gary77

iTrader: (1)

It's a scary prospect but how difficult can it actually be

ross_jsy

Not done one on an Impreza (but plan to on mine) but have done them on many other cars. Nothing particularly scary about it, just take your time and rotate the engine a few times and make sure the marks still line up.

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

If you've done a double overhead cam engine before which doesn't have any form of locking tools/mechanism, then you'll be fine. Its just a case of taking your time, double checking and rechecking.


I say double overhead cam, as the scoob is a quad cam and when removing the belt without any form of locking tool, the cams on the nearside bank will always spin round so will have to be reset and held in place whilst the new belt is fitted. Thats the only tricky bit, except fot the tight crank pulley bolt (3ft long breaker bar).

staaf

iTrader: (1)

it's not so bad, tak out the radiator, and you'll have plenty of space to see how everything is sitting.
First time it took me about 2.5 hours to finish it.

gary77

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the replies ,It's staring to sound less scary ,I think I'm going to do this

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

Good luck, i would have ago but not got the bottle, going to fit mine with my local mechanic

WRX_Wagon

iTrader: (1)

It's not too bad if you're methodical and take your time. Just a brit tricky as mentioned with having to lock/rotate the cams as you fit the new belt.
I did mine in January, replaceed all the rollers/idlers, water pump, thermostat and also pulled the oil pump and checked the pump bolts had not come loose (replaced the crank seal as well). Threebond sealant should be used for the oil pump to block interface as specified. It is not that cheap, but not worth risking problems if you decide not to use it.
The crank pulley bolt can be a pain, I used a long prybar with two short extensions sticking out the front of the pulley to react the torque of loosening the bolt. I used the same method for tightening, and was careful in both directions to "pre load" it all rather than just heave and something slips or breaks.
The single biggest problem i had was putting the intercooler back on with the hard plastic pipe not having any give. Hour and a half of swearing later and it was sorted.
Hope this helps, not a definitive guide but based on my experience.

gary77

iTrader: (1)

When it gets nearer the time i'll have a few questions so I know exactly what I'm going ,

jameswrx

iTrader: (4)

You should lock the n/s cam pulleys together before taking the belt off. I wouldn't do this any other way. As Ali mentions, they are 'on cam' when you've got all the timing marks lined up.

I've done a fair few different imprezas for customers, friends and many of my own.

Here's a few problems you may encounter, just so you know...

Crank pulley ridiculously tight (make sure you have the tools)
Radiator shroud bolts corroded (also had the captive nuts shear off so you need to remove the rad top cover to get to them)
Cam cover bolts not coming off, these can seize in their respective captive nut in the rear cam covers and when undoing can spin the captive nut in the rear of the cam cover

I've done them and had plain sailing and you think they're a breeze but I did a classic the other day and it'd clearly not been done for many years. Every step of the way it fought me and if you haven't got the tools or the confidence to see the job through then I'd think very carefully.

Davec30

iTrader: (2)

This is a good watch

DJB3

You'll need to decide what you're going to replace. Some just replace the belt and that's probably ok if the first time the belt's been changed. Otherwise you're probably best to replace tensioner and/or idlers as well. Apparently if you spin an idler or shake it, it should be silent. I understand that a failed idler or tensioner is more likely than a snapped belt. ICP sell a set for around £170 so unless you're really cutting corners, best to replace everything at once. Some do water pump as well but that's another £100.

gary77

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the great info , im definatly doing this

i need a torque wrench , opinions on this one ? it is cheap but good enough for the job ?

jameswrx

iTrader: (4)

Halfords do excellent ones, they look like they're made by Beta to me.

DJB3

For torque wrench, you'll really need a high range (1/2") for the bigger nuts and bolts and a low range (3/8 or 1/4") for the small stuff. I got this 1/4" off ebay and it's superb for the money:

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/271245806232...IDESC&gxo=true

Can really recommend the 1/2" wrench that I got since the gauge doesn't line up properly.

Strongly recommend that you get hold of the Subaru workshop manual (check the links on this site).