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Old 04 December 2016, 09:40 PM
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WR1 WOZA
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Default Engine Running in

I know that ideas on the way an engine is run in can be very controversial
i was sent this link and have gone through it although a lot of it does make sense ! But i thought worth getting some opinions of people on here if nothing else it is interesting and food for thought !See what you think any feedback would be appreciated its worth a look ! Even though he talks mainly about motorcycle engines, in theory should be the same for all modern engines ! Thanks

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Old 04 December 2016, 10:00 PM
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ditchmyster
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Had a similar conversation on a thread a wee while back, all the cars I've know that were given death from the get go always went way better than those that had a gentle run in, I learned that lesson about 30yrs ago.
Old 04 December 2016, 11:02 PM
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First start up on cheap semi, allow to run for 15mins or so, drop oil and filter, fill with millers running in oil, run for around 50 miles of carefully driving with some light boost occasionally and not revving to high, drop oil and filter, fill with a synthetic of your choice (millers nanodrive in my case) and good to go
Old 06 December 2016, 01:40 PM
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on my engine build they did the first 50 miles and then filled up with a mineral oil.

next oil change was at 500 with mineral oil again.

then at 1000 miles semi synthetic oil as its good to get some actual residue on the components or whatever...

the whole time not going above 4k rpm or 0.5bar boost.

remap from 1000 miles

then after another 3000 miles use fully synthetic there on after.
Old 06 December 2016, 03:45 PM
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boosted
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Originally Posted by ditchmyster
Had a similar conversation on a thread a wee while back, all the cars I've know that were given death from the get go always went way better than those that had a gentle run in, I learned that lesson about 30yrs ago.
Originally Posted by gazney101
First start up on cheap semi, allow to run for 15mins or so, drop oil and filter, fill with millers running in oil, run for around 50 miles of carefully driving with some light boost occasionally and not revving to high, drop oil and filter, fill with a synthetic of your choice (millers nanodrive in my case) and good to go
Pretty much this. Running in not required. Do you think big spec drag cars do a thousand miles run in after every rebuild?! No
Old 06 December 2016, 03:53 PM
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So your all gona just strap it and go? lmao, good luck with that hahahaha
Old 06 December 2016, 04:03 PM
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boosted
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Originally Posted by On-the-bog
So your all gona just strap it and go? lmao, good luck with that hahahaha
Strap?

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Old 06 December 2016, 04:04 PM
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boosted
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Also what part of the engine are we running in here?!?
Old 06 December 2016, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by boosted
Strap?
was refering to 'strap' it to a dyno

Or just drive off, which ever
Old 06 December 2016, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by On-the-bog
was refering to 'strap' it to a dyno

Or just drive off, which ever
Yes, once you have done a flush and filter change that's exactly what to do
Old 06 December 2016, 04:11 PM
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As said then, wow good luck with that one.

Sarcasm on,

Comparing a race engine with a road engine is a very worth while thing, especially since typically they do less than 1000 miles before going bang.

sarcasm off.
Old 06 December 2016, 04:13 PM
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boosted
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Originally Posted by On-the-bog
As said then, wow good luck with that one.

Sarcasm on,

Comparing a race engine with a road engine is a very worth while thing, especially since typically they do less than 1000 miles before going bang.

sarcasm off.
Not been a problem with all the engines I've built and mapped myself over the past 15 years, including the current low 12 second one
Old 06 December 2016, 04:23 PM
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Without wanting to offend, in the grand scheme 12's isn't exactly special when it comes to drag performance, 10's or 9's would be more to crow about.

I know you like to do alot of the engineering yourself, which is a credit to you, but given your not even over 400bhp and the advice of 500/1000 miles running in comes from tuners who run engines upwards of 700+ bhp and run 7, 8 and 9 second quarters, plus many other disciplines beyond just a road car, then i suspect they have alot more knowledge on the subject that you do.
Old 06 December 2016, 04:32 PM
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Most high spec drag engines get rebuilt regularly,

The highest spec ones only last one run :O

Sure the IOM car was done in hours,

May be wrong but sure they quoted 30 hours use.
Old 06 December 2016, 04:38 PM
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400 Miles lolol,

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Old 06 December 2016, 04:47 PM
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I recall two 205GTI's.

One was given death from 0 miles, the other was "run in".

The death from 0 was always faster and lasted as long.
Old 06 December 2016, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by matt-c
I recall two 205GTI's.

One was given death from 0 miles, the other was "run in".

The death from 0 was always faster and lasted as long.
very different engine, and no two engines are the same. Minor difference in tollerance can have a huge affect.
Old 06 December 2016, 05:53 PM
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You guys need to open your eyes. Millions of cars out there, driven normally from the get go, some harder than others. First oil change at 10,000 miles or even as much as 20,000. Running something in suggests it's wearing out rather quickly!
Old 06 December 2016, 07:20 PM
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Running in is just bedding oil rings in, driving around doing a thousand miles on mineral oil is plain stupid as it will potentially wear the bearings.
It should be allowed to boost and rev in moderation not driving around in high gears or going up and down the motorway in 6th gear.
How long someone runs in for is there choice but if the rings aren't bedded in after 150 to 200 miles of driving on uk roads they never will be
Old 09 December 2016, 10:25 AM
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Alan Jeffery
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We take a bit of an old fashioned view to "Running in"
The purpose of the exercise is to rub the rings up and down the bore to wear off the little valleys left in the surface after honing. Initially, the risk is of overheating the rings due to the extra friction imparted by the slightly rough bore surface. If this is done well, the resulting finish will be more likely to end up as an optimum, ideal for an engine that lies on its side. An engine not well run in is more likely to suffer from oil pooling and smoky start ups if nothing else. We also use a cheap mineral oil to start with.
There is another side benefit. If you adopt the "Running in" mindset, you are more likely to appreciate the engineering involved in your new build, rather than teararsing off up the road before the bandages are off. By the time you've got the 1000 miles on I like to suggest, you've dealt with any remaining bugs after you've had it all to bits, you've probably gone through the list we left you to deal with (For a common example) and by the time you come to map it, everything is tickedy boo..
Yes, you can "Run in" an engine faster if you want to, by running in fourth gear instead of fifth (Etc) and getting in more "Rub" for your mileage. On race cars I tend to "Push and shift" keeping the revs going up and down boosting in between while I'm out running on trade plates!
But then again, what's the all fired up rush? I hate to think of some of you guys on your wedding nights, as in steady on chaps, she isn't going anywhere...
Old 09 December 2016, 12:56 PM
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^^^ QED (IMO)




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