Has anyone done it?
Seems to be a trend in the US.

To me seems a bit overpriced, wich completly turns me off trying to importo from the US to my country.

 

https://www.fbtuning.co.uk/cylinder-4-cooling-mod/.SJ.

 

That guy in the video, ''I've made it like a tool, to help you install it in the back of the engine!' Lol.

That seems so expensive for a bit if pipe. £80 from fb.
How comes?

 

The guy on the video, Dom, has done a lot of research and has come up with the idea, so I can understand why he is asking that amount.
But all the "copies" that have since come up, I don't understand why they charge that.

But this seems like a to do mod and I don't see any tuner in Europe doing this.

 

Saw this myself on nasioc the other week, changes the direction of flow and apparently evens out temps for that cylinder, he's backed it up with quite a few tests and readings, contemplated it myself but £80 is extreme, it's £30 in parts at best, probably closer to £20 if buying in bulk then there's all the arguments that it's pointless although his readings do show a more even temp a cross the cylinders, I'd be willing to try it for £30-40 but not at that price
Saw a post that says it's basically bypassing the radiator and pushing the coolant back through the block instead, don't know how true that is as I stopped investigating after realising it's marked up by about 150%

 

I'd say it's more like 10£ at most in parts if you buy directly from a vendor and not a consumer store.
The diameter seems really important, because if you go to large, then you go from 0 flow to more flow than the left side. I'll try to build a kit for me, I do track my car and air temp can get to 40º where I'm from.

 

hmm, this is an interesting idea! Has there been any testing done with temp gauges etc to see if it works?

 

Yes, there are videos on you tube, it seems to work to some extent.

 

Even though it's "expensive for what it is" it would consume quite a bit of my time to make one and i would probably not be as confident in it as this part.

Compared to most mods it's cheap, I'm getting one. I will then remove the per cyclinder compensations i have that reduce the ignition timing on 4 and 2.

 

Yeah, there are tones of info on nasioc and on yotube.

 

My understanding of this cooling mod is its more targeted for the 2.5 blocks to help prevent ring land failure by adding another water passage way for better cooling,I would need to research abit more to see how much of a benefit that it really is especially on different engine blocks EJ models 2.0/2.2 etc...SJ.

 

Less than an hour is not quite a bit of time, it's a metal T-piece, 4 clips, length of hose, plug and adaptor, you can likely get most of them at b&q. The only obsticle is not knowing the diameter of the adaptor. The T-piece and hose are clearly the same size as the one you cut, the galley plug is a standard size so the only unknown is the size of the adaptor that goes into the galley plug and if you can drain your radiator or add a water temp sensor to your top rad hose you can knock this up easy.

​​It's the mark up that's the biggest issue imo, it's priced at twice if not three times it's value when all it is is off the shelf parts put together and sold on

 

I agree that it is well overpriced for the parts that are involved but saying that!...after further researching it i think their onto something as their is no pathway for the coolant to circulate through the LH cylinder head,so adding one could potentially aid the cooling of the engine..SJ.

 

If it works it's amazing that no one has come up with such a simple solution before. Someone as respected as FB Tuning presumably wouldn't be offering it if it didn't work.

 

Hmm, if it works it is quite an ingenious device, and it could just be that not enough people have the required knowledge / experience to make the connection. The inventor mentions cooling vs reliability in small block chevy engines, the position of the knock sensor (and what that actually means in terms of detecting knock), why subaru (maybe) designed the block/mapping as they did, heat transfer in combustion chambers etc. I think the set of people who know all these things, and have seen enough melted no4 pistons to make the connection, is quite small

I like the theory behind it myself, and I might copy the idea to my own engine as well - only question is how big to make the passageway... The coolant hoses on the turbo side are 12mm ID, however the banjo bolts that feed the turbo (and the one in the block too) have what looks like 2x roughly 3mm round holes for coolant to pass through, so something similar _may_ be appropriate on the LH cylinder head too. Having said that, we don't know how the water flow is inside the block anyway, so it might just be that the 2x3mm is too small/large - too many variables. On the other hand, the video mentions that if you have it too big, you move the issue of hot pistons elsewhere, so staying smaller than optimal might be safer than going too big.

 

ICP bringing out a lower cost version.

 

Estimated price?

 

Fuji Racing are bringing out their own kit soon which looks good.

Original Domtune version £105
FB Tuning = £80 + £10 delivery
Fuji Racing = £40.

Know which one I'm waiting for.

I have just fitted Fuji Racing braided brake hoses to my car and they are fantastic quality. Helped by the fact they were made by Goodridge.

For £40 I would definitely do this mod.

 

For £40, i think we will all be doing it, ICP may just have cornered the market.

 

I can bare £40 I guess, 100% markup is better than 150% lol

 

THIS!.SJ.

 

Is equalizing, but raising all egts, better than than one hotter cylinder, where the knock sensor is?

From what I've read:

Here's the OEM part: 21170AA020
https://www.toronto-subaru-club.com/...mod-21170AA020
70N/m torque??

The question seems to be - reducing the fitting ID to a specific size? The Dom kit has already assessed this, to their satisfaction.

 

This is my only hesitation, too. The knock sensor is presumably located there with the vague logic that if cylinder 4 is ok, the other three are probably ok. If you change the temperature spread without changing the knock sensor location are you asking for trouble (or at the very least lowering the safety margin provided by the knock sensor)?

Genuine question - happy to be convinced either way.

 

ICP seem to have gone quiet on their solution for this. VIP motorsport have some on back order from the US if anyone wants one.

 

I think this is the key for this. Better to go small and have some cooling, than to go big and decompensate the other side.

Regarding the coolnate flow:

 

I've seen a company advertise this mod for £50 so hopefully ICP will do it for £30 😉

 

I wonder what the thread size in the block is?

 

Me too.

Also, as the modification increases right-hand head egts, does that significantly raise the water temp, enough to effect cooling of the turbo?

 

M20 x 1.5

 

I don't think that's a major cause for concern - most turbos survive just fine when run with just the oil lines connected (i.e. no water cooling at all).