All,

I want to monitor the above temps, but don't want to cover the interior with bloody gauges

Is anyone aware of an electronic display which can accept multiple inputs? Even better would be the ability to datalog

Otherwise I can only think of getting the Subaru pod which replaces the dash-box - does anyone do a copy of these without the gauges (what do the OE ones monitor?)? Any suggestions on which gauges are best to fit? Isn't it the Defi's that run a common bus-type connection?

Thanks
Richard

 

richard,
you have mail

 

Me too, I'd like to know as well as I'm running out of space...

F

 

floyd,
yhm

 

Thanks RRH

But I need something capable of having a 3rd party temp. sensor connected to it, or a kit that includes multiple temp sensors suitable for the ranges on intake and EGT sides.

Someone must make such a product - but b*ggered if I can find any info.....maybe limited by my non-existent Japanese, of course

Richard

 

Can I have mail?

David

 

John, sorry can't remember. What Model and MY do you have?

I'm pretty sure my JDM STI7 ECU does not alter boost if timing/fueling does not correct knock. Think the std 220hp ones do tho, as it happened on my old GC8 before.

 

MY00 Euro import. Dowser has the same I believe.

The P1 and STi5/6 also reduce boost in response to knock.

 

The JDM STI 5/6? Am surprised! Thot that the Japanese were against things like that for their home market cars.

 

Seems like a good safety device though?

 

Mine's a Euro my00 - none of that import rubbish for me

Since setting up the lambda and knocklinks in my cupholder I'm a bit addicted to information. I agree on the knocklink (but still like it's 'the sh*t has hit the fan' approach), but lambda I wouldn't want to be without now.....I saw a change after porting my headers (sensor goes leaner/gets hotter quicker)..it's comforting is all.

But the reason I prefer an electronic front end is so that I can monitor multiple inputs as and when the need arises.....and I'm still running with a dawes currently....and a VF23 goes on tomorrow.....and a home-made FMIC is likely next...

Richard

 

You can use what I have used in the past, a K-type thermocouple digital meter that displays in either deg C or F and calculates realtime the temp differences between the sensors. The unit is small enough to sit snugly inside the cupholder as you can see. It has two inputs that you can easily remove and stick a third sensor anytime you want. I had three probes setup at the time, one pre and one post intercooler while the third pre-AFM to pick up the air temp (this demonstrates how quickly a pod filter gets hot and how long it take to cool down as you drive off from extended idle).

 

John, yes its a real good safety device. But I think that concept is lost on the JDM market....

I would like it tho, but I honestly feel it isn't there on the JDM STI7.

 

Richard,

I ordered mine from Jaycar.com.au online and here's the link to the product info page on the same model QM1600

http://jaycarstore.webfactory.com.au/*ws4d-db-query-Show.ws4d?*ws4d-db-query-Show***KHQ-CDH-285285289288290294-1482***-eProducts***-***jaycar(directory)***.ws4d?jaycar/results(S).html

Re the Bosch knock sensor bolt, check out the following link

http://forums.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=72454&referrerid=6366

I did a report on the install and a great place where the the sensor should be mounted. You should also use the same spot, undo the bolt where it's shown in the pic and grab another one that's 10cm longer.

Jan
MSN Messenger - janshim@msn.com
AOL Inst. Mssgr - janshim4141
ICQ - 8894972

 

From a completely different forum:
http://shoptalkforums.com/bbs/NonCGI/Forum3/HTML/000987.html

£20 for the LCD display and then a couple of quid per sender, just rig up a rotary **** to select each sensor output...

Rich
http://www.ricola.co.uk

 

Do you really need intake temp and EGT except when tuning? The EGT would be a bit of a waste of time on mine as it gives no prediction of detonation and stays sensible cool. The intake temperature is useful to get an idea on hot/cold days/track etc, but once you've seen how it behaves why bother?

I only use a boost gauge and AFR, so I can see if a hose flies off and I don't notice (unlikely) or the MAF sensor fails. Even then I could probably do without the boost gauge as it has a fuel cut.

Knocklink is a bit after the event when a JECS ECU can kill so much timing and then drop the wastegate duty cycle to zero if detonation is detected that is not fixed by timing and fuelling.

[Edited by john banks - 6/10/2002 3:25:10 PM]

 

Cheers Jan - John B. mentioning using something similar a while back, but I wasn't aware there were multiple input versions. Do you have make/model of yours (I can make out Digitech!) and any online information?

Richard
PS: keep meaning to ask you - how long does the bolt holding the knock sensor to the block (under i/c) need to be? Moving mine from manifold soon - hoping to re-use bolt. Thanks.

[Edited by dowser - 6/11/2002 6:43:01 AM]