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TY856WN4KA 6 speed to replace type r 5 speed...info needed please!

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Old 12 February 2016 | 07:47 AM
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Default TY856WN4KA 6 speed to replace type r 5 speed...info needed please!

hi all

i currently have a v3 type r with around 330 bhp

im looking to up the power a bit in the future and for a bit mor reliability im dropping the 6 speed dccd TY856WN4KA box in

can anyone who has gone from similar to similar comment on what the ratios are like?

i do enjoy the acceleration of the type r box...is this something im going to lose in a big way?

car is mainly used on track so taller 4th 5th and 6th will be an advantage as i can be really on the limit on some long straights!

if you have first hand experience then please comment!

cheers
Old 12 February 2016 | 12:57 PM
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Anyone???
Old 12 February 2016 | 01:57 PM
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It's only longer 5-6th gears as its from a uk widetrack blob box.
I've fitted one in mine but not fully tested it yet
Old 12 February 2016 | 04:05 PM
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So the acceleration will not be effected then and il have the added bonus of being able to cruise more happily/higher speed on straights?

Bonus

Im throwing it in with my 5 speed fly and clutch so hopefully wont be to much drama

What plug does what to on the gearbox?

Which is dccd which is reverse and which is neutral lol

Cheers
Old 12 February 2016 | 04:16 PM
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I'm not comparing it to 5 speed ratios etc, but generally all 6 speeds are generally shorter ratio than 5 speed, just a few differences in which model they come from, like jdm is all short, U.K. Hawk are long 2-6 etc etc.

Who's fitting it? It's generally easy, nps switch and dccd, you may have to wire dccd up as not all plugs are same on car.
Old 12 February 2016 | 04:46 PM
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Im sure il work it out

I take it my cable drive speedo will fit in

Il be able to work out neutral and reverse switch woring i should think anyway!

Need to just make aure i have everything first and nothing is damaged!

The gear box uses male type shafts so i need to check if my standard type r ones are the same or if i need to swap the shafts to!

I think the rear diff is the same

I need a centre propagaft bearing aswell as the person who originally removed the stuff gas axed through the bearing (retards)

Or im gonna have to source a new prop!
Old 12 February 2016 | 04:57 PM
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All sensors should fit in, you'll just need to wire dccd, only 2 wires if plug different.
You will need 3.54 diff r180, propshaft too (I have an auto prop for sale).
You will need hub shaft conversion kit as your front shafts won't fit without the kit.
Depending if you have r180 rear set up (not sure what year on type r they had em fitted) then you'll need rear shaft set up too.
Old 12 February 2016 | 04:59 PM
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It should all fit front and rear as its already r180?

Shouldnt it?

Il know when i try lol
Old 12 February 2016 | 05:30 PM
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Ah I see, yes you will have the r180 set up.
But your diff will be 4.44 ratio and you need 3.54 for the box you fitting.
And you will need the stub shaft conversion kit as your front shafts won't fit into box
Old 12 February 2016 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by d.kenny
It should all fit front and rear as its already r180?

Shouldnt it?

Il know when i try lol
Conversion half shafts for the fronts. Id do a deal some cash my way and the seals out of yours?

https://www.scoobynet.com/subaru-parts-451/1034738-6-speed-parts.html

You will need the mounts etc too
Old 12 February 2016 | 05:48 PM
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Iv got 2 diffs both from wr1s to match the wr1 box

I have both sets of shafts

What are these conversion ones though?

I think id rather use my front shafts as the front corner was smashed and suffered suspension dzmage
Old 12 February 2016 | 05:52 PM
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The front shafts on your box will be female ended, the front shafts on the new box will be male ended from what I can gather.

So you will need the half shafts and seals from a non dccd 6spd to convert your box to female ended shafts if keeping your existing shafts.

I am going the other way and going for male ended shafts on my already female ended 6spd so want to swap.
Old 12 February 2016 | 05:59 PM
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Yes the dccd box is female so i will need some half shafts or to use the other front shafts that i have that match the box

Are the shafts different lengths or will they be good to use

How much do you want for your half shafts?

Or where do i get them from?

Just from a non dccd six speed you say?
Old 12 February 2016 | 06:02 PM
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half shafts will be sold with boxes so rarely come up separate.

The shafts may be different if its a widetrack I think? Dont quote me on that, ive not measured.

ICP do the half shafts for £125 apparently. Id take 70 for mine with the seals and you send me your seals from your box.


EDIT - not alot of information available on it really. I am trying to do a classic to newage 5x114 conversion and this is just what I have managed to figure out/research! There might be more until I bolt mine up im not sure! As I am not trying ot keep my existing classic running gear I will be using newage hubs, brakes, shafts, props, diffs etc....

Last edited by JGlanzaV; 12 February 2016 at 06:05 PM.
Old 12 February 2016 | 06:11 PM
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Wr1 is not widetrack is it?

When i take them out il just line up side by side and measure and if i need the stubs il do some sort of deal and just fit them in situ

Taking seals out my gearbox will probably end up in them being damaged though i think!
Old 12 February 2016 | 06:11 PM
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Surely its been done before without converting to stubs to????
Old 12 February 2016 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by d.kenny
Wr1 is not widetrack is it?

When i take them out il just line up side by side and measure and if i need the stubs il do some sort of deal and just fit them in situ

Taking seals out my gearbox will probably end up in them being damaged though i think!
The seals pop out easily, they are hard plastic.

I don't know much about specific models tbh, I just know what I need to do to mine lol! It's not as simple as that as the hubs need machining to suit the classic suspension etc, but Newage suspension won't bolt to classic mounting points lol.
Old 12 February 2016 | 06:33 PM
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You are confusing me

You are saying then that newage front shafts will not fit on a classic?

Or are you referring to what you need to do in order to fit newage running bear on yours?

I know the gearbox

Prop

Rear shafts and diff will bolt to what i have

My main issue is the front shafts

I have the complete running gear off both cars at my disposal

Both setups are 5x100 to that i have
Old 12 February 2016 | 07:16 PM
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Wr1 is not widetrack

I didn't use that box but used a 2004 non dccd box in my impreza v5 type r. I did find it slightly affected the acceleration, gearing helped with using it on longer journeys though. If it wasn't for the power though and the worry of breaking the 5 speed I'd have stayed as it was

Last edited by chrispy200+; 12 February 2016 at 07:17 PM.
Old 12 February 2016 | 07:42 PM
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The gearbox you have (WANKA box is its nick name lol) is a later widetrack blob box and the stub conversion is these
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/part...y=&searchPart=

I know, because I've don't the same conversion on same box in a v5 type r
Old 12 February 2016 | 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by d.kenny
Yes the dccd box is female so i will need some half shafts or to use the other front shafts that i have that match the box

Are the shafts different lengths or will they be good to use

How much do you want for your half shafts?

Or where do i get them from?

Just from a non dccd six speed you say?
Both your WANKA box and front shafts will be female, hence the stub kit to keep current front shaft, unless you change them.
Old 12 February 2016 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by d.kenny
You are confusing me

You are saying then that newage front shafts will not fit on a classic?

Or are you referring to what you need to do in order to fit newage running bear on yours?

I know the gearbox

Prop

Rear shafts and diff will bolt to what i have

My main issue is the front shafts

I have the complete running gear off both cars at my disposal

Both setups are 5x100 to that i have
Correct, you just need the stub kit to what I linked above, but make sure your diff is a 354 and you're good to go.
Old 12 February 2016 | 08:46 PM
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I have all the stuff from the same car so the diff is definitely the same

I dont understand why you are all saying to convert to a stub when i have the front shafts off the wr1 which if im not mistaken is definitely NOT widetrack???

And i thought the widertrack was only at the back anyway???
Old 12 February 2016 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by d.kenny
I have all the stuff from the same car so the diff is definitely the same

I dont understand why you are all saying to convert to a stub when i have the front shafts off the wr1 which if im not mistaken is definitely NOT widetrack???

And i thought the widertrack was only at the back anyway???
Spline counts also differ year to year..... so Newage shafts may not fit your hubs anyway
Old 12 February 2016 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by d.kenny
I have all the stuff from the same car so the diff is definitely the same

I dont understand why you are all saying to convert to a stub when i have the front shafts off the wr1 which if im not mistaken is definitely NOT widetrack???

And i thought the widertrack was only at the back anyway???
If you've got the whole car to remove them off then go for it.
I also stated, IF you want to leave your front shafts on then you need that stub kit, UNLESS you're changing them along with hubs if needed.
Just seems a lot of work when you can save it, but upto you.

That box Dccd is from a later blob, or in your case a wr1 as they had dccd but depends on year of wr1 it came from.
But code is pointing to widetrack blob as they never did dccd until widetrack but wr1 had dccd so same box.
1-4th short ratio and long 5-6th.

Is the diff you got come from wr1 too or are you planning on leaving your type r diff on?
Old 12 February 2016 | 09:24 PM
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If its from a wr1 that wasnt widetrack, so I assume the stub shafts were added on the blob widetrack box which came the following year. Cant say for certain until you test fit it to the car as I would assume everything should fit as it, without the need for stub shafts
Old 12 February 2016 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by d.kenny
Yes the dccd box is female so i will need some half shafts or to use the other front shafts that i have that match the box

Are the shafts different lengths or will they be good to use

How much do you want for your half shafts?

Or where do i get them from?

Just from a non dccd six speed you say?
Originally Posted by banny sti
If its from a wr1 that wasnt widetrack, so I assume the stub shafts were added on the blob widetrack box which came the following year. Cant say for certain until you test fit it to the car as I would assume everything should fit as it, without the need for stub shafts
He's said here the box is female
Old 12 February 2016 | 10:02 PM
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Box has no stubs

If the shafts fit then thats free so no need for stubs

If they dont then the stubs will prob be a better prospect as a pair of hubs (even though i have some but they are a bit worse for wear) will be more expensive i would imagine

I wont be fitting for a few weeks anyway as going to use car as it is next week then il 6 speed it for next mapping session along with new actuator

So to clarify on ratios

The 6 speed im replacing my type r 5 speed with will have similar acceleration but have a taller 5th and 6th which id say is a no brainer

I have the matching diff (2 in fact) both from wr1s

3.9 i think from what iv seen on the net

The wr1 diff should bolt in easily as my rear end is already r180...i know this because i snapped a shaft and replaced with some 6 speed ones

I cant see why the front sgafts wont fit unless the front hibs are different...which i doubt as they are still 5 x 100

I will confirm what is what when i have done it as it seems this will be the only way to know for sure!

Im sure even if hubs are different i could remove cv joints and make some hybrid shafts!

I know the rears can be dismantled as i have done it...sourcing joints on the other hand is a different matter!
Old 13 February 2016 | 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by d.kenny
Box has no stubs

If the shafts fit then thats free so no need for stubs

If they dont then the stubs will prob be a better prospect as a pair of hubs (even though i have some but they are a bit worse for wear) will be more expensive i would imagine

I wont be fitting for a few weeks anyway as going to use car as it is next week then il 6 speed it for next mapping session along with new actuator

So to clarify on ratios

The 6 speed im replacing my type r 5 speed with will have similar acceleration but have a taller 5th and 6th which id say is a no brainer

I have the matching diff (2 in fact) both from wr1s

3.9 i think from what iv seen on the net

The wr1 diff should bolt in easily as my rear end is already r180...i know this because i snapped a shaft and replaced with some 6 speed ones

I cant see why the front sgafts wont fit unless the front hibs are different...which i doubt as they are still 5 x 100

I will confirm what is what when i have done it as it seems this will be the only way to know for sure!

Im sure even if hubs are different i could remove cv joints and make some hybrid shafts!

I know the rears can be dismantled as i have done it...sourcing joints on the other hand is a different matter!
Hybrid shafts won't work the cv is a different size, different bearings etc. If it were that simple I wouldn't be doing a widetrack conversion...

As said, Spline counts are different, you will also probably find this is the same for the hub side of the front.
Old 13 February 2016 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by JGlanzaV
Hybrid shafts won't work the cv is a different size, different bearings etc. If it were that simple I wouldn't be doing a widetrack conversion...

As said, Spline counts are different, you will also probably find this is the same for the hub side of the front.
Scrub the above, I was thinking r160. You might be able to get away with it if they are both r180. But because it is not widetrack are you sure it is 180?

Check the Spline counts etc. I personally would use stub axles and keep your known good shafts, also means you won't get covered in cv grease and no undoing hub nuts etc.


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