joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Subaru Impreza Turbo Idle Control Valve V5 & V6


To fit a brand new one, do you simpy disconnect the black electrical connector, undo the two bolts (and fit the new one in the reverse order)?

Is that all you have to do?

Shane

iTrader: (6)

Yep, that's all I did with mine. Obviously make sure the ignition is off but other than that it's a simple swap.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Cheers.

Did you bother replacing the thick o-ring seal, too?

Were your symptoms low/erratic, almost dying, idle? Did the replacement cure it? Did you replace with a brand new OEM unit... Or a used OEM one?

STI -V4

I had similar issue on my sti5 ended up being the MAF. Have you tried cleaning the ICV. Can play up when the cars been stood a while and a good blast normally sorts it out.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Car is driven at least 11 miles, Mon-Fri, every week.

Yes, the valve was thoroughly cleaned by RCM: Idle was perfect, rock solid, up until when the whether turned a lot milder - in about April.

Since then though, it's been playing up, as mentioned above.

Olly did say, because I'm MAP-based (Simtek, no MAF), that the idle can drift/go out of tune, so to speak. But don't fancy the expense of another remap, just to fix erratic idle.

Shane

iTrader: (6)

I picked up an entire inlet manifold with injectors, throttle body etc for £60 rather than risk a Chinese copy or pay £120+ for a new one. Mine would run fine until there was heat soak under the bonnet i.e. after sitting in traffic or left idling while waiting for my boy to come out of school then it would stall at junctions. Second hand one seems to have fixed it. I refused the old o ring after the replacement I ordered was too thick.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Cheers. I've ordered a new o-ring... And a used OEM valve, in alleged perfect working order, for 18 quid.

I'll check the thickness of o-ring, and if the new one is too thick, I'll bin it (then I'll just use the best condition of the two used ones).

Shane

iTrader: (6)

Bargain, I phoned Jap Performance Parts in Crawley and they wanted £60 for a used part.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

How do you clean them?

I guess you liberally spray carb cleaner into it, hang it up somewhere suitable, and let it drip-dry for c.24hrs?

veerinder9

iTrader: (1)

When my icv went i was looking around and saw checked an oem brand new from icp which was £350+!! So i checked on ebay amd saw brand new ones for £15. Took the punt and it's been perfect!

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

That's exactly what I've done, too (see post #7).

Just waiting for it to be delivered.

veerinder9

iTrader: (1)

No no you havn't lol. I bought a brand new aftermarket non genuine one for £15 of ebay lol

One like this in link below

Look at this on eBay but this one is £25ish

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112055367356

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Oops sorry, I misread your post.

I was thinking of getting one of those non-OEM ones, but assumed they would be ****e.

Is that one in your post the precise one you bought? (There are lots from different sellers).

veerinder9

iTrader: (1)

Tbh mate i honestly think they probs from same supplier. I'm not sure if it's same seller. It's been almost a year now mate. Touch wood it's been perfectly fine

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

I'll see how this second-hand OEM one gets on. If no luck, then I'll get one of those.

I can suffer the 30 odd quid 'speculative spending' in trying to sort it.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Fitted the replacement 2nd hand OEM valve. Started car, and it wouldn't catch - had to hold throttle down a tiny bit to make it catch/keep engine from stalling. As soon as let off throttle, engine cut out. Tried this a few times, but ultimately wouldn't run. Pungent reek of over-fueling too.

Now, I've read in comments to online IACV self-help vids that the ECU has to relearn the stepper motor positions for an 'alien' IACV(?) If so, how do you do this if the engine won't catch/dies, in the first place?!

Plus, to complicate things further, I'm on a Simtek (Mk.2) ECU, and not the OEM one.

Shane

iTrader: (6)

Afraid I plugged mine in and away it went with no problems at all, I'm on a standard ecu but I don't see as it should make any difference. What happens if you put the old one back in?

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Aha, you've pre-empted me... I did exactly that, straight after.

And good news - it appeared the idle was back to normal. Okay, so this was on a warm engine last night, almost up to operating temp.

So I'm gonna go out in it now, to see if it's still good. Fingers crossed......

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Good news. Back to normal.

Idle sits anywhere between 700-825rpm and is stable. And this, with electrical loads i.e. heater fan, radio and sidelights on (my usual modus operandi). Without anything switched on, idle is around 850-900.

The only thing it does, IIRC, which isn't 'normal', is that when you're slowing right down to a stop and depress the clutch, then the rpms momentarily dip right down to 500-600, before immediately recovering to normal idle. (It 'feels' like it will stall, but actually doesn't).

Strange though, that just simply removing and replacing the IACV - without cleaning it - has restored the idle.

Ho hum, I'm not complaining, though.


https://youtu.be/RnRtXRoU2DY

https://youtu.be/kk9nsHir4xQ

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

...Oh yeah, and that aftermarket black O-ring was indeed too thick. So reused my original orange-brown OEM one - It still seemed in good condition.

JGlanzaV

iTrader: (3)

It sounds like it could do with the map altering.

Mine did the same thing when slowing for junctions etc the iacv wouldn't catch the revs before it stalled. Martyn solved it by doing something in the map.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Yeah that's what RCM's Olly said (post #5).

Did they just attend to the off-boost/low-load/idle cels of the map? Or did you 'have' to have a full 'power remap' in the process? And the associated cost?

JGlanzaV

iTrader: (3)

Something like that would just be a tweak not a full remap.... depending on who you use I suppose! I know mine was just tweaked.