mechanic and 1 man garage by trade. just been operated on but clutch on Fozzy needs repacing as I'll use it as a runabout for 6 months before breaking.

Have someone in to do it. Have a feeling may not be doing it right.

What't the procedure on re-installing the throwout bearing and fork on a my99 Forester Turbo S. Surely you put the bearing on the input shaft, install the fork "on" the throwout bearing and then install the box as a whole, not try and press the fork on the bearing AFTER you've installed the box. Guy now has bearing "clicked" into pressure plate, box installed and is trying to get the fork on from there, does that make sense? I don't like to tell people I pay what to do unless I'm sure. Anything US pre 90's and I'm your guy, anything European pre 80's I'm your guy. This thing, not having turned a bolt my self, I need someone to tell me.

Am I right? Very frustrating not being the guy turning the wrenches but I can't for 6 months or so. Can't or Doc says I'm not allowed to lift more than 5kg's or exert that much pressure. Bugger.

Looking forward to hearing what the correct procedure would be.

The old clutch disc was warn down to the rivets. New "used" one is 1.7mm thicker. Just needs 6 months of driving, then she gets pulled apart. Need to know how to reassemble proplerly. Not buying the "pressure plate is too tired for this thicker clutch and as a result the throwout bearing can't seat the fork properly there no room" theory...


cheers

 

Your man is correct,bearing onto the plate,gearbox in and clutch fork and pin last.

 

Cheers for that. I hate to question an otherwise obviously capable guy but not being able see for myself is frustrating.

The fork.can bit hit into place but with a little force to and fro pops out of position. Thoughts on as to why? Worn out pressure plate? Any remedies other than a new one?

Cheers

 

so it's in. although I do thing the play, forward and back, on the throwout bearing in the pressure plate is excessive. Both in the origional set removed and the brand new one installed yesterday.

The throwout bearing clips into the pressure plate and is retained by a C clip. Once in place it can move back and forth a good 1 cm if not a little more. Is this "normal"?

As a result the clutch fork has some back and forth play that also seems excessive.

It does function fine though but there is still an issue. The first 3 to 4cm's of travel on my cluthc pedal are very easy, not dangling like free play, just minimal resistance, then a lot heavier and the clutch disengages and bites right at the floor. It's entirely too deep.

The obvious conclusion is the slave cilinder. But it was only dismounted and no hydraulics touched. I don't know when the last time was the fluid was changed but could it be that the new pressure plate requires more pressure and thusly a fault in the hydralics previously not noticeable (only drove the car 100km's with burnt clutch, got it like that) are now coming to light?

I don't want to tear into thins thing further than I have too.


In any case I don't want to throw parts at it and pay someone to install them. Hope someone can tell me if that amount of play on the throwout is normal and if/what is the most likely culprit on the excessive bite depth of the clutch pedal now. I alos hypothosize the PO adjusted the length of the MC actuator to the pedal. Any stock length on these?


Being a mechanic unable to work on my own car.... quite frrustrating~!

 

everything is in.


I still think the play the fork has back and forth from firewall to motor is excessive. not in comparison to another Subaru as I never work on them but in a general sense. But it works. Kind of. next problem:

first drive or after it's sat a bit the clutch operates fine. after a few uses, even after the first, it starts to grab deeper and deeper untill it's not operable.

I have to pull the pedal back up manually a few times to create pressure.

If I baby it, it wil function but far from well/ it gets juddery and very hard to select a gear as teh bite point becomes so far down the pedal travel and the pedal gets stuck. If I get on it the bite point goes to the the firewall and seems to get worse quicker than if I take it slow.

I've ran it up to 5k slowly and slowly depressed the clutch and the pedal and bite point sink to the firewall. So that made no difference, as in: it's not the "spririted" manner in which you'd be shifting at those RPM. But RPM can't be related unless the pressure needed from the hydraulics increases with RPM but that would be news to me.

How much play front to back is "normal" on the fork/throwoutbearing?

I've flushed my clutch master and slave. no air there. fluid was very dirty though. Which one is your money on? pulled the slave's pin and boot. dry. no evidence of leakage anywhere and no fluid loss.



cheers