car feels good all the time used 2 maffs in 18months.
Want to upgrade to ppp ecu and lose the boost controller.
Also would like 260-270ish bhp any info on modes would be good thats if i dont get the ppp ecu.
When the battery is disconnected nothing is lost, it just puts the ECU back to factory default, so knock correction has to be re-learnt, and then the ecu starts a learning process.
To get the best out of your set-up you would need a full re-map and get rid of the manual boost controller.
The PPP runs at 1.1 Bar, you could turn up the boost to 1.1 bar, but I would suggest you monitor DET if you do this.
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