Engine Running in
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: North Devon
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I know that ideas on the way an engine is run in can be very controversial
i was sent this link and have gone through it although a lot of it does make sense ! But i thought worth getting some opinions of people on here if nothing else it is interesting and food for thought !See what you think any feedback would be appreciated its worth a look ! Even though he talks mainly about motorcycle engines, in theory should be the same for all modern engines ! Thanks
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
i was sent this link and have gone through it although a lot of it does make sense ! But i thought worth getting some opinions of people on here if nothing else it is interesting and food for thought !See what you think any feedback would be appreciated its worth a look ! Even though he talks mainly about motorcycle engines, in theory should be the same for all modern engines ! Thanks
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
#3
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
![Default](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
First start up on cheap semi, allow to run for 15mins or so, drop oil and filter, fill with millers running in oil, run for around 50 miles of carefully driving with some light boost occasionally and not revving to high, drop oil and filter, fill with a synthetic of your choice (millers nanodrive in my case) and good to go
#4
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Middx / Herts / Bucks / Essex
Posts: 3,420
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
1 Post
![Default](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
on my engine build they did the first 50 miles and then filled up with a mineral oil.
next oil change was at 500 with mineral oil again.
then at 1000 miles semi synthetic oil as its good to get some actual residue on the components or whatever...
the whole time not going above 4k rpm or 0.5bar boost.
remap from 1000 miles
then after another 3000 miles use fully synthetic there on after.
next oil change was at 500 with mineral oil again.
then at 1000 miles semi synthetic oil as its good to get some actual residue on the components or whatever...
the whole time not going above 4k rpm or 0.5bar boost.
remap from 1000 miles
then after another 3000 miles use fully synthetic there on after.
#5
![Default](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
First start up on cheap semi, allow to run for 15mins or so, drop oil and filter, fill with millers running in oil, run for around 50 miles of carefully driving with some light boost occasionally and not revving to high, drop oil and filter, fill with a synthetic of your choice (millers nanodrive in my case) and good to go
Trending Topics
#10
#11
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Pinching one out
Posts: 561
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
As said then, wow good luck with that one.
Sarcasm on,
Comparing a race engine with a road engine is a very worth while thing, especially since typically they do less than 1000 miles before going bang.
sarcasm off.
Sarcasm on,
Comparing a race engine with a road engine is a very worth while thing, especially since typically they do less than 1000 miles before going bang.
sarcasm off.
#12
![Default](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Not been a problem with all the engines I've built and mapped myself over the past 15 years, including the current low 12 second one
#13
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Pinching one out
Posts: 561
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Without wanting to offend, in the grand scheme 12's isn't exactly special when it comes to drag performance, 10's or 9's would be more to crow about.
I know you like to do alot of the engineering yourself, which is a credit to you, but given your not even over 400bhp and the advice of 500/1000 miles running in comes from tuners who run engines upwards of 700+ bhp and run 7, 8 and 9 second quarters, plus many other disciplines beyond just a road car, then i suspect they have alot more knowledge on the subject that you do.
I know you like to do alot of the engineering yourself, which is a credit to you, but given your not even over 400bhp and the advice of 500/1000 miles running in comes from tuners who run engines upwards of 700+ bhp and run 7, 8 and 9 second quarters, plus many other disciplines beyond just a road car, then i suspect they have alot more knowledge on the subject that you do.
#14
Scooby Regular
![Default](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Most high spec drag engines get rebuilt regularly,
The highest spec ones only last one run :O
Sure the IOM car was done in hours,
May be wrong but sure they quoted 30 hours use.
The highest spec ones only last one run :O
Sure the IOM car was done in hours,
May be wrong but sure they quoted 30 hours use.
#17
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Pinching one out
Posts: 561
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#18
![Default](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You guys need to open your eyes. Millions of cars out there, driven normally from the get go, some harder than others. First oil change at 10,000 miles or even as much as 20,000. Running something in suggests it's wearing out rather quickly!
#19
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
![Default](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Running in is just bedding oil rings in, driving around doing a thousand miles on mineral oil is plain stupid as it will potentially wear the bearings.
It should be allowed to boost and rev in moderation not driving around in high gears or going up and down the motorway in 6th gear.
How long someone runs in for is there choice but if the rings aren't bedded in after 150 to 200 miles of driving on uk roads they never will be
It should be allowed to boost and rev in moderation not driving around in high gears or going up and down the motorway in 6th gear.
How long someone runs in for is there choice but if the rings aren't bedded in after 150 to 200 miles of driving on uk roads they never will be
#20
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Enginetuner.co.uk Plymouth Dyno Dynamics RR Engine machining and building EcuTek SimTek mapping
Posts: 3,662
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.scoobynet.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
We take a bit of an old fashioned view to "Running in"
The purpose of the exercise is to rub the rings up and down the bore to wear off the little valleys left in the surface after honing. Initially, the risk is of overheating the rings due to the extra friction imparted by the slightly rough bore surface. If this is done well, the resulting finish will be more likely to end up as an optimum, ideal for an engine that lies on its side. An engine not well run in is more likely to suffer from oil pooling and smoky start ups if nothing else. We also use a cheap mineral oil to start with.
There is another side benefit. If you adopt the "Running in" mindset, you are more likely to appreciate the engineering involved in your new build, rather than teararsing off up the road before the bandages are off. By the time you've got the 1000 miles on I like to suggest, you've dealt with any remaining bugs after you've had it all to bits, you've probably gone through the list we left you to deal with (For a common example) and by the time you come to map it, everything is tickedy boo..
Yes, you can "Run in" an engine faster if you want to, by running in fourth gear instead of fifth (Etc) and getting in more "Rub" for your mileage. On race cars I tend to "Push and shift" keeping the revs going up and down boosting in between while I'm out running on trade plates!
But then again, what's the all fired up rush? I hate to think of some of you guys on your wedding nights, as in steady on chaps, she isn't going anywhere...
The purpose of the exercise is to rub the rings up and down the bore to wear off the little valleys left in the surface after honing. Initially, the risk is of overheating the rings due to the extra friction imparted by the slightly rough bore surface. If this is done well, the resulting finish will be more likely to end up as an optimum, ideal for an engine that lies on its side. An engine not well run in is more likely to suffer from oil pooling and smoky start ups if nothing else. We also use a cheap mineral oil to start with.
There is another side benefit. If you adopt the "Running in" mindset, you are more likely to appreciate the engineering involved in your new build, rather than teararsing off up the road before the bandages are off. By the time you've got the 1000 miles on I like to suggest, you've dealt with any remaining bugs after you've had it all to bits, you've probably gone through the list we left you to deal with (For a common example) and by the time you come to map it, everything is tickedy boo..
Yes, you can "Run in" an engine faster if you want to, by running in fourth gear instead of fifth (Etc) and getting in more "Rub" for your mileage. On race cars I tend to "Push and shift" keeping the revs going up and down boosting in between while I'm out running on trade plates!
But then again, what's the all fired up rush? I hate to think of some of you guys on your wedding nights, as in steady on chaps, she isn't going anywhere...