Hi Guys, I am looking to install a boost gauge on the pillar of my 2003 sti but I'm not sure where to wire it up.
Are there any diagrams or anyone that can explain in a bit of detail (I'm a bit of an electrical dumbass) on how to do it?
Thanks, Dave.

 

I can't really advise beyond this, but I removed a boost gague that was in one of the centre vents from my 2003 wagon and the lighting for the gauge was tapped from the clock:



Can't say if this the best way to run it, but it appeared to work ok for as long as it took me to drive back from collecting the car

 

That's probably one of the easiest places to run it from. I'll take a look, thanks

 

Do it right though...the above is a right pig's ear.

The wiring on Scoobs uses the modern thinwall stuff, so the tap-in connectors need to be red, not blue.
Or better still, remove insulation, wrap wire round, solder and heatshrink.

 

Solder is the way forward. Those scotchlock things should be banned.

 

as above only way is to solder, if unsure use a meter to find switch pos,

 

Oh crap, this is gonna be harder than I thought lol
Anybody local to Winchester, Hampshire that can assist?

 

You will need a live and an earth for the lighting and a pipe to the inlet manifold for the boost pressure.
Live as described above.
Earth anywhere on the chassis

 

Two wires and a pipe?

 

Shouldn't take you more than half an hour dude, it's easy if you've got the basic tools to do it.

 

I'm pretty sure the gauge I have has more than 2 wires out the back. I will check tomorrow as its at the back of the shed.

 

Do you not have a wiring diagram?
Likely have daylight running and nighttime dimming, not needing to wire it up like that, just have it in nighttime dimming all the time.

 

There is a diagram of sorts but not all that clear to a noob like me, hence why I'm a little concerned about hashing it up!
So Boosted, would you recommend running wires to the clock or is there somewhere closer to the drivers pillar that would be better?

 

I picked up connections for my boost gauge at the instrument cluster. But, I have a lot of electronic test equipment to identify stuff, appropriate tools and also experience with soldering. Have you got anything like a simple multimeter and a soldering iron?

 

Wire it to the clock. Drop a peice of string down aswell as the boost gause wires. Then tie them togethher and pull the boost gause wires up. Then tap the live wire into the ignition wire for the clock (not constant live) the earth to the earth and the third one i wouldnt worry about.

 

The ignition you need to attach your live from the boost gauge is the yellow wire at the bottom of the clock harness.

The earth is the black wire two above it (seccond from top)

If you want to wire in the third dimmer wire its the pink wire above the ignition hope that helps

 

Keep the smoke in the wires

 

On the back of the clock on new ages right beside the clip it will tell you what wire is what

If your going to install a single gauge are you fitting it onto the a pillar or steering cowl?

Steve

 

Is one of the wires to the clock a constant live, if so which one? I guessed one of them might be (to keep the time) but haven't so far investigated properly as its far too cold outside

 

I'm glad this thread was started because I've just ordered one today so I'm fully tuned in on this. Haha

 

Simple for a boost gauge:


Behind the clock you will find this:




from top to bottom


BATTERY
GROUND
LIGHTS ON
IGNITION

 

It will come with a manual which tells you which wire to connect to which feed, use my picture above and it will be a walk in the park

 

Thanks very much mate, any idea the diameter of the wires so I know what size heat shrink tubes to buy.

 

One of these is useful if you don't have a meter: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-LIGHT-...item418dafabb7
It can be used to find a live, both permanent and switched.

As for soldering, so long as the wires to be joined are clean, it's simple.
here's a foolproof method:

Strip back an area of the wire to be joined to, about 10mm is fine. I do it using a Stanley type knife, shave along gently.
Now strip back about 15mm of the wire you want to join to it.
Twist the new wire round the one to be tapped into, making a neat join.
Now cut off about 10mm of solder wire and wrap that round the join.
Place soldering iron under the join in contact with solder. You will see it melt, wait until it flows., remove soldering iron and keep joint still until solder goes hard, (moving it too early is the main cause of "dry-soldered" joints which give poor results).

You can't really heatshrink it, unless your wire to be joined into has a free end. Best stuff to use is self-sealing tape, otherwise some electrician's tape is fine.

 

Or you can poke a hole threw the wire your tapping into.
Twist the wire from the boost gauge into a thin line then poke it therew the hole.

Then close the loop you made then twist the wire around.

Tape over it and imo is as strong as soldering this age old method

 

Wow, thanks guys, you have been a massive help. I think i'm gonna do it this weekend weather permitting. Would you say that the pipe by the dump valve or the inlet manifold would be the best place to attach the pipe to the gauge?

 

It'll work, but it's a poor man's connection. Mechanical only.

Always bear in mind that a poor connection results in high resistance, and that high resistance results in heat, and that heat can result in destroyed electrics or fire

 

Inlet, better reading and no cutting, just unplug the orange round disc get a small piece of tube conect to t peice and orange disc. These two go either side of the t piece.

Then the long peice of vacume hose goes from the bottom of your t.peice threw the fire wall and up the pillar!

No problem. There realy aint a good soild guide anyware online. Why you would cut into the vacume for the dumpvalve on the wrong side of the engine bay i dont know

 

Cool, thanks again, you've been a massive help

 

Dave did you manage to install it? I'm doing mine this weekend.