MY99 Impreza 2000 turbo flat spots under load.
#1
MY99 Impreza 2000 turbo flat spots under load.
Hi guys,
Bought a 2000 turbo wagon (1999) earlier this year and constantly trying to iron out issues.
The most recent one is a series of flat spots under max load (4th, 5th gear) when on full throttle. Its a bit like letting off the throttle - they are smooth not boost cut. It's not the generic dip between 4k and 5k as there are about 3 of them as the revs climb.
The car is completely stock and I have recently replaced the plugs, intercooler hoses and vacuum lines which have made the world of difference (was plagued with a stutter on boost).
I'm running out of ideas. No CEL lights. Everything seems to be in good order. It occasionally starts to idle a bit low but nothing too problematic and has never stalled. The maf has been replaced by a previous owner, but a few years ago.
Only thing to add is that it's running 1.1bar of boost instead of 0.8bar.
Could it be that it's potentially running lean on boost?
Any suggestions would be great!!!
Tom
Bought a 2000 turbo wagon (1999) earlier this year and constantly trying to iron out issues.
The most recent one is a series of flat spots under max load (4th, 5th gear) when on full throttle. Its a bit like letting off the throttle - they are smooth not boost cut. It's not the generic dip between 4k and 5k as there are about 3 of them as the revs climb.
The car is completely stock and I have recently replaced the plugs, intercooler hoses and vacuum lines which have made the world of difference (was plagued with a stutter on boost).
I'm running out of ideas. No CEL lights. Everything seems to be in good order. It occasionally starts to idle a bit low but nothing too problematic and has never stalled. The maf has been replaced by a previous owner, but a few years ago.
Only thing to add is that it's running 1.1bar of boost instead of 0.8bar.
Could it be that it's potentially running lean on boost?
Any suggestions would be great!!!
Tom
#2
I suppose there's a possibility that it's pulling the timing back slightly to avoid det but these things run really rich as standard so should be ok. How old is the fuel pump, plugs etc?
#3
Have no idea the age of the fuel pump - was considering replacing but I took the inlet pipe off the filter and it's priming and fuelling well.
Plugs are 100 miles old. The old ones weren't a matching set and were degrading under load.
Fresh out of ideas really.
#5
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...limp-mode.html
Second hand good coil pack fixed my problem!!(£5 from ebay!!)
Second hand good coil pack fixed my problem!!(£5 from ebay!!)
#6
They are gapped at 0.7mm which seems fine. There aren't any losses in power in other gears and no misfiring so I believe all is well there.
As for maf - could be degrading slowly? I have only been able to try one that was broken so wasn't much help. I don't want to swap parts for the sake of it either!!
As for maf - could be degrading slowly? I have only been able to try one that was broken so wasn't much help. I don't want to swap parts for the sake of it either!!
Last edited by bennett_tom; 12 November 2014 at 11:39 AM.
#7
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...limp-mode.html
Second hand good coil pack fixed my problem!!(£5 from ebay!!)
Second hand good coil pack fixed my problem!!(£5 from ebay!!)
Trending Topics
#9
Sorry under light load it is running stoichiometric. All lambda values are where they need to be when under load so its not a AFR problem i don't believe.
Need to put the band sensor back on now it is at 1.1 bar but im not convinced it will be ratios.
Need to put the band sensor back on now it is at 1.1 bar but im not convinced it will be ratios.
#13
#14
I have no idea. I'll have to recheck invoices and I'll have a look under the bonnet later. Do mafs degrade slowly like this and cause problems? I've taken it off and sprayed some cleaner in there but it was spotless before I did that.
#15
Awesome. I may take you up on that. I'm in Oxford for the next few weeks but if I'm in Gloucester for a weekend I'll message you beforehand!! Thanks very much!!
#16
#17
#18
#19
Yeah you are correct so does mine. There wasn't any difference between the two fuels but I think I'll run it on super from now on to keep it a happier.
#20
Probably for the best mate. Especially if you're running raised boost on a standard map. I assume you've got some kind of boost controller fitted?
#21
This problem hasn't occurred due to more boost though. I've been slowly diagnosing and clearing issues and the flat spots are a mystery.
#22
Yes I think you're correct with the fuel. Actually I'm running a restrictor pill off a VF28 turbo which is a smaller diameter. Giving me 1.1bar rather than 0.8/0.9bar.
This problem hasn't occurred due to more boost though. I've been slowly diagnosing and clearing issues and the flat spots are a mystery.
This problem hasn't occurred due to more boost though. I've been slowly diagnosing and clearing issues and the flat spots are a mystery.
#23
I personally wouldn't bother with a boost controller as such. There was a Turbosmart manual controller on mine when I got it but then I came across a cheap Blitz dual SBC and fitted that in its place. It actually gave me the best and most stable boost I've ever had. I since fitted ESL and am now using the Subaru system again. It's more complicated to set up but I'm guessing it's the best job for the car. Raising the boost without checking the timing and AFR is just asking for trouble. The only thing that saves us is that the cars run really rich from the factory.
think you'd benefit from some data logging like boost, AFR, timing etc. Is your car OBD2?
think you'd benefit from some data logging like boost, AFR, timing etc. Is your car OBD2?
#24
Not obdII unfortunately.
MY99-00 uk cars have a reputation for eating mafs. Some owners treat it as a service item and replace it every year. Also, I can't imagine 1.1bar boost is good for it with the standard map and exhaust, how about trying the correct restrictor pill?
MY99-00 uk cars have a reputation for eating mafs. Some owners treat it as a service item and replace it every year. Also, I can't imagine 1.1bar boost is good for it with the standard map and exhaust, how about trying the correct restrictor pill?
#25
I personally wouldn't bother with a boost controller as such. There was a Turbosmart manual controller on mine when I got it but then I came across a cheap Blitz dual SBC and fitted that in its place. It actually gave me the best and most stable boost I've ever had. I since fitted ESL and am now using the Subaru system again. It's more complicated to set up but I'm guessing it's the best job for the car. Raising the boost without checking the timing and AFR is just asking for trouble. The only thing that saves us is that the cars run really rich from the factory.
think you'd benefit from some data logging like boost, AFR, timing etc. Is your car OBD2?
think you'd benefit from some data logging like boost, AFR, timing etc. Is your car OBD2?
Tom
#26
Not obdII unfortunately.
MY99-00 uk cars have a reputation for eating mafs. Some owners treat it as a service item and replace it every year. Also, I can't imagine 1.1bar boost is good for it with the standard map and exhaust, how about trying the correct restrictor pill?
MY99-00 uk cars have a reputation for eating mafs. Some owners treat it as a service item and replace it every year. Also, I can't imagine 1.1bar boost is good for it with the standard map and exhaust, how about trying the correct restrictor pill?
I'll do some logging and update everyone on the progress!!
But yes, MAF could be degrading but no way of telling. No CEL and engine cuts when disconnecting. Data logging may reveal!
#28
UPDATE:
It misfired again and the flat spots still remain. I now have a boost gauge and I have similar problems to this man here:
When full throttle, the boost fluctuates about half a bar (not fuel cut). Its gradual and the car continues to build rpm.
It wont be a boost leak - I have brand new intercooler hoses and I secured all vacuum lines again at the weekend so I'm certain I have no problems there.
Since owning it the CEL has intermittently come on and off. I cleared the ECU (few months ago) and it recently illuminated again. Code 22 - Knock sensor.
Forums suggest this isn't because it is knocking but rather the sensor is buggered. I will take it off to inspect as they are susceptible to cracking.
Furthermore, I have a replacement MAF inbound as its a few years old and a lot of the low idling problems and boost problems can occur from a failing one, so im swapping it out for a piece of mind.
Does anyone have any of these symptoms and codes and can pinpoint what it is exactly?
Many thanks guys. Sorry about the slow progress, I will be able to do with spare time over Christmas.
Tom
It misfired again and the flat spots still remain. I now have a boost gauge and I have similar problems to this man here:
When full throttle, the boost fluctuates about half a bar (not fuel cut). Its gradual and the car continues to build rpm.
It wont be a boost leak - I have brand new intercooler hoses and I secured all vacuum lines again at the weekend so I'm certain I have no problems there.
Since owning it the CEL has intermittently come on and off. I cleared the ECU (few months ago) and it recently illuminated again. Code 22 - Knock sensor.
Forums suggest this isn't because it is knocking but rather the sensor is buggered. I will take it off to inspect as they are susceptible to cracking.
Furthermore, I have a replacement MAF inbound as its a few years old and a lot of the low idling problems and boost problems can occur from a failing one, so im swapping it out for a piece of mind.
Does anyone have any of these symptoms and codes and can pinpoint what it is exactly?
Many thanks guys. Sorry about the slow progress, I will be able to do with spare time over Christmas.
Tom
#30
Are you sure its a standard car, an easy upgrade was to fit the PPP ecu this would give you 1.1bar, if you have removed the center cat, your boost could be rising to quickly, once it spikes it gets pulled back, try building the car up slowly, don't floor it and see how it reacts, the boost control solenoid could case this problem.
To see if the Ecu has been changed, lift the carpet in the passenger footwell and remove the cover plate, it should have a pink sticker if its PPP, otherwise it should be a 801 or 800 series dependent on month.
To see if the Ecu has been changed, lift the carpet in the passenger footwell and remove the cover plate, it should have a pink sticker if its PPP, otherwise it should be a 801 or 800 series dependent on month.