Some thoughts please...she's just not right..
#1
Some thoughts please...she's just not right..
My 01Bug is not as it should be.
Its a WRX with the usual mods and a TD05, mapped by Andy Forrest.
For a few months I occasionally get a lean mixture bank one CEL, almost always on light (cruising) throttle.
I spoke with AF and he said the only things that go wrong with them are plugs and the neutral pos' switch.
Mine has a 6 speed and I checked the switch - its fine.
A few weeks ago I got a stutter/hesitation when 60-80% foot down at around 4500 to 5500rpm; 100% throttle was almost perfect and would pull more smoothly. But still not pulling as it should.
I found a cracked vacuum pipe just to the left of the alternator - I think its part of the PCV system. Replaced it, cleaned the MAF, changed / re-gapped the plugs 0.7 - and looked over the hoses.
I left the battery dissed for about 2hrs and went for a run, a lot smoother, good pull right through the range, but no push in the back at 3500 like a TD05 should.
So far no engine warning lights on.
I am getting full boost on the gauge and it seems to be stable.
I have searched through many posts on this but most of the similar threads dont show any final solutions.
Some help please.
Its a WRX with the usual mods and a TD05, mapped by Andy Forrest.
For a few months I occasionally get a lean mixture bank one CEL, almost always on light (cruising) throttle.
I spoke with AF and he said the only things that go wrong with them are plugs and the neutral pos' switch.
Mine has a 6 speed and I checked the switch - its fine.
A few weeks ago I got a stutter/hesitation when 60-80% foot down at around 4500 to 5500rpm; 100% throttle was almost perfect and would pull more smoothly. But still not pulling as it should.
I found a cracked vacuum pipe just to the left of the alternator - I think its part of the PCV system. Replaced it, cleaned the MAF, changed / re-gapped the plugs 0.7 - and looked over the hoses.
I left the battery dissed for about 2hrs and went for a run, a lot smoother, good pull right through the range, but no push in the back at 3500 like a TD05 should.
So far no engine warning lights on.
I am getting full boost on the gauge and it seems to be stable.
I have searched through many posts on this but most of the similar threads dont show any final solutions.
Some help please.
Last edited by wrxyz; 18 August 2014 at 11:47 AM.
#6
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#10
Aye, I did have a nervous laugh to myself, I had already looked at his post.
None the less I just checked, at idle you can just feel air moving, very little and no visible smoke or fumes or deposits on the oil cap.
I also cleaned out the EGR/PCV black bit
None the less I just checked, at idle you can just feel air moving, very little and no visible smoke or fumes or deposits on the oil cap.
I also cleaned out the EGR/PCV black bit
#11
I also disconnected the MAF whilst it was idling, it gave a wee stutter and then resumed a steady idle.
I have read conflicting reports as to whether it should stall/die when the MAF is disconnected, can anyone confirm what should happen?
I have read conflicting reports as to whether it should stall/die when the MAF is disconnected, can anyone confirm what should happen?
#12
im a bit confused to your problem?
are you saying everything is ok except it doesn't feel as quick as before?
from what im reading you had a few problems a couple of weeks ago but now everything is ok and your getting full boost reading, but doesn't feel that fast?
how long since your map?
is it showing anything on the code reader?
is the car catless?
are you saying everything is ok except it doesn't feel as quick as before?
from what im reading you had a few problems a couple of weeks ago but now everything is ok and your getting full boost reading, but doesn't feel that fast?
how long since your map?
is it showing anything on the code reader?
is the car catless?
Last edited by XDevil666; 18 August 2014 at 04:57 PM.
#15
im a bit confused to your problem?
are you saying everything is ok except it doesn't feel as quick as before?
from what im reading you had a few problems a couple of weeks ago but now everything is ok and your getting full boost reading, but doesn't feel that fast?
how long since your map?
is it showing anything on the code reader?
is the car catless?
are you saying everything is ok except it doesn't feel as quick as before?
from what im reading you had a few problems a couple of weeks ago but now everything is ok and your getting full boost reading, but doesn't feel that fast?
how long since your map?
is it showing anything on the code reader?
is the car catless?
I did have a couple of problems but they seem to have been solved as detailed above.
It was mapped about 20months ago.
The code reader is now showing nothing.
The car has a Prodrive sportcat.
The performance changed just a few weeks ago, when the hesitation started. The hesitation was caused by the air leak in the EGR system, and it looks like this could have been the cause of the engine light coming on for the past months - the leak slowly getting worse.
So now the pull is smooth right up to about 6200; where there is just a slight hiccup.
In fact its not a hesitation, I think its actually a sharp increase in power - to what it should be - just for a split second.
I dont know if that makes more or less sense to anyone.
Any further thoughts from anyone on the Maf disconnect?
Thanks for the help so far
#16
I was under the impression that disconnecting the power for a few hours was required for the re-learn process to take place - as being different to the reset process.
#17
I havent, although I had thought about it but, I didnt think that the Torque app sample rate was fast enough to give any meaningfull results.
If there is a better way (apart from getting a mapper to do it)?
Let me know and I will get on it.
Thanks for the suggestion.
If there is a better way (apart from getting a mapper to do it)?
Let me know and I will get on it.
Thanks for the suggestion.
#19
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