Any advice on binding brakes, please 🙏🏻
#1
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Any advice on binding brakes, please 🙏🏻
I would be so grateful if someone with more know-how on scoobys can help me debug this problem.
I'm having issue with binding and overheating brakes of 2002 Subaru Legacy H6 auto.
After short 10min drive at 30-40mph discs are ticking with the heat.
For context..
2 years ago I was getting squeaking on the front brakes, so I replaced stock rotors with drilled and grooved and at same time also replaced front left caliper because of brake binding.
I noticed after changing rotors when you brake hard, you get a humming nose which can feel through the wheel. Never thought much of it, I thought it was due to the grooved disc (They were flat before)
This made no difference to the squeak.
But a few weeks later the squeaking disappeared, which makes me think it was just uneven brake dust buildup on the disc.
Been fine since until a few weeks back I didn't drive car for several weeks and back brakes started binding and overheating.
My local garage did a full brake service, took off regreased everything etc put back together.
This fixed the rear brakes, which are no longer binding.
But on drive home the front brakes immediatley started binding, after being fine before, which seems weird as they hadn't been touched.
When you reach 40-50mph you get the humming and vibration then at high speeds (60-90mph) you get an intermittent wheel shaking.
This suggests to me the disc is warped.
But I hear actual warped discs are very rare and it's more likely to be not running true, or surface of disc not even in some way.
I've checked all lugnuts are tightened with even pressure using torquewrench to 89
The garage is suggesting new calipers on front.
I must admit I'm loathe to replace them again after just 2 years.
I worry the garage isn't diagnosing properly, and just want to replace bits one by one till it goes away.
If needed I'll replace rotors and pads and calipers.
But will be hard to find as it's a jap import.
So wanted a 2nd opinion first in case there's something I'm missing?
Anyone had this issue?
Any thoughts on the cause?
Anyone know where I can find rotors and discs?
Thanks so much
I'm having issue with binding and overheating brakes of 2002 Subaru Legacy H6 auto.
After short 10min drive at 30-40mph discs are ticking with the heat.
For context..
2 years ago I was getting squeaking on the front brakes, so I replaced stock rotors with drilled and grooved and at same time also replaced front left caliper because of brake binding.
I noticed after changing rotors when you brake hard, you get a humming nose which can feel through the wheel. Never thought much of it, I thought it was due to the grooved disc (They were flat before)
This made no difference to the squeak.
But a few weeks later the squeaking disappeared, which makes me think it was just uneven brake dust buildup on the disc.
Been fine since until a few weeks back I didn't drive car for several weeks and back brakes started binding and overheating.
My local garage did a full brake service, took off regreased everything etc put back together.
This fixed the rear brakes, which are no longer binding.
But on drive home the front brakes immediatley started binding, after being fine before, which seems weird as they hadn't been touched.
When you reach 40-50mph you get the humming and vibration then at high speeds (60-90mph) you get an intermittent wheel shaking.
This suggests to me the disc is warped.
But I hear actual warped discs are very rare and it's more likely to be not running true, or surface of disc not even in some way.
I've checked all lugnuts are tightened with even pressure using torquewrench to 89
The garage is suggesting new calipers on front.
I must admit I'm loathe to replace them again after just 2 years.
I worry the garage isn't diagnosing properly, and just want to replace bits one by one till it goes away.
If needed I'll replace rotors and pads and calipers.
But will be hard to find as it's a jap import.
So wanted a 2nd opinion first in case there's something I'm missing?
Anyone had this issue?
Any thoughts on the cause?
Anyone know where I can find rotors and discs?
Thanks so much
#2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (1)
It's either pistons not retracting or the pads getting stuck in the caliper.
For the pistons, you'd need to remove the caliper, inspect the pistons to see is any are stuck. Also inspect seaIs for deterioration. So, remove the pistons, check for rust/scoring etc. Replace any damaged pistons and fit new seals.
If it's the pads, inspect if they are free to move back and forwards in the caliper. If not, remove the pads and determine whether there is corrosion to the caliper stopping the pads from moving freely or whether the pads themselves are too big/wrong shape to move freely (very common on non OEM pads). Whichever is at fault, take a Dremel (or similar) to the offending item and grind away just enough material until the pads move freely in the caliper.
Inspect/replace pad retaining springs/guides/pins and any other hardware whilst you are at it.
For the pistons, you'd need to remove the caliper, inspect the pistons to see is any are stuck. Also inspect seaIs for deterioration. So, remove the pistons, check for rust/scoring etc. Replace any damaged pistons and fit new seals.
If it's the pads, inspect if they are free to move back and forwards in the caliper. If not, remove the pads and determine whether there is corrosion to the caliper stopping the pads from moving freely or whether the pads themselves are too big/wrong shape to move freely (very common on non OEM pads). Whichever is at fault, take a Dremel (or similar) to the offending item and grind away just enough material until the pads move freely in the caliper.
Inspect/replace pad retaining springs/guides/pins and any other hardware whilst you are at it.
#3
Scooby Regular
on that style of car they have 'sliding 2pot' calipers and it is the sliding mechanism tat is far more likely to be of issue than anything else.....
common mistake is people using copper grease to lubricate the steel slider pins which simply attacks the rubber boots / seals and effectively jams the slider due to expansion
common mistake is people using copper grease to lubricate the steel slider pins which simply attacks the rubber boots / seals and effectively jams the slider due to expansion
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