2016 wrx sti, time for more
#1
2016 wrx sti, time for more
Hi all nice to be back and got the bug again, so I've owned her for 3 years and currently just running de cat and map tweek and it's fine but not enough compared to my old 04 sti,
Spoke to Neil at slowboy who has done all work on old and new. I'm aiming for 380-400ish, I'm unsure on doing the pistons dreading the Ringland failure issue tho if keeping to circa 400 do I have to?
So I'm thinking
Injectors
Caik
Gaskets and studs
Turbo probably as vf 48 is good to about 370???
( any suggestions on this.... Md321t??)
Any of you guys got similar or can suggest another route, and no I'm not selling it and buying a 2.0!!
Spoke to Neil at slowboy who has done all work on old and new. I'm aiming for 380-400ish, I'm unsure on doing the pistons dreading the Ringland failure issue tho if keeping to circa 400 do I have to?
So I'm thinking
Injectors
Caik
Gaskets and studs
Turbo probably as vf 48 is good to about 370???
( any suggestions on this.... Md321t??)
Any of you guys got similar or can suggest another route, and no I'm not selling it and buying a 2.0!!
Last edited by 4evascoob; 21 July 2019 at 09:48 AM. Reason: Missed out a part
#2
At that power level your car probably wouldnt survive the mapping process, get it built from the ground up if your chasing power. The engine can fail at standard power levels. Neil @ slowboy should know all this.
#5
The Subaru looks like it's doing 100mph when its stood still.
A golf r looks like a golf 1.6 gl regardless of whether its moving or not.
Get the engine built right with the closed deck inserts and your good for 500bhp
#7
You may be able to push the current turbo to 370-380 so that will give you what you want with good spool.
A Scoobyclinic SC 38 turbo would be another option.
Running higher boost to reach these levels will obviously put your standard block at risk but it may be ok if you don’t abuse it and change with quality fluids every 3-5 k.
Personally I would go for it then forge if you need to.
plenty of options here http://tdracing.co.uk/project/tdr-forged-short-engines/
Good to see another new shape owner looking to stick with the Subaru brand.
Had mine coming up to a year now and I’ve only seen 3 or 4 on uk roads In that time.
Siv
A Scoobyclinic SC 38 turbo would be another option.
Running higher boost to reach these levels will obviously put your standard block at risk but it may be ok if you don’t abuse it and change with quality fluids every 3-5 k.
Personally I would go for it then forge if you need to.
plenty of options here http://tdracing.co.uk/project/tdr-forged-short-engines/
Good to see another new shape owner looking to stick with the Subaru brand.
Had mine coming up to a year now and I’ve only seen 3 or 4 on uk roads In that time.
Siv
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#9
Basically exactly what Neil said mate and I'm sure he knows what he's talking about being he does it for a living. He said it should be OK for 400 or under definite forge for above which starts at 5-6k,!!, he said do the injectors, caik, gaskets and studs re map and stay around 390 with sensible boost and if it goes bang then do the rest. Also says he's had some with issues at 30,000 miles and some are still good at 100,000 +, I trust him he had my old 04 Sti at 400 and it had done 130,000 miles and used as it should be with no issues at all. I don't intend tracking it just the occasional fast road, it's 3 years old and has only done 18,000 miles.
#11
Will look into it! Will forging help much really or does the block need closing? Without sounding a tit what does the 2.35 entail? Is it basically fitting another thicker sleeve and then different pistons?
#12
Spend a few quid on it though and you can turn your “lada” into something a lot more exclusive than your run of the mill A45, RS3 or Golf R.
Plenty of sheep out there to follow
#16
IMO you would have a reliable 400 bhp / 400 lbs car dependant on your supporting modifications.
Would make for a fantastic road car.
The 2.35 is a stroker kit and probably overkill for your power goals.
Siv
#19
He will probably end up being a serial killer or something.............
Just dont react too much and I'm sure he will get bored until the next time.
#20
Basically exactly what Neil said mate and I'm sure he knows what he's talking about being he does it for a living. He said it should be OK for 400 or under definite forge for above which starts at 5-6k,!!, he said do the injectors, caik, gaskets and studs re map and stay around 390 with sensible boost and if it goes bang then do the rest. Also says he's had some with issues at 30,000 miles and some are still good at 100,000 +, I trust him he had my old 04 Sti at 400 and it had done 130,000 miles and used as it should be with no issues at all. I don't intend tracking it just the occasional fast road, it's 3 years old and has only done 18,000 miles.
If I were to do it all over again it would be running straight to forged, Less inconvenience, less costs of breaking the engine open for the sakes of studs and gaskets to run 400.
#21
#22
Trouble is around the 390-400 marker one dodgy batch of fuel will kill that engine off. Been there done that got the t shirt I was only sat at 380bhp at the time, It blew the Ringland's out and did the head gaskets in at the same time at less than 20k on standard stock internals. Engine was better suited to being forged and the liners fitted with a CDB insert or pins to try and stop the tops of the bore splitting. It survived at 460-500 bhp for 50,000 miles before I sold it.
If I were to do it all over again it would be running straight to forged, Less inconvenience, less costs of breaking the engine open for the sakes of studs and gaskets to run 400.
If I were to do it all over again it would be running straight to forged, Less inconvenience, less costs of breaking the engine open for the sakes of studs and gaskets to run 400.
Also is it just the pistons that need forging or rods and crank?
460-500!! On the crappy 2.5! 😉Lol
#23
Thankyou very much, most helpful mate, can the liners be done by most reputable tuners or only a handful of people, I'm guessing there machined to exact engines rather than a generic kit?
Also is it just the pistons that need forging or rods and crank?
460-500!! On the crappy 2.5! 😉Lol
Also is it just the pistons that need forging or rods and crank?
460-500!! On the crappy 2.5! 😉Lol
#25
#26
Yes correct same as plenty of other hard used 2.0 engines failed. The engine actually still ran quite well and ended up overseas as a stop gap engine. Didnt use any oil which was strange. My 2.0 sti engine failed @ 355 bhp with 60k on the clock-and some people say they are the best subaru engine ever built.....go figure.
I took a chance with that blob, it only cost me 7k and I sold it for nearly 6.5k after a year and half.
I took a chance with that blob, it only cost me 7k and I sold it for nearly 6.5k after a year and half.
#28
I dont get your point.
The 2.5 engine from factory is a flawed design PROVEN by a successful lawsuit in the u.s.
Numerous hg and ringland failures.
Yes it's ok once its had a 5k rebuild but not as a factory spec engine.
The 2.0 has not got any design flaws they can fail if mistreated but mostly they are fine.
Was yours not a second hand engine from a breakers and mapped by dynamite??
This is two indications as to why it popped.
The 2.5 engine from factory is a flawed design PROVEN by a successful lawsuit in the u.s.
Numerous hg and ringland failures.
Yes it's ok once its had a 5k rebuild but not as a factory spec engine.
The 2.0 has not got any design flaws they can fail if mistreated but mostly they are fine.
Was yours not a second hand engine from a breakers and mapped by dynamite??
This is two indications as to why it popped.
#29
The only thing I can see that has “Failed” is Scoobynet.
Its a shame people want to come on here and spoil it for the genuine enthusiasts who just want to share a passion for a particular make of car.
I don’t understand what motivates these people, maybe I just don’t want to know.
I for one couldn’t give a flying **** if my engines fails.
Siv
Its a shame people want to come on here and spoil it for the genuine enthusiasts who just want to share a passion for a particular make of car.
I don’t understand what motivates these people, maybe I just don’t want to know.
I for one couldn’t give a flying **** if my engines fails.
Siv
#30
So sensible hat on,
Forge pistons
Forged rods?
Does the crank need replacing?
Inserts / cdb or pinned?
Injectors
Caik
Arp or alike studs and gasket
Re map existing map and wait til more monies and replace turbo when engine is ready to take it?
Sound a plan?
Forge pistons
Forged rods?
Does the crank need replacing?
Inserts / cdb or pinned?
Injectors
Caik
Arp or alike studs and gasket
Re map existing map and wait til more monies and replace turbo when engine is ready to take it?
Sound a plan?