Hi Guys

Treated ourselves to 3 defi gauges from scoobyworkd oil pressure, oil temp and boost look great quality but the instructions are fairly general has any one done the job on a Hawkeye theyre standalone gauges no controller the electrical connection has me a bit confused too as to where's best to connect



Cheers

 

Does the Defi site not help?

Standalone? So each gauge needs it's sensor wiring into it separately? Not seen that on defi before.

What do your instructions say about the wires at the rear of each gauge, ie: colour and where to?

 

He's got the racer gauges they are standalone units. No controller.

Sensor plugs into the back of the gauge.

Power harness plugs into the gauge

Power harness wired into stereo loom as per wiring diagram.

 

Yes that's it racer gauges all independent so there's 4 electrical wires on each gauge
orange IGN ignition
Red +B 12v battery
White. ILM illumination 12v
Black. grD. Earth

Plus the sensor connector in each case

So you think we can use the stereo to connect to ?

 

That is how mine is wired up, taps into the stereo loom

 

cheers. Are all four feeds available from the stereo then ? Should I identify them with a meter and then seeing what runs when I switch on ignition and or lights etc

 

Get yourself one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-125...daMYGUuqFC-i2A

Use it to test which wire is which.

The red must go to a feed which is live all the time, even when ignition is off. Preferably via an inline blade fuse. So direct to battery is good, or rear of the hazards.

The orange goes to one which is only live when ignition is on second click, NOT first click. (ie: just before it turns against the spring to start the car). So probably NOT the stereo.

White goes to any feed which is live when sidelights are on.

And black goes to a decent earth.

With the above tester, it's possible to clip it to a decent earth, or a wire going back to battery earth, then use the point to pierce the insulation in wires you think might be the ones you want. THEN you operate the relevant switch, ignition, lights etc, to check that the feed ISN'T live when the ign, or lights, are off.
They are sometimes available from decent carshops, but avoid the plasticky ones with no real pointed end: you cannot pierce insulation and they are clumsy.

HTH

 

If you are installing a triple gauge pod on the top of the dash, where the original LCD clock was, it's easiest to make all your power connections at the clock wiring plug - everything connection you need is there - permenant and ignition switched 12v+, Earth, sidelight dimmer.

 

Thanks. Looks like it's clock and/or stereo then no need to go further or into the engine bay. Guess I should be able to identify which is which feed with a meter
Cheers guys