Roughly speaking.......how much would it cost to achieve 450-500bhp on a blob wagon, and all the work carried out by a tuner?

Something I'm considering for next year but obviously cost dependant.

I reckon the 6speed sti gearbox would be a big chunk of that but a definite must according to everything I've read on here. As far as I'm aware the 5speed box isn't much use for 350+ builds.

Cheers

 

15k

 

Wowzers

I suppose it'll boil down to whether I want to really keep the wagon and have a good spec wagon or get rid and buy a STI that's been built......I'm sure I seen one for 17k that had a fair bit of power.

What we talking, fully forged or stroker kit for that kind of money? Possibly even the 2.5 route, would be some build for 15k though surely,great spec. Not even including brakes and suspension. Another 2-3k??

 

Its always cheaper to buy one already done....

Easiest way to go fast is a classic. You need at least 100hp more in a newage to set similar times on the strip as a classic.

You could go half assed and people have run STi 8 blocks at 400+hp, but its not advisable.

You can have a 500hp build relatively cheap, but it will be a cheap build. It wont drive as nicely as a well specced engine and build. Depends how serious you are about it.

15k is middle of the road second hand or cheaper new components. You can easily double for that for a good build with top quality parts.

Oh and it wont be reliable if you actually use it for what its designed for, you want super car performance, allow for super car running costs. https://www.scoobynet.com/projects-4...sic-scoob.html

 

What power was your classic running?

But do you think 15k would be a reliable build? Nearer the time I'd obviously have a chat with the likes of Andy Forrest or similar but if I'm passionate enough about keeping the wagon then I'll more than likely go down that route......or some route of upping the power. I want reliability though so the thought of pushing the limits on the std internals doesn't tickle my fancy.

 

And the rest.....SJ.

 

Mine is mid 500s.

15k would be for a whole build.

You can do a 2.1 stroker on an open deck or semi closed deck block for 4k. But that is a basic stroker engine and youll be putting basic valve train etc on it.

You can make a better, faster car (with equal or less power) and make it more drivable by spending on valve train, cams etc. More boost sooner and revving for longer is key to going fast, but the costs will start increasing alot if doing head work

Then you need to stop it, fuel it, corner with it and all the other associated bits and peices.

450 is a cheaper and more realistic target which would require less work....

 

Like i said, you can do it cheap, and it will give the pub figures.

It will drive like a dog, and not be reliable but he can say he has 500hp....

Or you can do it properly....

 

Is 15k ish doing it properly though? I feckin hope so

 

I dunno mate , mines done on the cheap, doesn't even do 500bhp and has shown a lot of very "fancy builds" a clean pair of heels on a few occasions this year.

For 15k I'd be expecting something very nice personally. Maybe I have low expectations lol

Mine is a very basic build and in all honesty I quite like it that way, keeps it all a bit more disposable shall we say

 

Yours is hardly basic Joe.... How many other basic buolds use Alcons and KW/Exe-TC suspension with syvecs.... Id say your build is higher end than mine for sure, maybe not the engine (I dont know the spec of your new one?) But everything else is for sure....

15k is a budget build imo.

 

Upgrade brakes and suspension first dive into engine last that's my plan

 

I'd budgeted around 18k, engine, turbo, manifold, exhaust system, injectors, parallel fuel rails, intercooler, ecu, mapping, 6 speed conversion, Clutch, brakes, suspension and all the things you don't expect or forget about, ended up more like 22k . .but we'll worth it in the end

 

What power is yours putting out bud

 

Yeah I guess. Brakes suspension and Ecu are nice bits on mine, but engine is mega basic, literally as basic as it gets

 

You got a build thread? Will be worth reading

 

As JGlanzaV said if you can buy one already built it will be less expensive then getting one built,that is unless you plan building it yourself as labour cost can add up into the thousands depending on who you get to do the work.If you are seriously looking to go ahead with a proper build make sure you find out all charges including vat for all the parts and labour aggred before any work has started or you might have a nervous break down when the final bill arrives,any company that cannot offer that move on.If 15k sounds to high for you don't even bother starting or you wont be able to finish it without selling a kidney....SJ.

 

Take your 15k buy a spec C for 10/11k spend the rest on brakes, suspension and a remap and you will be as fast as most of the 450 500bho cars on this forum, at least in the real world anyway. If I were to do it for a fast road/light track car, that's what I'd be doing knowing what I know now.
Using it for competition purposes is completely different

 

THIS!,But Joe believe me when I say a 500 bhp Subaru is nothing to be sniffed at in the right hands on the road or track "in the real world".SJ.

 

You need to speak to Alyn from ASperformance, his advice is second to non and he's always happy to help.

 

Agreed,Alyn of ASPerformance is a very good starting place for parts or builds\advice etc.....SJ.

 

Not yet, ive been retrieving and indexing pics then I'll get one sorted.

Engine build as below:

2.1 Ej207, 2.5 79mm crank, mahle 2618 pistons, manley conrods, 14mm headstuds
V6 STI Heads
SC46/Blouch billet turbo ceramic coated
Grimmspeed TMIC & Splitter
Grimmspeed Lightweight Crank Pulley
Grimmspeed 3port Boost Control
Grimmspeed 8mm Phenolic spacers
Grimmspeed Turbo Heatsheild ceramic coated
RCM 1000cc topfeed injectors running parallel
RCM FPR
RCM GT spec unequal length headers ceramic coated
RCM 3" downpipe and full system ceramic coated
RCM WRC intake pipe
K&N Filter
RCM oil catch can
RCM Baffled Sump and Plate
RCM 340lph fuel pump
Syvecs 6pnp ECU + Bluetooth module

Other bits and bobs, AP 6 Pot kit, front and rear ARB, anti lift kit, 2 clutches, rear 180 hubs for 6 spd conversion, stub axles etc etc

1st mapping session after 1000 mile run in. Managed a healthy 384hp and 330ft/lb.

2nd mapping session at 3000 miles achieved 442bhp and 390ft/lb.

 

2.1 sc46 stayed with a TMIC and managed 442bhp/390ftlb 1.8 bar @ 4100 rpm

 

Who mapped it bud

 

Mark from TDRacing in Warwick

Here's a clip from the first mapping session,

 

Bet that flys

 

Like a proverbial scalded cat

 

i'm sure the highly tuned cars are great but for the cost are you not better buying some thing already done ? or the jdm is it called the spec c ? and yes more power is not always that much faster on an already fast car

 

such a nice spec! why didn't you go FMIC however? surely easier power gains albeit with a little more lag? (feel free to correct me)

 

Thanks, main reason is I have a V6 STi Limited Wagon, 167/500. So I didn't want to be butchering the front end for a front mount, hence all the ceramic coating to keep temps down. I don't like the look of them anyway, plus it gives me a bit of a sleeper look

I'm getting 1 bar at 3600 and 1.8 bar at 4100 rpm, Scoobyclinc rate sc46 at 460hp I'm getting 442hp so I'm quite happy with it as it is, all the hassle and ugliness of FMIC isn't worth 18hp in my opinion . .everyone has their own wants and needs from their build, all my boxes are ticked. . .apart from the meth one . . .